Current best 6" x 8" sealed beam replacements

[-Virgil-]

I think we're actually saying the same thing

I don't agree.

At least to me, it seems like the Cibie H4s (at least the 7" round and 200mm rectangular, the two that I've used) with a relay harness and 55W lows reach that goal.

But they don't. Not objectively.

And they *are* superior to pretty much every headlight I've driven behind

No, sorry, they simply aren't.

- 2002 VW GTI 1.8T US spec halogens
- 2005 Chevy Impala halogens
- 2008 Chevy Impala halogens
- 2011 or 2012 (I forget) Ford Fusion halogens

All of these are objectively considerably higher performers than H4s.

- Isuzu Xterra halogens (same)

Don't know what you were actually driving; the Xterra is a Nissan model.

when I do get a vehicle that was either originally equipped with sealed beams or has "aero" headlights but UNECE versions available (see Corrado above) upgrading is a no-brainer

UN headlamps are not necessarily better than US headlamps.

Probably the OP is sick of us going back and forth about this

Maybe. In case not, there's a much longer, more heated thread about it.

 

[Diesel_Bomber]

By all means, carry on. I got the info I needed.

Thanks again!

 

[Lightdoctor]

I just installed the Hella Vision Plus on a bucket truck and found them to be a major improvement over the GE H6054LL which were installed at the factory. I chose these because they fit the budget and would be an improvement over just about anything else out there and still be USDOT legal. I dumped the included GE H4's and installed Philips Vision Plus 9003/HB2 lamps instead. I chose the Philips vision plus, due to not wanting to glare oncoming motorists and becasue the VP has a longer life when compared to the XV. It's a b!tch to replace lamps on ths rig. I had to adjust them down after the installation from the setting of the old sealed beams. But even with that, the vision ahead has improved by 100% (subjectively). High beam is okay with the height of the rig. The Cibie's would've been better overall, but they were more money. If it was my rig, I would've gone with the Cibies, or better yet...the JW Speaker LED inserts.

 

[Ofelas]

What high quality 55w/100 would you recommend for a Cibie H4 E-code headlight height of approx 42" off the ground?

Considering Philips Rallye 90w/100 and Osram Off Road 80w/100 as well, depending on longevity of the mentioned bulbs.

Also - any preference between the RallyLights.com, Painless & ARB/IPF harnesses for H4 setups?

Pros/cons of these harnesses?

 

[-Virgil-]

What high quality 55w/100 would you recommend for a Cibie H4 E-code headlight height of approx 42" off the ground?

Any reputable brand (GE/Tungsram, Philips/Narva, Flosser, Osram).

Considering Philips Rallye 90w/100 and Osram Off Road 80w/100 as well, depending on longevity of the mentioned bulbs.

Much shorter lifespan with higher wattage low beam filament, also not a good idea to put in a high-power low beam with a high headlamp height like that unless the vehicle never gets used in traffic.

Also - any preference between the RallyLights.com, Painless & ARB/IPF harnesses for H4 setups?

I would not buy the Painless or ARB/IPF harnesses. Quality and reliability are too iffy. Haven't had problems with harnesses from RallyLights or Dan Stern.

 

[Ofelas]

Thanks.
Is Rallylights HL28101 or HL282 the correct harness? There's a difference of $20 between the two, they look identical.
Noted on the 55w/100 being best.

 

[-Virgil-]

Thanks.
Is Rallylights HL28101 or HL282 the correct harness?

The correct harness depends on what kind of vehicle you've got. Different vehicles' headlamp circuitry requires different harness configuration.

 

[Ofelas]

The correct harness depends on what kind of vehicle you've got. Different vehicles' headlamp circuitry requires different harness configuration.

Older domestic vehicle, no DRL, two factory H6054 sealed beams, factory wiring through factory dash mounted headlamp switch, no relays.

 

[-Virgil-]

That's the kind of info your vendor will need.

 

[Ofelas]

When I go with a harness, I will go with Stern's kit - the slight premium is well worth his help, advice & peace of mind.

