Thoughts on the E1B.

Any Cal.

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Baby Doc, the E1B uses a clicky. Turn on for high, and off-on again for low. No twisty action ever required.
 

superflytnt

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Unfortunately, the E1B clip will not fit right. The E1L is shorter than the E1B. The end of the clip would ride on the E1L's tail cap and interfere with twisting it to lock the light on in either of its two modes.

These lights don't click on. You press the light for momentary on; press further and get second mode without the button locking in; if you release the button the light goes off in either mode. You lock the light in the mode you wish by tightening the tailcap. Unless you only use momentary, you won't want an E1B clip rubbing on the L1 tailcap.





The good doc is just confusing the E1L with the L1. E1L is same length as E1B and also uses a clicky. L1 is longer and uses the twist switch.
 
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Any Cal.

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...confusing the E1L with the L1. E1L is same length as E1B and also...

What do you mean there is a flashlight lingo? Anybody knows the difference between an E1L, an L1, and an E1B. And they all know that they only take R123s unless you put the KX2 head on the E1 body, in which case they can use RCR123s or 16340s, unless of course you are running the KX2 head on the old E2E body where you can run 17670s or 2 R123s.:sick2: Bunch a nuts I tell ya, all yall.:D Have a good night all.:twothumbs
 

Stainz

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It's not just the lingo... it's the temptation!

I bought a Fenix 4 in 1 kit six months ago - that P2D with a Premium Q5 LED - and 180L on a single cell - is nice. I love my 6PLs - really well made and handy - just a bit large for the pocket. Most of the time, I keep the P2D off of 'Turbo' because I just don't need the extra light. Good to have it, of course. It rides in it's sheath - on my belt or in a pocket. Now enters the E1B...

You guys have almost convinced me that I need it. Of course, would it just duplicate my use of the P2D? That light gets ~30 hr from low (12L) vs the E1B's 35 hr (5L); ~2hr (107L) vs the E1B's 1+ hr (80L). Tough decision. I have fondled the E1B at a B&M near here - perhaps it is time for a return trip - and 'A - B' the two. They have LEO S-F prices as their 'regular' prices, so it is enticing... but, is it necessary?? Opinions/comparisons of the two would be appreciated (Fenix P2D Premium & S-F E1B). Thanks!

Stainz
 

JNewell

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I was taking a fresh look at the numbers for the E1L, E1B and L1 this morning. I still don't really like the UI for the Backup (compared to the L1), but the balance (it's always a compromise, right?) between output and runtime is very nicely struck with the E1B. Buy 'em now before the prices goes through the roof. I can pick one up from a B&M dealer for a very attractive price and I may buy another before the price goes up, even though I don't think the UI is ideal. It's a very good and useful light.
 
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superflytnt

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What do you mean there is a flashlight lingo? Anybody knows the difference between an E1L, an L1, and an E1B. And they all know that they only take R123s unless you put the KX2 head on the E1 body, in which case they can use RCR123s or 16340s, unless of course you are running the KX2 head on the old E2E body where you can run 17670s or 2 R123s.:sick2: Bunch a nuts I tell ya, all yall.:D Have a good night all.:twothumbs


Actually L'd OL :laughing:
 

Any Cal.

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Opinions/comparisons of the two would be appreciated (Fenix P2D Premium & S-F E1B)

The E1B will throw much better, but will light up a smaller spot than the P2D. Indoors, I think you are better off with the P2D, or in the woods where you can't see that far anyway. The E1B really is a little spotlight, which is important for spotting things in the distance, or REALLY being seen. The spot is pretty intense. If you don't need the intensity for anything, I prefer the Fenix UI. I think it would also be more pocketable because of the smaller head. IMO, YMMV.
 

LumenMan

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I know that this has been stated before, but using a beam diffuser on the E1B really makes this light much more usable for indoor use :thumbsup:
 

lumenal

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The E1B will throw much better, but will light up a smaller spot than the P2D. Indoors, I think you are better off with the P2D, or in the woods where you can't see that far anyway. The E1B really is a little spotlight, which is important for spotting things in the distance, or REALLY being seen. The spot is pretty intense.

The E1B is designed for law enforcement, where blinding the bad guy is common place.

If you need a general purpose, move around the campsite light, stick with the P2D.
 

Rossymeister

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I know that this has been stated before, but using a beam diffuser on the E1B really makes this light much more usable for indoor use :thumbsup:

I totally agree with that.

That is one of the main reasons that the E1B is one of my favorite lights.
 

lightsandknives

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I totally agree with that.

That is one of the main reasons that the E1B is one of my favorite lights.

I agree. I've only had mine a week or so, but it's been in my shorts cargo pocket every day. I toss in the F04 as well just in case I need a really floody beam for something but I love the throw on the E1B. Its really the only combination I've found that gives me the best of both worlds in a really pocket (cargo pocket) friendly form. I really like the Z68 tailcap on mine as it really makes it easier to grip!
 

Rossymeister

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I agree. I've only had mine a week or so, but it's been in my shorts cargo pocket every day. I toss in the F04 as well just in case I need a really floody beam for something but I love the throw on the E1B. Its really the only combination I've found that gives me the best of both worlds in a really pocket (cargo pocket) friendly form. I really like the Z68 tailcap on mine as it really makes it easier to grip!

Yeah, the Z68 is pretty nice on an E1B. I especially like the tailstanding ability of the light with this combo.

There are quite a bit of options for the E-series Surefire lights.
 

Monocrom

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The E1B is designed for law enforcement, where blinding the bad guy is common place.

80 lumens, even out the front lumens, are not going to blind someone for any significant length of time. Perhaps in a rural backroad with no ambient light, you might make a suspect look away for a second; but that's about it.

Surefire has been promoting the blinding level of output on their lights for awhile now. Including on their 60 lumen E2D inca. (A nice light that I own myself). It's not going to blind an Attacker long enough to bring the strike bezel into play. A bump of 20 extra lumens isn't going to do that either. As a small, unobtrusive, light that plainclothes officers or Detectives dressed in suits can use on the job, it's worthwhile for them.

As for blinding an Attacker.... Yeah; I'm thinking a small can of Pepper spray will work far better than 80 lumens to the face.
 

WadeF

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80 lumens, even out the front lumens, are not going to blind someone for any significant length of time.

The lumens don't have much to do with the amount of blinding power, it's the LUX. You could have 80 lumens of pure flood that wouldn't bother someone all that much, or 80 lumens of pure throw, producing 5,000LUX in the hot spot at 1 meter. My E1B only produces around 3,000LUX at one meter, but others say the newer E1B's are around 5,000LUX at one meter. That should be fairly blinding. For example, a Fenix TK10 rated at 200+ lumens is around 5,000-6,000LUX at one meter.
 

Monocrom

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The lumens don't have much to do with the amount of blinding power, it's the LUX. You could have 80 lumens of pure flood that wouldn't bother someone all that much, or 80 lumens of pure throw, producing 5,000LUX in the hot spot at 1 meter. My E1B only produces around 3,000LUX at one meter, but others say the newer E1B's are around 5,000LUX at one meter. That should be fairly blinding. For example, a Fenix TK10 rated at 200+ lumens is around 5,000-6,000LUX at one meter.

Thanks Wade. :)

Certainly a light geared more for throw than flood will be brighter to the human eye at the same lumens rating. But with so much ambient light out there at night, in any city, I'm still skeptical about the blinding power of a small 1xCR123 light. Something like an SF M6 with the HOLA, oh no doubt.

I wish I could find the thread where a CPFer experimented with various lights, to test out their blinding power. Even with lights that put out over 200 lumens, the results were less than great.
 

Bucky

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The lumens don't have much to do with the amount of blinding power, it's the LUX. You could have 80 lumens of pure flood that wouldn't bother someone all that much, or 80 lumens of pure throw, producing 5,000LUX in the hot spot at 1 meter. My E1B only produces around 3,000LUX at one meter, but others say the newer E1B's are around 5,000LUX at one meter. That should be fairly blinding. For example, a Fenix TK10 rated at 200+ lumens is around 5,000-6,000LUX at one meter.

How new are you talking regarding the "newer" E1Bs? Is there any obvious way for me to tell if I have a "newer" version? Mine was purchased about two months ago.

Thanks, Bucky
 

superflytnt

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80 lumens, even out the front lumens, are not going to blind someone for any significant length of time. Perhaps in a rural backroad with no ambient light, you might make a suspect look away for a second; but that's about it.

Surefire has been promoting the blinding level of output on their lights for awhile now. Including on their 60 lumen E2D inca. (A nice light that I own myself). It's not going to blind an Attacker long enough to bring the strike bezel into play. A bump of 20 extra lumens isn't going to do that either. As a small, unobtrusive, light that plainclothes officers or Detectives dressed in suits can use on the job, it's worthwhile for them.

As for blinding an Attacker.... Yeah; I'm thinking a small can of Pepper spray will work far better than 80 lumens to the face.




Umm, yeah it will. Are you just talking about a quick blast or about holding it on the person. In any dark situation, have a friend (with an E1B or equivalent) hit you with the beam and hold it while "pretend" attacking you. You'll find that you don't see it coming. In a city setting with bright ambient light you might need more output but for the average "streetlight" setting 80L will do pretty well.
 
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