Tough time w/ first purchase

[gpia7r]

Thanks for the abundance of information! I'll be sure to make a decision and follow-up with my impressions!

I did order a Fenix E01, just to hold me over.

As far as buying multiple lights... I'll get around to that when the money starts rolling in. Handling my multi-handgun purchases first :P

Looking at the Quark 123-2... it seems very small compared to some of the other options. Could this be considered a disadvantage?

Edit: Looks like I overestimated all of the lights, actually. I didn't realize how small they were.

For the Eagletac T10LC2, what's the difference between it and the MK2 version ($50 version)? There's a TK11 (non-R2) on Amazon for $65...

 

[Blacksidesniper]

Buy a dozen CR123 lithium primaries to store in the fridge for back-up/emergencies,

Do primary lithium batteries need too be refrigerated? :huh: :ohgeez:


I think the Quark CR-123A-2 would be about the best option you have.

 

[DHart]

Do primary lithium batteries need too be refrigerated? :huh: :ohgeez:


I think the Quark CR-123A-2 would be about the best option you have.

Primaries have a long shelf life and store best when cool. DON'T freeze them, just keep them cool! A fridge is good for this.

I use li-ion rechargeables as my general use cells because I use them and recharge them a lot. I keep lithium primaries strictly for back up/emergency use and store a variety of lithium primaries (CR123s, L91s, L92s) in a sealed ziplock container in the fridge. They will last and be potent, ready for use for many years this way.

 

[gpia7r]

Few other questions in addition to my others above:

When I think of LED Light, I think of cool-white light. Is there a tactical/practical difference or preference between neutral white and cool white? Are they both effective in a self-defense situation? Does either have an advantage over the other?

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Do primary lithium batteries need too be refrigerated? :huh: :ohgeez:


I think the Quark CR-123A-2 would be about the best option you have.

I keep mine in a Pelican case. There is no need for freezing them.

 

[DHart]

There is no need for freezing them.

Correct, don't freeze... but keeping them cool helps prolong the storage life (slows the chemical processes). So storing in a ziplock freezer bag or any sealing plastic container and keeping cool in a fridge is perfect for this.

 

[gpia7r]

Few other questions in addition to my others above:

When I think of LED Light, I think of cool-white light. Is there a tactical/practical difference or preference between neutral white and cool white? Are they both effective in a self-defense situation? Does either have an advantage over the other?

Bumping this question

 

[Moonshadow]

A lot of this really comes down to personal preference. The cool tints are whiter, although some people see them as blue-ish. The neutral or warm tints are more similar to an incandescent light, which some people prefer, but to others look yellow or orange.

If you do a search, you'll find plenty of strong views on both sides. Although the warm tints seem more vocal.

This is such an individual thing that the only real way to find out is to compare them side by side and see which works best for you.

 

[DHart]

Incans look fairly "normal" to most people, but after using cool and neutral LEDs, incans look dramatically warm.

Generally, I can see greater contrast with the cooler tints, but the colors appear somewhat unnatural. Reds and browns especially don't render naturally with cool tints.

With the warm tints, I tend to see less contrast, but the colors appear more natural, especially browns and reds.

For myself the blue-ish tints are the least desireable, though they can create more apparent contrast. I prefer neutral or slightly warm.

 

[Wiggle]

Incans look fairly "normal" to most people, but after using cool and neutral LEDs, incans look dramatically warm.

Generally, I can see greater contrast with the cooler tints, but the colors appear somewhat unnatural. Reds and browns especially don't render naturally with cool tints.

With the warm tints, I tend to see less contrast, but the colors appear more natural, especially browns and reds.

For myself the blue-ish tints are the least desireable, though they can create more apparent contrast. I prefer neutral or slightly warm.

I find I can see more contrast with the warmer tints, check out some of my sig threads for some pics. The cooler tints seem to have more glare but not really an improvement in contrast.

 

[RobertM]

Few other questions in addition to my others above:

When I think of LED Light, I think of cool-white light. Is there a tactical/practical difference or preference between neutral white and cool white? Are they both effective in a self-defense situation? Does either have an advantage over the other?

I would personally go for neutral tint without hesitation. Aside from warm or cool, there is also CRI (color rendering index). Cool white LEDs tend to be fairly low when it comes to color rendering. An incan scores 100/100; IIRC, Cree warm emitters are around 80. Seoul has some P4 LEDs which are 93. If you are going to use the light outdoors, CRI makes a big difference.

You need to give this thread a read:
High CRI and its significance

-Robert

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I would personally go for neutral tint without hesitation. Aside from warm or cool, there is also CRI (color rendering index). Cool white LEDs tend to be fairly low when it comes to color rendering. An incan scores 100/100; IIRC, Cree warm emitters are around 80. Seoul has some P4 LEDs which are 93. If you are going to use the light outdoors, CRI makes a big difference.

You need to give this thread a read:
High CRI and its significance

-Robert

+1!

Very well said! Tint don't matter, this is pure marketing. C.R.I on the other hand, makes a world of difference.

 

[Wiggle]

+1!

