Zebralight SC600Fd III Plus - XHP50

[recDNA]

XP-L would be more practical. vF is too high in current model. Waste of power. and heat to drive it.

 

[samgab]

XP-L would be more practical. vF is too high in current model. Waste of power. and heat to drive it.

Trouble is, if you're after high CRI, the only XP-L emitters with >90 CRI are in the 3000K or warmer temp. (Aside: It would be good if Cree would get more into not just high CRI (R1-R8), but also high throughout the rest of the colour test spectrum too, like R9 and R13, and a high CQS score at each test point also, like Yuji LED's seem to be doing).

 

[Connor]

Trouble is, if you're after high CRI, the only XP-L emitters with >90 CRI are in the 3000K or warmer temp. (Aside: It would be good if Cree would get more into not just high CRI (R1-R8), but also high throughout the rest of the colour test spectrum too, like R9 and R13, and a high CQS score at each test point also, like Yuji LED's seem to be doing).

According to maukka the XHP50 in the Fd III Plus reaches a very nice CQS Qa: 91

 

[samgab]

According to maukka the XHP50 in the Fd III Plus reaches a very nice CQS Qa: 91

Yup, that was kind of my point It was suggested that the XP-L would be a better, more efficient emitter for this flashlight, which is true on the efficiency score, but sadly - at the moment at least - you can't get an XP-L which has a colour temp in the neutral white ~5000K range, AND a good CRI (current gen XP-L's are about 70-75 CRI in that temp range), AND also good across the rest of the test spectrum, like R9 (red), R12 (blue), and R13 (human skin tone).
I'm pretty happy with the colour rendering of my Fd III+, but I don't have all the awesome fancy gear that Maukka has to test it.

Check out R9 and R12 on the SC600 Fd III+ (Not awful, but not great either.):

-source: Maukka

 

[recDNA]

How about HI CRI XM-L2? I hate the xhp-50. Between the green tint, low efficiency, and need for a filtered lens it just isn't meant for a small flashlight.

 

[roadkill1109]

For current owners of this light, any issues encountered?

 

[Tachead]

XP-L would be more practical. vF is too high in current model. Waste of power. and heat to drive it.

You always bash the XHP's but, you don't seem to understand the benefits of them.

The XP-L is a much older generation emitter and although it has a slightly lower efficiency(in lumens per watt), it has less then half the maximum output of the XHP50. The 6V XHP50 produces more then double the lumens of the XP-L at the same drive current and the 12V version produces more then double the output of the XP-L at half the drive current. So, even though the XHP50 has a slightly lower efficiency and uses a boost driver(which also causes an efficiency loss) it still seams to get higher runtimes at the same output compared to the older generation emitters like the XM-L2, XP-L, etc.

If ZL would have used an XP-L in the Plus they never would have achieved anywhere near the output they did with the XHP50, it would have likely gotten shorter runtimes on all all modes, and it would have only had 75 CRI nominal instead of 93-95 because that is the highest CRI 5000K XP-L available. I don't see how that would be more practical?

Now, there is a newer version of the XP-L available(the XP-L2) and there is a 3-step 5000K 90+ CRI variant but, it still gets nowhere near the maximum output of the XHP50 and if they used it the Plus it would likely have been 300-500 lumens lower in output and still got shorter runtimes on all modes.

I am pretty sure ZL knows what they are doing and I suggest you trust them to know what is more practical for their lights as they have a lot more knowledge and experience in designing flashlights then you do.

 

[recDNA]

I'm not going to trust the judgement of companies that put out green tinted flashlights. I don't like Surefire for the same reason. I prefer a clear lens and a little throw and a flashlight that doesn't have to step down so fast even if it means less output. I'm not crazy about pogo pin dents either.

That said I should tell you I love my sc62w and my sc32w. I just don't think XHP is a good choice for a small flashlight.

 

[Tachead]

How about HI CRI XM-L2? I hate the xhp-50. Between the green tint, low efficiency, and need for a filtered lens it just isn't meant for a small flashlight.

The only XM-L2 available with a reasonably tight tint tolerance is the XM-L2 Easywhite and it only comes in a 80+ CRI version in the 5000K flavour. And, it too would not produce anywhere near the output of the XHP50, nor would it get as good of runtimes, and it would still need a frosted lens to smooth out beam artifacts.

Not all XHP50's are green, it is the standard tint lottery as usual. The problem is, ZL greatly greatly increased our chances of getting a green tinted sample because the 5000K version of the XHP50 they chose has about a 90% rate of green tinted(above the black body radiation line) emitters. If they would have went with the 4500K version it would have decreased the chance of getting a green one a lot.

The XHP50 was meant for many applications and works fine for small flashlights. It just doesn't offer the traits you want. I suggest you look for models using the XHP35 if you want a clear lens high output flashlight as its 4 dies are so close together they don't produce any beam artifacts with a clear lens.

The fact of the matter is that the XHP35, 50, and 70 are the only emitters currently available that offer this kind of output with a reasonable CRI and descent tint tolerances. Until some new emitters hit the market and we convince a company to spend the extra money and time to acquire high CRI variations with a tight tint tolerance(or to start cherry picking them for tint) this is all we are going to get. The only other option is to go the custom route and try to acquire your own emitters of choice but, you just won't find drivers with the efficiency, size, and sophistication that ZL offers anywhere else.

