I tried several times to figure out how to get the ring off of the SR3.
...puzzled over the piece, turning it over and over like an idiot, even tried pouring in alchohol to see if it seeped through to reveal any cracks or some hidden threads.
Each time, I would give up and put it aside. This time, it was time to get rough
First, the sleeve where the logo is printed was trimmed down.
Hopefully, the ring would just slide off.
No luck.
Next, I dug deeper where the sleeve touches the ring with a parting tool.
The thing on the right is a live centre.
The tool tip broke through without going further than expected, revealing some hidden space.
Could this be a mangled C-ring? The SF U2 uses one. So was this it? No, it was just a big burr
Looking closer, what do I see but the familiar pink goo. So there are threads somewhere!
After applying nail polish remover and waiting 5 minutes or so for it to soften the thread locker, back to the vise and belt wrench.
Voila!
There is a tiny pin keeping the ring from turning more than approx 350degrees (the red stuff is not grease but a generous ammount of thread locker.)..
..and a plunger to get the click for each level.
Conclusion: Taking apart the head of a SR3 is not difficult once you know where the pieces come apart.
- Note the position of the ring, and how the magnets are placed (there are 4 magnets, and 4 dummies) before taking apart. You will need to know this when reassembling.
- Use acetone to soften the thread locker. Let it seep in from just below the adjusting ring, and/or from just inside the area which mates with the body. Take a careful look at the above pics. Heating may work too.
-Clamp the head just under the SS bezel, and use a belt wrench where the Nitecore logo is CCW. Careful not to put force on the adjusting ring. Use rubber bands or something similar so as not to ruin the finish.
Hope this helps anyone thinking of modding/relubing, or like me, just curious
...puzzled over the piece, turning it over and over like an idiot, even tried pouring in alchohol to see if it seeped through to reveal any cracks or some hidden threads.
Each time, I would give up and put it aside. This time, it was time to get rough
First, the sleeve where the logo is printed was trimmed down.
Hopefully, the ring would just slide off.
No luck.
Next, I dug deeper where the sleeve touches the ring with a parting tool.
The thing on the right is a live centre.
The tool tip broke through without going further than expected, revealing some hidden space.
Could this be a mangled C-ring? The SF U2 uses one. So was this it? No, it was just a big burr
Looking closer, what do I see but the familiar pink goo. So there are threads somewhere!
After applying nail polish remover and waiting 5 minutes or so for it to soften the thread locker, back to the vise and belt wrench.
Voila!
There is a tiny pin keeping the ring from turning more than approx 350degrees (the red stuff is not grease but a generous ammount of thread locker.)..
..and a plunger to get the click for each level.
Conclusion: Taking apart the head of a SR3 is not difficult once you know where the pieces come apart.
- Note the position of the ring, and how the magnets are placed (there are 4 magnets, and 4 dummies) before taking apart. You will need to know this when reassembling.
- Use acetone to soften the thread locker. Let it seep in from just below the adjusting ring, and/or from just inside the area which mates with the body. Take a careful look at the above pics. Heating may work too.
-Clamp the head just under the SS bezel, and use a belt wrench where the Nitecore logo is CCW. Careful not to put force on the adjusting ring. Use rubber bands or something similar so as not to ruin the finish.
Hope this helps anyone thinking of modding/relubing, or like me, just curious