JetBeam RRT-2 Raptor (R2) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

[Scarbear]

I thought the tailcap design has also changed. But what i see in your pics is the old one.

:thinking:

Olaf

 

[jhc37013]

The tailcap for this new series is the two flanged one showed in this post ( https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3533125#post3533125 ) about the R5 newcomer, wich let the light to tailstand, a nice touch. Thank you Black Kamagong for the early news! :thumbsup:
But in this unit the BOG's people kindly replace it for the old fashioned one showed here with the SS bezel, wich I preferred definitely. :twothumbs
Even being from an older series the tailcap's anodized match perfectly with all the other parts finished this way in the light.

The OP changed it to the older model tailcap he prefers more than the new one.

 

[Scarbear]

Thanks,

i overlooked that

 

[Ecodelosandes]

JHC thank you for your kind comments!

I love my RRT-2 R2 and it's heavy brass slug I think it is a awesome little trademark of the Raptor light's and I don't like it's gone.

I totally agree with you in this regard.
I think you're right and the R2 is still a good balance of specs/built quality. Since i haven't seen it I can't tell about, but I really like the R5.
Finally, is a good thing that Jetbeam has the two series available to personal choices. :thumbsup:

 

[selfbuilt]

Well, the RRT-2 R5 version fell in my hands.:twothumbs

Thanks for the detailed pics and discussion Ecodelosandes - well presented.

The M20-R2 is a good comparator (although I found the throw of the original RRT-2 R2 to be even higher). As is common on XP-G R5 lights, throw is reduced compared to XR-E R2 editions of the same model. I see the SMO reflector is also showing something of the common hotspot "donut-effect", but hopefully the proper OP reflector will smooth that out.

FYI, there are R5 lights that throw as well or better than typical R2 lights (i.e. 4Sevens Maelstrom G5 and the Tiablo A9-R5). But in a head-to-head comparison of the same size light, the XR-Es remain throw-kings. :shrug:

In any case, I find the throw of my Fenix TK12 R5 or Eagletac T20C2-II R5 to be perfectly fine for everyday use. Judging by the pics, I suspect the new RRT-2 R5 is falling into that general camp.

Thanks again for sharing the pics and update!

PS: I've recently updated my 100-yard beamshots to include all the R5-equipped lights mentioned above.

 

[phantom23]

Can you measure diameter of the head? Old XR-E reflector looks wider than new bezel...

Wow, that's really awful. I'm wondering why they switched reflectors because XP-G works really good with old OP (XR-E) reflector - nice throw with no donut hole. Here's my RRT-2 modded with XP-G (R4 3A) and OP reflector (right) compared to Eagle-Tac T10L (left):

As you can see - nice beam and a little bit over 10klux/1m (T10L does about 7klux/1m).

 

[Ecodelosandes]

Can you measure diameter of the head? Old XR-E reflector looks wider than new bezel...

I didn't measure the internal diameter for the bezel :shakehead, sorry about that omission, is really a good topic.

Now i'm not home so, even when i'm carring the Raptor, couldn't take the measure till the next weekend.

BTW, your OP reflector seems to do a really nice work with that setup. :thumbsup: , maybe i'll look for the correct OP for my R5 in the next order, and probably a Raptor R2 too... i'll be in serious problems for sure

 

[Tek3]

Selfbuilt,

Great review, man. I recently added this light to my collection based solely on this review (they should pay you for the business you give companies) and love it. It's a pocketable thrower, as I call it. I do have a question, though. When you compare this light to the Malestrom G5 by 4Sevens, which one has the smoother beam? Those rings and artifacts in the RRT-2 annoys the hell out of me. Lol.

 

[selfbuilt]

When you compare this light to the Malestrom G5 by 4Sevens, which one has the smoother beam? Those rings and artifacts in the RRT-2 annoys the hell out of me. Lol.

No question, the G5 has an incredibly smooth beam (the joys of the XP-G emitter). Much better than any XR-E-equipped "thrower" light like the RRT-2.

