Is there a keychain light everyone loves?

ma tumba

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While I dont carry a light on my keychain, I have one that I have always considered the ultimate one: the 3-stage Aeon mk ii
 

PartyPete

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If you want something cheap for multiple keys (and even zipper pulls etc) the Nitecore Tube is a consideration.

If you don't mind a small brick on your keys the Nitecore TUP can blast 1000 lumens. Acebeam has a similar high output light, the UC15...better form factor, but it takes 2 10440 (or AAA for reduced output).

For traditional AAA stuff: Fenix E01 or E05 or Sofirn C01. Tool AAA is another.

A good higher output cylindrical twisty would be the Fenix E15 also.
 

mhpreston

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What about the AAA Olight? I've got a couple on key rings that don't get used very often, but always seem to work well when needed. By contrast, I had a little Thrunite which failed after a couple of years and hit the bin.


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Buck91

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What about the AAA Olight? I've got a couple on key rings that don't get used very often, but always seem to work well when needed. By contrast, I had a little Thrunite which failed after a couple of years and hit the bin.


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I leave that on my wife's keys because she doesn't want to deal with modes, etc... Seems to hold up well after a year, just some ano wear as expected.
 

Mr. LED

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I just got a Fenix E01 and hate it. Tint is purple and makes me crazy. Nichia? What a joke. Second, if the head is pressed down while off, it turns on the light which makes it totally not suitable for pocket carry. In order for this not to happen, the head must be unscrewed too much, which also drives me crazy.

Maybe I'll try the Thrunite Ti3, at least it has a neutral version and a 0.04lm firefly mode, plus 12 and 120 lumens.

Anybody has experience with the Fenix E05 tint?
 

5S8Zh5

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My key is on a paracord loop attached to a carbiner. My carry keychain light is a Thrunite Ti3, clipped in a cargo pocket. Also have a Prometheus Beta QRv2, and a Sofirn C01S enroute - which seems pretty stout lol:

 
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LeanBurn

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Olight i3E. Its a very small ( AAA) dedicated key chain light, $9, great quality & construction, single mode, very good reviews.

I have gifted the Olight i3E to a couple of people and they love them.
 

youngster

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For someone like me who is bothered by the scratches and wear that accompanies a cheap keychain light, what material holds up best in that regard? I know my Fenix e01 and e05 both look pretty crappy after about a year in my pocket, with keys scratching away on them.

Is titanium the way to go? Or perhaps a copper one like the RovyVon A9? I would think stainless steel would hold up better than all of them, but it is kinda heavy.
 

Buck91

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Maybe a polished or brushed finish ti but stainless steel is probably the most durable shiny.
 

jon_slider

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I just got a Fenix E01 and hate it. Tint is purple and makes me crazy. Nichia? What a joke. Second, if the head is pressed down while off, it turns on the light

The E01 is my perfect example of what a bad Low CRI LED can look like. It IS a Nichia but not a 219 version..

all twisties can be activated by pressing on the head, unless unscrewed far enough.

I find "neutral" Low CRI LEDs absolutely disgusting, and though I own a Ti3 in Titanium, the threads are absolutely horribly gritty, unless you buy a special lubricant for Ti, which can work very well. But the Thrunites are not High CRI, so I would only buy one with the intent to have the LED changed. (you will need someone willing or able to modify)

For all those reasons, I recommend a Lumintop Tool w N219.. The Titanium version is quite nice, I personally really like the Copper version. There are also aluminium models, both w electronic switch (capable of tailstanding), or w mechanical switch, that does not allow tailstanding.

Yes I have experience w the Fenix E05, but I only use lights w High CRI, so would not recommend it. I also prefer lights with reversible pocket clips, which I find useful on a hat, for hands free use. The Lumintop Tool can do that too.

if you want me to tell you where to buy, dont ask in open forum, send me a PM, so we dont break any CPF rules.

The way I keep my lights from getting scratched, is to NOT put them on my keys. They go in a dedicated pocket, by themselves.

speaking of AAA options
Thrunite, Fenix, and Olight do not offer any High CRI lights.
Manker and Lumintop do offer N219 options, so thats where I would look.
Another maker w High CRI offerings (Warm Nichia E21a) is Folomov, but their EDC C1 has no keyring connection, Im not a fan of their UI, and it is 10440 only, not AAA.

some of my AAA: (second from right is the CU Tool w N219 that I recommend)
lWV3xW1.png


some of the other lights mentioned:
jvuC1SPl.jpg
 
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archimedes

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For someone like me who is bothered by the scratches and wear that accompanies a cheap keychain light, what material holds up best in that regard? .... Is titanium the way to go? Or perhaps a copper one ... ? I would think stainless steel would hold up better than all of them, but it is kinda heavy.

I've had keyring flashlights in ... plastic, aluminum, brass, copper, steel, and titanium ... coated and uncoated.

Most durable and scratch-resistant = stainless steel, no contest (apart from exotic coatings, like DLC over Ti)

They all have pros and cons, though. Some of these (eg, weight issues, heatsinking, etc) are of limited impact given the small size and output of most keyring items.

• plastic
(+) lightweight and cheap
(-) appearance
(-) fragility

• aluminum
(+) lightweight / cheap (for metal)
(+) anodizing for color / durability
(-) obvious scratches and wear (especially Type II finishes)

• brass
(+) very smooth threads
(+) appearance
(+/-) patina
(-) heavy

• copper
(+) appearance
(-/+) patina
(-) very heavy
(-) soft and easily dented

• steel (generally stainless)
(+) durable and scratch-resistant
(-) heavy

• titanium
(+) very durable yet lightweight
(+) appearance (including color anodizing)
(+) can accept high-end coating(s)
(+) can be refinished pretty easily
(-) easily scratched (surface)
(-) gritty threads
(-) expensive
 
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youngster

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I've had keyring flashlights in ... plastic, aluminum, brass, copper, steel, and titanium ... coated and uncoated.

