Should I go Pro? Eneloop.

sweetlight

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I have been using Eneloops for years and have nothing but praise for them. They all seem to be working fine. I haven't bought any new ones in about 3 years. I am looking to buy a few AAA. The pro has more capacity. But It also is only rated to be recharged 500 times. The regular ones have a little less capacity but can be charged over 2000 times. That is a big difference. 500 quality charges is probably plenty but the difference makes me wonder about the quality of the pro's. I will use the batteries in a flashlight. Which battery would give me the best mix of brightness, run times, and durability? Thanks!
 

TinderBox (UK)

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Pro or XX supposedly have a cycle rate of 500, but test have show you can get less than 300 if you fully discharge the battery`s every time which really defeats the point in having the extra capacity.

But in an emergency the extra capacity can come in handy, the choice is your`s

John.
 

ChrisGarrett

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Like John says, if you need the added capacity and can't carry spares, then the Pros are the way to go.

Even if you get 250 cycles out of them, that's once a week for ~5 years and a quad costs you ~$8. Not exactly breaking the bank.

It seems to me that the AAA size, whether hi-cap LSD, or not, develops higher internal resistances than the AA versions, but that's just my observation over 4 years, with standard AA and AAA Eneloops. I don't have any AAA XX/Pros.

Chris
 

MidnightDistortions

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Like John says, if you need the added capacity and can't carry spares, then the Pros are the way to go.

Even if you get 250 cycles out of them, that's once a week for ~5 years and a quad costs you ~$8. Not exactly breaking the bank.

It seems to me that the AAA size, whether hi-cap LSD, or not, develops higher internal resistances than the AA versions, but that's just my observation over 4 years, with standard AA and AAA Eneloops. I don't have any AAA XX/Pros.

Chris

It's strange because i have AAA Eneloop Pros that do this. They read like 1.5 or 1.6v in my C9000's IR test while i have some Radioshacks that are in the 1.4v range. Both brand cells are from 2014. I started using the AAA Pros more to see if using them would lower the IR on them.

As for the OP, i think if you need the extra capacity on them then go for it, otherwise the regular AAA's are just fine.
 

markr6

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I prefer the regular Eneloops. I think if the extra 500mAh is so critical, the user will probably have a backup cell anyway. But I never seem run batteries much below 50% anyway. I guess it depends on the application.
 

ChrisGarrett

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It's strange because i have AAA Eneloop Pros that do this. They read like 1.5 or 1.6v in my C9000's IR test while i have some Radioshacks that are in the 1.4v range. Both brand cells are from 2014. I started using the AAA Pros more to see if using them would lower the IR on them.

As for the OP, i think if you need the extra capacity on them then go for it, otherwise the regular AAA's are just fine.

I noticed that around year two, I started seeing higher IRs across the board for my Eneloop AAAs, both light/dark green Costcos and white 1500s, or whatever they're called. Some were approaching (at times) 1.7x volts while the AAs were in the 1.4x-1.5x volt rage.

I just figured that being smaller, with less go-go juice inside, spells the difference.

Chris
 

Swede74

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I noticed that around year two, I started seeing higher IRs across the board for my Eneloop AAAs, both light/dark green Costcos and white 1500s, or whatever they're called. Some were approaching (at times) 1.7x volts while the AAs were in the 1.4x-1.5x volt rage.

Chris

It's strange because i have AAA Eneloop Pros that do this. They read like 1.5 or 1.6v in my C9000's IR test while i have some Radioshacks that are in the 1.4v range. Both brand cells are from 2014. I started using the AAA Pros more to see if using them would lower the IR on them.

I don't know if I'm misunderstanding or learning something new here: Is increased voltage a sign of increased internal resistance?


 

MidnightDistortions

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I don't know if I'm misunderstanding or learning something new here: Is increased voltage a sign of increased internal resistance?



The Powerex C9000 does an internal resistance check by voltage.

1.4v (or under) - 0% IR
1.8v - 80-90%
2.0v ( or higher) - 100%

Usually at 1.8v or higher its a good idea to get new cells. Any cells that read HIGH in the C9000 is recommended to recycle, though some people like me will continue to use the cells in low drain devices. I use the La Crosse BC1000 or a voltage cut off charger that will stop charging past 1.47v.
 

MarioJP

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Eneloops pros are nice but the trade off of cycle/capacity is not worth it because it defeats the purpose of rechargeability and good run times. But the biggest important factor of all is AMPS. These White eneloops are very durable. They outlasted the Duracell ion cores lol. 5 years if you only charge once a week or 2. For me is every other day to almost everyday how many years will the pros last me at this rate? lol.
 
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ChrisGarrett

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I don't know if I'm misunderstanding or learning something new here: Is increased voltage a sign of increased internal resistance?

The Maha C9000 measures IR in volts, right before it goes into charge mode. For me, anything below 1.5x is 'good' and the Maha should reject batteries above 2.00v, but in reality for me, I've gotten batteries to charge that read 2.10v-2.11v.

I was able to get some Sanyo 2700s with IRs of over 2.60v to charge, by inserting them and attempting to charge and then reinserting them a half dozen times--each time lowering the IR number until the charger failed to reject it.

Chris
 

Swede74

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Thank you MidnightDistortions and ChrisGarrett. I'm still a bit confused as I thought resistance was measured in ohms, not volts. This is probably not the right place to ask for a more detailed explanation; I will consult one of the Maha C9000 threads and see if I can't get the penny to drop.
 

Mr Floppy

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Thank you MidnightDistortions and ChrisGarrett. I'm still a bit confused as I thought resistance was measured in ohms, not volts. This is probably not the right place to ask for a more detailed explanation; I will consult one of the Maha C9000 threads and see if I can't get the penny to drop.

You are correct. Resistance is measured in ohms. The C9000 reading is just referred to as an internal resistance test because that's sort of what it is doing but it isn't a measure of the internal resistance.
 

ChrisGarrett

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You are correct. Resistance is measured in ohms. The C9000 reading is just referred to as an internal resistance test because that's sort of what it is doing but it isn't a measure of the internal resistance.

It's more of a 'relative gauge' telling the user that the charger is running past a certain point: 2.00v, when trying to charge up the batteries (due to higher than new IRs) and it's not meant to be a true I.R. measure.

It only means things to people who share the Maha C9000, or have correlated the data with known IR measurements. Like if I could check the IRs on my Maha, get a set of 4 voltages and then put those 'full' cells onto my Opus BT-3400 and get a reading off of that charger and somehow figure out that a 2.50v reading on my Maha translates to 150mU on the Opus.

HKJ doesn't care for the various methods, but I'm not building the next space shuttle, so it's mostly amusement for me.

Chris
 

hiuintahs

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I have been using Eneloops for years and have nothing but praise for them. They all seem to be working fine. I haven't bought any new ones in about 3 years. I am looking to buy a few AAA. The pro has more capacity. But It also is only rated to be recharged 500 times. The regular ones have a little less capacity but can be charged over 2000 times. That is a big difference. 500 quality charges is probably plenty but the difference makes me wonder about the quality of the pro's............
You might be interested in this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...oop-XX-2500-mAh-batteries-dropping-like-flies
 

tripplec

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Well I have both Eneloops. I use the Black Pro's in my Digital camera which calls for 4 AA cells. You feel the weight but that's good in a camera offering stability IMO. Anyway, it doesn't get charged often but when I am out on a log period of more important a vacation (wishful thinking). I know I will not run this down even with > 500 shots even using a flash now and then.

Hence the real answer is: IT DEPENDS !!!
 

FireWire

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Short answer: If you using an emergency flashlight, you "need" the longest time available.

Simple example


The Flash light
My friend uses a NITECORE EA81 2150 lumens, running on 8 AA batteries.


Battery real world experience
We tried 8AAs freshly charged :
Tronic 2300mah, because of the high drain, they gave a real world capacity of 1500mah
Uniross 2400mah, these vented in the cold and caused the buttons to inflate
Tronic 2500mah, these were the dimmest.
Eneloop Pro 2450mah, these were the brightest out of the pack of the 4 types of batteries, no button inflating.