 

[Tachead]

I'm not going to trust the judgement of companies that put out green tinted flashlights. I don't like Surefire for the same reason. I prefer a clear lens and a little throw and a flashlight that doesn't have to step down so fast even if it means less output. I'm not crazy about pogo pin dents either.

That said I should tell you I love my sc62w and my sc32w. I just don't think XHP is a good choice for a small flashlight.

Many flashlight companies put out lights with green tinted emitters. Most of the time it is a lottery and you may get one or not depending on your luck. At least ZL tries to get us the best emitters they can find. Not many other companies, if any, actively try and release lights that come with high CRI and low MacAdam Ellipse emitters in them.

ZL offers what you describe, its called the SC600w MKIII HI. As for step downs or thermal regulation just dont use H1 and H2 if you want constant flat regulated output. It is still nice to have the higher outputs available if you need them though.

I am with you on the pogo pins. I don't like them either and think they were a poor design decision on ZL's part. I have been against them since they were announced and still haven't bought any of ZL's lights with them. But, I have been tempted because I like a lot of the other features of the lights and know you can't have everything you want without going custom and even then you are limited.

The problem is, the XHP series of emitters are really the only choice when you want this kind of output and runtimes. without them we would just have a MKII in a MKIII body without all the improvements in runtime and output.

 

[CallMeDave]

The pogo pins haven't left any discernible marks on my Sony or Panasonic batteries. No scratching, no denting. The tiny pin springs do their job just fine.

This light is very bright.
This light is very floody.
This light has very nice tint.

 

[snowlover91]

For current owners of this light, any issues encountered?

Mine has been great, use it every night just about. Great tint, plenty of power and I love the floody beam and I've had mine for over a year.

It's interesting how ZL changed the pogo design on the SC63w. The pogo pins are on the circuit board and then the spring is in the tail cap. Not sure why they did this though, interesting to see what they do in the near future.

 

[recDNA]

It is nonsense to say XM-L2 would require a frosted lens. Many small flashlights use it. Even with op reflector it would be nicer. I've already said I don't need as much output however without the frosted lens an XM-L2 Easy White may look brighter. The XP-L HI look yellow to me. You guys love your XHP. That's fine. I hope the next version is one I can love.

 

[Tachead]

It is nonsense to say XM-L2 would require a frosted lens. Many small flashlights use it. Even with op reflector it would be nicer. I've already said I don't need as much output however without the frosted lens an XM-L2 Easy White may look brighter. The XP-L HI look yellow to me. You guys love your XHP. That's fine. I hope the next version is one I can love.

The XM-L2 EasyWhite is a quad die emitter and the dies are spaced even further apart then the XHP50. Just like the XHP50, without a frosted lens, you will get beam artifacts of the four dies that most users will not like.

The XP-L HI can look yellow, it can also look pink, green, blue, purple, orange, etc. It depends on many factors including the particular samples tint, CCT, the reflector design and geometry, the type of anti-reflective coatings used on the lens, etc. You seem to think that a particular kind of emitter will always looks a certain way but, that is not the case. I strongly suggest you dont right off one kind of emitter just because the sample or samples you have seen arent to your liking. Most emitters are available in thousands of different variations and there is often large differences in tint and CCT even between samples from the exact same bin.

 

[geokite]

Got mine a couple days ago, mainly to replace a SC600 III L2 that I use on my commuter bike. In 4Hz mode, it dropped from 4.2V to 3.89V after about 30 min of riding (morning air temp of about 50, ride home air temp of 70). That is a larger drop than the SC600 used previously.

Someone here may already know, but I asked ZL if the pid works for the strobe also. I tried the 4Hz just at room temp, no wind, for 30 min. Battery voltage drop was more (don't remember how much more), and I could not hold the light it was so hot.

Love the tint, no green. Knurling is more aggressive than all other ZLs I have (19, but only a couple have knurling).

Gone is the sub lumen mode(s) that was only useful for finding the light in the dark. The lowest level now is my go to level to not wake the wife. I never used those O.OX lumen levels, but I could see how some might find then useful.

Steve

 

[swan]

Any one measured lumens or candela?

 

[geokite]

Just happened to look at the light at the lowest L2 setting. I have never noticed it before in any of my lights, but the pwm is very noticeable. No offense, but someone on this forum is going to crap a brick when they see this. It's like there is a butterfly caught inside!

Steve

 

[TCY]

Just happened to look at the light at the lowest L2 setting. I have never noticed it before in any of my lights, but the pwm is very noticeable. No offense, but someone on this forum is going to crap a brick when they see this. It's like there is a butterfly caught inside!

Steve

Are you talking about the 0.18 one? I just checked myself, but can't see any signs of pwm, seeing through a phone camera (HTC 10) and I don't detect any flickering.

 

[eraursls1984]

Just happened to look at the light at the lowest L2 setting. I have never noticed it before in any of my lights, but the pwm is very noticeable. No offense, but someone on this forum is going to crap a brick when they see this. It's like there is a butterfly caught inside!

Steve

You may have a defective one.

 

[Connor]

Got mine a couple days ago, mainly to replace a SC600 III L2 that I use on my commuter bike. In 4Hz mode, it dropped from 4.2V to 3.89V after about 30 min of riding (morning air temp of about 50, ride home air temp of 70).

The power draw at 1500 lumens/H1 is insane, you would empty a 3500mAh 18650 in about 20 minutes if you could keep the light cold enough, so I guess what you describe is normal. The flickering on L2 however is not, I can't see any pulsing on my SC600Fd III plus and I consider myself to be quite sensitive to this.