Out of curiosity - what negatives have you heard about the Painless H4 conversion kit?

 

[N8N]

I think rally lights is comparable to DS... I'd prefer to have multiple fuses & 4 relays but that is the only thing I'd change with it.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

 

[-Virgil-]

what negatives have you heard about the Painless H4 conversion kit?

Seen, not heard. It's a combination of quality issues, cost-effectiveness issues, and (what I consider) inappropriate specifications and component selections that keep me away from Painless Wiring.

 

[Ofelas]

N8N - 4 relays on a 2 headlight system? I"m curious.
Fuse wise - even though the factory 6ga cable from ALT to STRT is standard for my 120 amp Denso, I added a 4ga wire from alternator +ve to battery +ve & I even put 2 inline fuses in that cable as per Stern's advice.

Schein - I do like Painless Wiring's nifty weatherproof US made relays & holders, as well as the capped fuse holder.
From what I see about the RL kit, they're outsourced Asian relays (not sure whether weatherproofed or not) and an uncapped fuse. Not sure about Sterns components. Any hints?

 

[N8N]

4 relays - instead of using "dual 87" relays for low and high beam, use one relay for each filament for redundancy. I had a relay fail on me once; losing one low beam is better than losing both! Admittedly I experienced a rather rare failure but there are things that could be done to mitigate it. I'd also put an individual fused feed on each relay so if a short occurred it would only take out one filament instead of the whole harness. I've never had that happen, but still...

The RL harness that I got uses Hella relay sockets and Tyco (Amp?) Relays. Don't know what the headlight sockets are but they look quality.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

 

[Ofelas]

Gotcha. Of course, redundancy is best achieved with multiple bumper mounted lights :-D

4 relays - instead of using "dual 87" relays for low and high beam, use one relay for each filament for redundancy. I had a relay fail on me once; losing one low beam is better than losing both! Admittedly I experienced a rather rare failure but there are things that could be done to mitigate it. I'd also put an individual fused feed on each relay so if a short occurred it would only take out one filament instead of the whole harness. I've never had that happen, but still...

The RL harness that I got uses Hella relay sockets and Tyco (Amp?) Relays. Don't know what the headlight sockets are but they look quality.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

 

[-Virgil-]

4 relays - instead of using "dual 87" relays for low and high beam, use one relay for each filament for redundancy.

I don't think this is better -- just different. You reduce the effects of a failure (only one filament stops working) but you've increased the odds of a failure happening (increased number of components and connections/terminations = increased number of potential failure points).

RL uses Hella relays (almost?) exclusively. The relays I get from Stern are almost always Tyco/Bosch.

 

[N8N]

Trust me, the one time I had a relay fail (not from a vendor mentioned in this thread; sadly he is now deceased and I'm sure the failure was a fluke) it was of course pitch black and I am lucky I did not ditch the car as I suddenly only had two 5W bulbs for forward illumination... a little bit scary.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

 

[Ofelas]

Those 8900 JW Speaker units - completely plug and play for a non DRL twin H6054 setup? Additional wiring harness required?
Hows the warmth and contrast compared to H4 Cibies?

 

[N8N]

Yes plug and play with exceptions. There was an excellent thread on jeepforum regarding this, apparently some vehicles use PWM to reduce voltage to the lights and that may cause noticeable flicker. There are adapters made specifically for those Jeep models if you have that issue. Bulb monitors may be an issue as well if you have them. You shouldn't need a traditional heavy gauge relay harness to run LEDs as I assume they are not direct drive (that is, there's a driver circuit regulating current through the LEDs) and they draw much less current than stock halogens, so protecting the switch contacts is less of a concern.

 

[Ofelas]

Nothing fancy on this vehicle, 30 year old lighting circuit with 2 x H6054 is all

So GTG without a dedicated harness if I wasn't worried about my factory headlight switch?

Cheapest place to get them?

Would like to hear from users...diesel_bomber - how do you find them compared to the Cibie's ?