So we compared the run times and the Eneloop Pros lasted the longest, and in an emergency flashlight you "need" the longest battery life.

We hope this helps
 

chillinn

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Well, someone needs to take a stand. Eneloop Pros are fragile and not worth the considerable extra money for a negligible increase in capacity and a massively decreased cell life. I think I got maybe 50 recharges out of the 8 AAAs I own before they all exhibited the symptoms of increased resistance: dim lights. I take full responsibility for the damage incurred by my Eneloop Pros, basically my first set of rechargeables, and though I tried, could never really estimate when they'd hit the knee before dropping below 1V

Eneloops, OTOH, take the abuse, and still pump out the same expected capacity and voltage under load, keeping your lights bright well beyond 500 and 1000 charges.

If you absolutely need more capacity, but don't need the excellent LSD of Eneloop Pros, try EBL. I have been shamelessly abusing a quad of ubercheap EBL brand cells without restraint or concern for over a year. Pulled off the charger and set to use within a few days, they'll match Eneloop Pro capacity if depleted within a week. They're crap, but so cheap it makes sense.
 
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FireWire

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Well, someone needs to take a stand. Eneloop Pros are fragile and not worth the considerable extra money for a negligible increase in capacity and a massively decreased cell life. I think I got maybe 50 recharges out of the 8 AAAs I own before they all exhibited the symptoms of increased resistance: dim lights. I take full responsibility for the damage incurred by my Eneloop Pros, basically my first set of rechargeables, and though I tried, could never really estimate when they'd hit the knee before dropping below 1V

Eneloops, OTOH, take the abuse, and still pump out the same expected capacity and voltage under load, keeping your lights bright well beyond 500 and 1000 charges.

If you absolutely need more capacity, but don't need the excellent LSD of Eneloop Pros, try EBL. I have been shamelessly abusing a quad of ubercheap EBL brand cells without restraint or concern for over a year. Pulled off the charger and set to use within a few days, they'll match Eneloop Pro capacity if depleted within a week. They're crap, but so cheap it makes sense.

Hi could you kindly link us to the EBL your using. They sound like another nicely tested battery that delivers.
 

chillinn

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Hi could you kindly link us to the EBL your using. They sound like another nicely tested battery that delivers.

read NLee the Engineer's review of EBL
http://www.amazon.com/review/R2BB5XJQ840IH0
(His original review was far more generous.)
then try a search on Amazon.
Again, these are not really LSD cells, though they are advertised as such, rather cheap HSD high capacity. If you need your cell to have 90% charge in 9 months, go with eneloop. If you eat through all your charged cells in two weeks, EBL will do for little over $1/cell.
 
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MarioJP

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Well, someone needs to take a stand. Eneloop Pros are fragile and not worth the considerable extra money for a negligible increase in capacity and a massively decreased cell life. I think I got maybe 50 recharges out of the 8 AAAs I own before they all exhibited the symptoms of increased resistance: dim lights. I take full responsibility for the damage incurred by my Eneloop Pros, basically my first set of rechargeables, and though I tried, could never really estimate when they'd hit the knee before dropping below 1V

Eneloops, OTOH, take the abuse, and still pump out the same expected capacity and voltage under load, keeping your lights bright well beyond 500 and 1000 charges.

If you absolutely need more capacity, but don't need the excellent LSD of Eneloop Pros, try EBL. I have been shamelessly abusing a quad of ubercheap EBL brand cells without restraint or concern for over a year. Pulled off the charger and set to use within a few days, they'll match Eneloop Pro capacity if depleted within a week. They're crap, but so cheap it makes sense.

This sounds similar to my case. While my cells were Duracell ion core. i am pretty sure they're Eneloop pros under the wrapper. I think i am starting to understand the 2 version of Eneloops now. The high caps is meant to have the longest run time. BUT, are charged less often. Basically, make those 250-500 cycles count. Don't treat em like the standard Eneloops.
 
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