Most durable and scratch-resistant = stainless steel, no contest (apart from exotic coatings, like DLC over Ti)

They all have pros and cons, though. Some of these (eg, weight issues, heatsinking, etc) are of limited impact given the small size and output of most keyring items.

• plastic
(+) lightweight and cheap
(-) appearance
(-) fragility

• aluminum
(+) lightweight / cheap (for metal)
(+) anodizing for color / durability
(-) obvious scratches and wear (especially Type II finishes)

• brass
(+) very smooth threads
(+) appearance
(+/-) patina
(-) heavy

• copper
(+) appearance
(-/+) patina
(-) very heavy
(-) soft and easily dented

• steel (generally stainless)
(+) durable and scratch-resistant
(-) heavy

• titanium
(+) very durable yet lightweight
(+) appearance (including color anodizing)
(+) can accept high-end coating(s)
(+) can be refinished pretty easily
(-) easily scratched (surface)
(-) gritty threads
(-) expensive

Thanks for that feedback. Extremely helpful to me. I will be focusing on stainless steel, not worrying so much about weight because these keychain lights are extremely small anyway.
 

Vemice

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Not sure if they are still available but the Peak Eiger 10180 is as tough as they come. Fully potted head and SS.
DYJDIljl.jpg
 

Lynx_Arc

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Tulsa,OK
Thanks for that feedback. Extremely helpful to me. I will be focusing on stainless steel, not worrying so much about weight because these keychain lights are extremely small anyway.

Until I lost it my Fenix LD01SS was built like a tank after 10 years banging around in my pocket with change and keys I had a chapstick cap over the end to protect the glass lens the rest of the light looked like the same as it had 9 years ago. Stainless will lose a little of it shininess but not show scratches that other lights will have looking like well worn after a month or two. Stainless is a LOT heavier than aluminum such that I think the extra weight on my keychain contributed to me wearing out the ignition lock of my car quicker.
If I could afford it I would get another 3 mode stainless LED AAA light as my Lumintop tool AAA looks well worn after just a few months but for the price the tool AAA is not a bad light to get until you can afford something better.
 

bykfixer

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Dust in the Wind
One that "everyone" loves?
Probably not.
Tastes vary, needs vary and budgets too.

I gave away a few little Energizer numbers that look like a mini phaser that puts out around 20 fairly diffused lumens and the recipients loved them. Polished alluminum chassis. Simple on/off that is touch activated yet has no button. Great for lighting dark steps.

My keychain for work has a tiny little laser pointer/light combo that only weighs a few grams but lights a keyhole just dandy. In my pocket is a number that lights up 50 feet in front of me that is a keychain light but is too big in my view.

Some folks need power and lots of it.
IMG-20171116-135620.jpg
 

AVService

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I see the keys there in the background but I really want to see the pocket or belt that this one clips on to?!

One that "everyone" loves?
Probably not.
Tastes vary, needs vary and budgets too.

I gave away a few little Energizer numbers that look like a mini phaser that puts out around 20 fairly diffused lumens and the recipients loved them. Polished alluminum chassis. Simple on/off that is touch activated yet has no button. Great for lighting dark steps.

My keychain for work has a tiny little laser pointer/light combo that only weighs a few grams but lights a keyhole just dandy. In my pocket is a number that lights up 50 feet in front of me that is a keychain light but is too big in my view.

Some folks need power and lots of it.
IMG-20171116-135620.jpg
 

bykfixer

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Dust in the Wind
To me, the ARC aaa is a true classic that is now seen as a stone aged tool.

Yet like the 57 Ford T-bird there was a time when Baker St was flooded with them. I keep my ARC stashed away for special occasions kinda like my neighbor has his T-bird tucked safely away to ensure on those special occasions, that in all of its charm it causes folks to grin when they see it.

At some point the Fenix E01 became a sort of modern day ARC aaa and it too became a has been lighting tool as progress moved the ball forward. My favorite purple E01 was confiscated by Mrs. Fixer who keeps it handy for lighting up small print or view small details in her craft making stuff.

So then there was this so called Sofirn C01 Yuji, where all of the virtues of an ARC aaa and Fenix E01 remained but the things people disliked about them were replaced with a nice beam and a choice of a neutral or warm tint. They were a special project limited to 1000 units in warm or neutral so those are no longer available.

The Fenix E05 took care of a couple of issues with levels and a floody beam. The new C01 also has levels. But seemingly still lacking are rock solid durability and ability to run nearly a week on a depleted battery. I was able to squeeze light from an E01 for nearly a month from a battery that would no longer power a cordless computer mouse. One day it just quit but until that time it was in a firefly mode every night when nature called at 2am.

My daily is a 1xaaa by famous SureFire designer PK who incorparated self defense virtues in a keychain light. With a microstream clip it acts as a ballcap light that can tailstand. The finish has held up well on the PVD coated version(s) and the uncoated polished silver ones hide scratches very well. On the rare occasion I have misplaced my PL2 a Maglite Solitaire takes on the edc task easily with its brighter than the numbers suggest 40+ lumen output.

It's nice to have choices and this is a great time to be a flashlight fanatic.
 
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