Tough time w/ first purchase

[gpia7r]

Good Afternoon!

Been perusing the forums for a while now, and wanted to sound off here. I'm looking for a new EDC LED light, but I find the sheer amount to choose from a bit intimidating.

There are a number of brands with such subtle differences, yet so many models.

For starters, I've been looking at either the Fenix TK10 or TK11... and from what I've seen, the TK10 has a better spill than the TK11 (which I think I would like more). Anyone here with both a 10 and 11 have opinions on either? I read through the bessiereviews, and there's a nice review for a TK10, but from what I saw, none on the TK11.

Fenix seems to carry a premium price, as well. Are there any other brands/models that you would say are comparable to the Fenix TK10/11, but with a lower price and equal quality?

I appreciate any input, thanks much!

 

[Wiggle]

Something to think about, only the TK11 takes 18650 cells (a very good rechargeable option) which could help you make that decision.

 

[Toaster]

This review has many beamshots that can help answer your question regarding TK10 vs TK11. If you're looking for a similar type of light at a lower price point, I suggest you check out the Eagletac P100C2 and T100C2.

 

[gpia7r]

This review has many beamshots that can help answer your question regarding TK10 vs TK11. If you're looking for a similar type of light at a lower price point, I suggest you check out the Eagletac P100C2 and T100C2.

Actually I did consider the T100C2, and the price is definetly right... but it seems to be more of a hotspot-oriented beam rather than spill/flood. That was the only thing about it that made me shy away from it.

Something to think about, only the TK11 takes 18650 cells (a very good rechargeable option) which could help you make that decision

I see that, but I thought I read somewhere that a rechargable battery somehow lowers the performance of an LED light? Like, it not pushing as much light as a throwaway battery? Am I wrong on that?

Also - I see on Amazon the TK10 and TK11 are both $65... which is odd... Is that a good price for either one, is there a better place to find them if I went that route, and is the R2 version of the TK11 a huge difference from the Q5?

 

[Wiggle]

You're half right, in this light you will see slightly better (or flatter more specifically) with 2 x CR123 but that is more due to driver design than the performance capabilities. The 18650 is capable of quite potent current levels and has excellent capacity that isn't a bottleneck except in hard-driven multi-core lights. With 18650 in this light, the light will not suddenly cut out though, it will be bright almost 2 hours I believe and then gradually taper down. The CR123 will hold constant brightness right til the end, which is both good and bad depending on how you look at it.

18650s need to be respected (as does any Li-Ion) but can save you alot of money in the long run, not to mention you can always start the day with topped off cells if you like.

 

[Arcmay]

A 18650 cell has about the same capacity as two 123A's, but where you run into trouble is with the regulation. Most lights are made to regulate with 123A's, so when you run them on a li-on cell the output curve is not very flat. However, some lights, like the T100C2, will regulate properly on both types of cells.

 

[applevision]

A vote to go with the TK11. 18650s are magic in that they will give you wonderful, guilt-free and essentially no-cost lumens. This way you can use it with reckless abandon!

I also agree with the point that gradual discharge vs. constant brightness then off has pluses and minuses.

For the way I use my TK11 (which is, without a doubt, the most used of all my lights), I really appreciate it getting a bit dimmer instead of suddenly cutting out. It means that you can really deplete the battery in an emergency while still having some light rather than lots of bang and then nothing. Anyway, you can also get the new R2 LED in the TK11 which I think is worth it. :thumbsup:

Oh and :welcome:!

 

[Toaster]

Actually I did consider the T100C2, and the price is definetly right... but it seems to be more of a hotspot-oriented beam rather than spill/flood. That was the only thing about it that made me shy away from it.

The T100C2 MkII is available with an optional OP reflector which will smooth out the beam and bias it a bit towards more flood if that's your thing.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

The EagleTac T100C2 does everything better than the Fenix TK11, and it is cheaper to boot. You just can't get a better light for the money.

 

[gpia7r]

Helpful information, thanks again for the replies.

With your TK11 (and the EagleTac T100C2 for that matter), would you say that it emits enough light to fill a small room? Enough spill, I mean.

In turbo mode, it looks quite powerful... but does it illuminate anything beyond the hotspot very well? Do you still get that solid (even if slightly faint) spill that surrounds the source (tk11)?

Pictures don't show that sort of thing very well. I watched a video by nutnfancy on YouTube reviewing/showing-off the TK10, and it seemed to brighten everything around him, as well as in front of him.

 

[NonSenCe]

waist high, aiming in middle of the wall.. at 2 meters distance to wall my tk11 gets a spill ring from floor to ceiling.. (room is 2meters 40cm high)

generalisation.. aiming to something at 7ft distance you get spill diameter of 7ft and hot spot is about 6inches diameter.

so plenty of light for rooms..even that its a thrower.

for cheaper tk11 i would get the eagletac.

i did carry my tk11 as edc during the winter but as the winter jacket went to closet i realised its too big and heavy to carry. so i went to 1 cell lights like cr123 or mainly AA. as special work or similar light tk11 is ok but as every day carry i personally can manage with smaller ones.

jetbeam proIII m is nice option. (it would give you a chance to use a lower mode..) i found tk11s low mode of 60lm too bright to use close up things.

Lmini 2 with turbo head is one i like too. without the turbo head its my "big" pocket edc nowdays.. for the times i likely need hours of runtime (thats when my d10 and other smaller ones go to backup role or are left home) and the turbo head can make it my warm tint thrower. (also it can be used as total flooder without the bezel.. )
-its 3 mode light available with warm tint led thats nicer outised as they reproduce colors more "naturally" in my mind.

my advice for beginner as first light would be.. get a AA battery light (either 1aa or 2aa) that is well liked in cpf, then when you have it in your use, you will soon know what things you like and what you dont like. what you need and what you dont need. buying few "trainers" pieces help you finally choose the right ones for you. what user interface one likes and dont like.

AA because they are available everywhere, they are safer than li-ion batteries, and still their output WILL suprise a person used to cheap incan or shower head led lights.

thats why something like eagletac p100a2 would be good starting point in my mind.

 

[elliowb]

With 18650 in this light, the light will not suddenly cut out though, it will be bright almost 2 hours I believe and then gradually taper down.

I don't want to hijack your thread gpia7r, however, since this issue was mentioned here, I thought I'd ask.

I have an Eagletac M2X and in this light the 18650s will go from full power to off suddenly. My Milwaukee drill has built-in meter that lets me know the state of the Li-ion battery, how do I do that with 18650s. I have a multi-meter, would I check the voltage? Is there some particular minimum voltage at which the protection circuit cuts it off?

Thanks, -- Bill

 

[Arcmay]

The EagleTac T100C2 does everything better than the Fenix TK11, and it is cheaper to boot. You just can't get a better light for the money.

I agree!!

 

[Norm]

I have a multi-meter, would I check the voltage? Is there some particular minimum voltage at which the protection circuit cuts it off?
Thanks, -- Bill

This is voltage reading on the meter, without load:
4.20v = 100%
4.03v = 76%
3.86v = 52%
3.83v = 42%
3.79v = 30%
3.70v = 11%
3.6?v = 0%

A common rule is to save at least 20% of capacity.

 

[elliowb]

A common rule is to save at least 20% of capacity.

Thanks a lot Norm. I'll plan on recharging when they reach 3.75V.

-- Bill

 

[Rexlion]

gpia7r, welcome. :wave: You might enjoy reading some of the reviews by Selfbuilt (he has a list of his CPF reviews posted at http://www.sliderule.ca/flashlight.htm ) because he includes great beamshots that show the size of the spill in relation to the size of the hotspot. Also you can see the numbers he posts in the comparison tables; the high "throw" numbers correspond to lights with tight spots, and the "max lightbox" numbers will show you how much overall illumination the light produces. A high lightbox number with a lower throw will be a more floody light.

I heartily recommend the MG PLI from Shiningbeam as a very floody light that is incredibly bright on high. It has a MC-E quad die emitter that can put out way more light than the TK10 or TK11. Like, two or three times as much! Ernsanada did a great review of the PLI, with beamshots.

Beyond having a floody beam, most of your choice comes down to what you like in user interface (UI) features. Some lights change brightness with a twist of the head, others with a half-click of the tailswitch, and a few have variable brightness setting and/or programmability. Some of the Nitecores (D10, D20, EX10) turn on and off by your choice of twisting the head or of pushing the silent piston at the tail. The newer Litefluxes use an electronic tailswitch instead of a mechanical one, and the feel is different. Oh, and of course there are the feel of the light in your hand (heavy or light knurling, round or squared) and the esthetic appeal.

If you are a bit on the compulsive side (as I suspect many of us CPFers are), you end up wanting to get a variety of lights to click, shine, admire, and enjoy. I started out looking to replace 3 very old flashlights that went bad (one in each vehicle and one that sits in the kitchen for backyard use). I quickly became convinced of my need for an everyday carry light, then another, then another... now I have several more than I ever anticipated, and I have fun with them all. Especially the PLI and my new Maglite that's modded with a quad die P7 and 18650 battery. Shockingly bright lights! :devil:

 

[DHart]

If I were you, I would buy a Quark 123-2, a couple of AW protected 17670 cells, a charger and never look back. Buy a dozen CR123 lithium primaries to store in the fridge for back-up/emergencies, but use the 17670 as your basic power source. This light will give you more than you would get with the TK11... particularly a verrrrry low low, which many experienced flashaholics have come to recognize as really useful option in a flashlight. The 17670 will give you a very long runtime with the Q123-2 and great output.

For great versatility, buy a AA body ($20) and you can run the head from the 123-2 on the AA body with a 14500. This will give a more pocketable form factor when that is useful to you.

 

[jgraham15]

If I were you, I would buy a Quark 123-2, a couple of AW protected 17670 cells, a charger and never look back. Buy a dozen CR123 lithium primaries to store in the fridge for back-up/emergencies, but use the 17670 as your basic power source. This light will give you more than you would get with the TK11... particularly a verrrrry low low, which many experienced flashaholics have come to recognize as really useful option in a flashlight. The 17670 will give you a very long runtime with the Q123-2 and great output.

For great versatility, buy a AA body ($20) and you can run the head from the 123-2 on the AA body with a 14500. This will give a more pocketable form factor when that is useful to you.

I 100% agree with the Quark 123-2!!!!! Except I would opt for the tactical one. It's just an overall awesome EDC flashlight. 3 of my friends have already bought one since seeing mine and they are not members of this forum or flashaholics at all they just fell in love with this light. :twothumbs

 

[strinq]

Bro, if you want spill over hotspot, for now nothing beats the Eagletac T10LC2. A very floody beam with pretty crazy output.
It uses both CR123 and 18650 batteries too.
Out the front lumens of 265!
Disadvantage is the shorter runtime of course.
In comparison the TK11 outputs about 200 lumens and the T100 outputs about 190 lumens.

The quark also only outputs about 200 lumens.

 

[Egsise]

is the R2 version of the TK11 a huge difference from the Q5?

Yes, R2 is fully regulated with 18650, Q5 is not.