However, there have been some complaints around here of a dark centre void in the hotspot of some recent G5 lights (the dread of the XP-G emitter). These are actually quite common on all XP-G lights that use smooth emitters, although I didn't see it on my two early G5 samples. It can be quite variable from one light to the next. :shrug:

 

[PCC]

Sorry for dredging this old thread up from the depths.

How about a 2 X 18650 RRT-2?

The body is from the M2S and it has an extender meant for the M1X to make it fit two 18650s.

 

[peterharvey73]

Looks so natural, but can the RRT-2's circuitry take 2x 3.7 Volts?

 

[PCC]

Why not? Two RCR123s have the same voltage as two 18650s, right? It fired up just fine in all modes.

 

[selfbuilt]

Looks so natural, but can the RRT-2's circuitry take 2x 3.7 Volts?

The original RRT-2 I reviewed here certainly can - see the output and runtime graphs in the review.

 

[peterharvey73]

Why not? Two RCR123s have the same voltage as two 18650s, right? It fired up just fine in all modes.

The original RRT-2 I reviewed here certainly can - see the output and runtime graphs in the review.

You's are right.
My mind just wasn't thinking clearly, and I forgot about about the ability of the original RRT-2 to take one 18650 @ 3.7V, or two (2) x 16340's @ 3.7V each.
So an RRT-2 with a MXM/M2S with extender for 2x 18650's @ 3.7V each should be fine for the circuitry to cope with the voltage.

 

[tbarb169]

Hi, not sure if this is the right place for this question, but here goes: I have the rrt-2, recently it does not want to turn on. I have fully charged 18650 (2 of them). The only way to get the light to work is to turn the selector ring and hold it past the setting you want. Or if you hold both ends and kind of squeeze the together. Nothing moves but seems some pressure helps.

Any ideas?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[selfbuilt]

Hi, not sure if this is the right place for this question, but here goes: I have the rrt-2, recently it does not want to turn on. I have fully charged 18650 (2 of them). The only way to get the light to work is to turn the selector ring and hold it past the setting you want. Or if you hold both ends and kind of squeeze the together. Nothing moves but seems some pressure helps.

Not much you can do if the fault is with the head. Have you tried thoroughly cleaning and tightening everything? Check out the tailcap switch as well. If the problem is with the control ring/head, you are likely going to have to send it back for warranty service.

 

[tbarb169]

Not much you can do if the fault is with the head. Have you tried thoroughly cleaning and tightening everything? Check out the tailcap switch as well. If the problem is with the control ring/head, you are likely going to have to send it back for warranty service.

I have cleaned the threads. Any particular way or tool to remove the tail cap button?

The light also unscrew right above the words high mid low, but stops. Should it totally unscrew? I assume the strike bezel on the top also comes off...

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[selfbuilt]

I have cleaned the threads. Any particular way or tool to remove the tail cap button?
The light also unscrew right above the words high mid low, but stops. Should it totally unscrew? I assume the strike bezel on the top also comes off...

The RRT-2 is a little different from most lights, as you would need to remove the external retaining ring (around the switch button) to access the switch (a good set of snap-ring pliers is likely required). But you could rule out the switch by simply connecting the negative battery terminal to the body tube with a flat piece of metal, applying some pressure on the battery to ensure good contact in the head (i.e., and see if the ring works normally then).

The bezel ring should unscrew, but that will likely only give you access to the front of the emitter. I don't believe this model is considered user-serviceable for accessing the pill. If anyone has tried, please weigh in. It seems likely though that you will need to consider warranty service.

 

[tbarb169]

Thanks selfbuilt. I will see if I can rule out the switch.

I am not the original owner of this light, bought it from another member a couple of years back, so any "warranty" work will come on my dime.

 

[tbarb169]

Well definitely not the tailcap clicky. It seems to be the selector ring. Just subtle pressure makes it go on and off.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2