Very well said! Tint don't matter, this is pure marketing. C.R.I on the other hand, makes a world of difference.

It's true, CRI is more important in terms differentiating colours, but how many advertisers do you see pushing neutral or warm LEDs?

 

[gpia7r]

Well I'm thinking of it as more of a personal preference. The "actual white" LED looks more appealing to me... and I guess most people would call it a "cool white" or something. I dunno, I just don't want any yellow/orange tint to the light, y'know?

But now I'm seeing more terms.

Cool white, Neutral White, Natural White, Warm White... Eh?

I want white-white. Like, real white. Not yellow-white. Not too cool-white. Just... white? Is that Neutral?

I also feel like I'm starting to narrow my choices down.

Fenix TK10, TK11, Eagletac T10LC2, T100C2 MK2, Quark 123-2 Tactical.

Any other suggestions to further confuse and fluster me? :P

Among these, do you prefer one for an actual defensive and tactical advantage over another?

 

[Wiggle]

I want white-white. Like, real white. Not yellow-white. Not too cool-white. Just... white? Is that Neutral?

Haha, if only we could all agree on what white-white is:faint:

I'm going to say that IMO 5A tint emitters are the closest I've seen, but I can see how someone could see some yellowness or even rosiness there.

I think the first decision you need to make is whether or not you want to go the 18650 route. Those Quarks look nice, but remember they are kind of the FOTM right now (not saying they're not great though) and are not 18650 compatible. You can also get them in the tactical variety which will have a UI similar to the TK10/11 but you can program the 2 mode slots which is pretty cool. And they can take 17670 which won't get you the great runtimes of 18650 but are still a good rechargeable option to save you $$.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

It's true, CRI is more important in terms differentiating colours, but how many advertisers do you see pushing neutral or warm LEDs?

Very few outside of enthusiast-oriented manufacturers, warm tints it's more like a CPF's latest LED craze. Manufacturers are quickly catching up and benefiting from this hype, though.

 

[DHart]

I find I can see more contrast with the warmer tints, check out some of my sig threads for some pics. The cooler tints seem to have more glare but not really an improvement in contrast.

Yes, that can be the case... depends on the objects being illuminated - their color, reflectivity, relative size of the light vs. the object, angle of illumination, etc. There are few hard and fast rules when it comes to the appearance of light. That's why there is little agreement on the choice of tints, beams, etc.

 

[gpia7r]

Haha, if only we could all agree on what white-white is:faint:

I'm going to say that IMO 5A tint emitters are the closest I've seen, but I can see how someone could see some yellowness or even rosiness there.

I think the first decision you need to make is whether or not you want to go the 18650 route. Those Quarks look nice, but remember they are kind of the FOTM right now (not saying they're not great though) and are not 18650 compatible. You can also get them in the tactical variety which will have a UI similar to the TK10/11 but you can program the 2 mode slots which is pretty cool. And they can take 17670 which won't get you the great runtimes of 18650 but are still a good rechargeable option to save you $$.

I don't mind delving into 18650.

Also, the LEFT one is what I consider to be white-white:

So, is that considered neutral, cool, or what? I highly dislike the one on the right.

 

[Wiggle]

I don't mind delving into 18650.

Also, the LEFT one is what I consider to be white-white:


So, is that considered neutral, cool, or what? I highly dislike the one on the right.

You probably won't be a fan of the 5A tint.:sigh: That's actually a good thing for you, it doesn't require you to limit your search or mod something yourself.:poof:
I'd call the left one cool-neutral.

 

[DHart]

As to the "tactical" application... it could be argued that the protruding tailcap boot with forward momentary switch is better for tactical applications since it is so easy to activate, momentarily or constant on.

I think the Quark 123-2 tactical is a superb choice. Powered by a 17670 li-ion. While it doesn't have quite the runtime of an 18650, 17670 still offers a wonderfully long runtime. You can also buy a AA body and a 123 body and put the 123-2 head and tactical (or regular) tailcap on either of those bodies (powered by 14500 in the AA and 16340 in the 123) giving you a lot of options for size/form factor/powering choices.

At present, I have the Q123-2, QAA, and Q123 body, with a Q123-2T neutral on order. With those options, one can mix and mingle regular heads, tactical heads, regular tailcaps, tactical tailcaps, and all three body sizes with 17670, 14500, 16340 (and also AA L91 lithium, AA NiMH Eneloop, or AA alkaline in the AA body and CR123/RCR123 in the 123 body)... this presents an amazing array of form factors, UI, and powering options to choose from. Flashlight lego lovers paradise!

And don't forget Quarks .2 lumen low (fantastic low for those really dark situations where you just want a tiny squeek of light), the incredibly clean, artifact-free beam, and the great throw/wide spill (see it below). There is a lot to like about the Quark line. This is why the Quarks are so incredibly popular. At present, nothing else out there even begins to offer all of these great features combined.

I've racked up some of my lights for easy comparison of beams. It is clear from this that the Quarks also have a relatively neutral tint as compared to a number of other options. I like and enjoy all of my lights, but gotta say, the Quarks are a tough line to beat.