I just got a Fenix E01 and hate it. Tint is purple and makes me crazy. Nichia? What a joke. Second, if the head is pressed down while off, it turns on the light
The E01 is my perfect example of what a bad Low CRI LED can look like. It IS a Nichia but not a 219 version..
all twisties can be activated by pressing on the head, unless unscrewed far enough.
I find "neutral" Low CRI LEDs absolutely disgusting, and though I own a Ti3 in Titanium, the threads are absolutely horribly gritty, unless you buy a special lubricant for Ti, which can work very well. But the Thrunites are not High CRI, so I would only buy one with the intent to have the LED changed. (you will need someone willing or able to modify)
For all those reasons, I recommend a Lumintop Tool w N219.. The Titanium version is quite nice, I personally really like the Copper version. There are also aluminium models, both w electronic switch (capable of tailstanding), or w mechanical switch, that does not allow tailstanding.
Yes I have experience w the Fenix E05, but I only use lights w High CRI, so would not recommend it. I also prefer lights with reversible pocket clips, which I find useful on a hat, for hands free use. The Lumintop Tool can do that too.
if you want me to tell you where to buy, dont ask in open forum, send me a PM, so we dont break any CPF rules.
The way I keep my lights from getting scratched, is to NOT put them on my keys. They go in a dedicated pocket, by themselves.
speaking of AAA options
Thrunite, Fenix, and Olight do not offer any High CRI lights.
Manker and Lumintop do offer N219 options, so thats where I would look.
Another maker w High CRI offerings (Warm Nichia E21a) is Folomov, but their EDC C1 has no keyring connection, Im not a fan of their UI, and it is 10440 only, not AAA.
some of my AAA: (second from right is the CU Tool w N219 that I recommend)
some of the other lights mentioned: