Mc Clicky

[strideredc]

Nothing like being upto date, so I got my first mc clicky conversion of a Surefire twist momentary on tailcap after 20 years of Surefire ownership 😉

Well I must say I am not impressed! is it just me but it sounds like a cheap pen! PING!! it's so sensitive you only have to go near it and it momentarily goes on!
And finally after a 15min run in my 6p using 18350 cells and a p91 it burned out! least it doesn't sound like a cheap pen now! 😀

Worst part is I have had to buy a replacement (2 to make shipping more worthwhile) as I don't have the original plunger for this one

Maybe I got unlucky? it's supposed to take 6a isn't it? none of my origanal Surefire e series sound or operate like this?

Anyone else in this camp?

 

[Olumin]

Right with you on the mcclicky. Too sensitive, no travel, springy sound, lots of air in between boot & plunger. The latter can be eliminated with a spacer placed underneath the switch boot. To me the original surefire switches are still the gold standard. Sadly a standard Fury tailcap will not work on my MD2 with an 18650, only 16650. The newer fury tailcaps made for DF models dont even fit anymore.

 

[ilikeguns40]

Is it an actual name brand McClicky made by Don Mcleish? Or is a knock off one like lumens factory? McClicky is my all time favorite switch. Never had one issue

 

[ledbetter]

Nothing wrong with original surefire plunger tail but it's not so great with multi mode drop ins. Lumens factory is alright but prefer Oveready clickies made in USA. Adding orings to boot can adjust resistance and pressure needed to activate.

 

[knucklegary]

Is it an actual name brand McClicky made by Don Mcleish? Or is a knock off one like lumens factory? McClicky is my all time favorite switch. Never had one issue

LF Mark acquisitions them through channels in HK. They are genuine, made in China..
Nothing about the switch is great. In the past I've discussed with Mark upgrading build quality. Plunger travel, spring material. Most American flashlight mfgrs use the McJunky..
Oveready makes their own brass retainer ring. But yes the same stinkin switch. Dan goes through the switches only installing the ones, in his flashlights, that meet specs.
I've had new switches arrive bent or plunger so tight, like Strider said, slightest touch and momentary comes on. I've had to take apart a brand new switch to tune them up. When ordering spares but at least 3 switches. You might get lucky and one will function properly

 

[NutSAK]

Is it an actual name brand McClicky made by Don Mcleish? Or is a knock off one like lumens factory? McClicky is my all time favorite switch. Never had one issue

LF Mark acquisitions them through channels in HK. They are genuine, made in China..
Nothing about the switch is great. In the past I've discussed with Mark upgrading build quality. Plunger travel, spring material. Most American flashlight mfgrs use the McJunky..

How can knock-offs be identified? I've bought them from multiple sources (Malkoff, Illumn, LF) and I can't see a physical difference in any of them, except that more recent ones had the cell end of the spring ground flat.

I agree that the action of the switch is not ideal in all tailcaps, but I've never had one fail in use. I've thrown a few away that broke while I was removing them, but that was my fault for side-loading the housing with a tool and broke the plastic.

 

[ilikeguns40]

How can knock-offs be identified? I've bought them from multiple sources (Malkoff, Illumn, LF) and I can't see a physical difference in any of them, except that more recent ones had the cell end of the spring ground flat.

I agree that the action of the switch is not ideal in all tailcaps, but I've never had one fail in use. I've thrown a few away that broke while I was removing them, but that was my fault for side-loading the housing with a tool and broke the plastic.

I honestly have no clue. This is the first I'm hearing about someone who dislikes the McClicky. I find it to be a perfect switch. My surefires are nice but I've noticed in time they tend to have a suction annoyance but still work

 

[knucklegary]

The only time my switches failed is after dropping. Fixed that issue with oring bumpers. Sometimes the action will get sluggish from dirt. Then all it takes is a good douche with silicone spray. If you put too mamy amps you'll melt it, and I've never had that issue..
All of the switches i have the last spring coil is sheared off, left with jagged edge. Haven't seen the ground flat version, yet. Then again I haven't had to buy any for awhile..
I plan to visit Craig at Illumn to pick up batts later this week. I'll ask him about newly mfgr'd McClickies, and how to ID the counterfeits if there is such a thing.

This is a new switch purchased from OR a few years ago. This is exactly how it arrived. Good for spare parts.

 

[Megalamuffin]

I suppose malkoff uses a genuine mcclicky? Never had problems on either of three different malkoff tailcaps, but the surefire switches inspire more confidence and sound more substantial by comparison.

 

[knucklegary]

I believe Gene also now installs orings in complete flashlights to protect switch from battery hammer blows. The oring bumpers is a simple and inexpensive solution

 

[ilikeguns40]

I believe Gene also now installs orings in complete flashlights to protect switch from battery hammer blows. The oring bumpers is a simple and inexpensive solution

Yes he does. Battery bumper is a great feature

 

[knucklegary]

I see the ground flat finish that Nutsak mentioned. The spring tip is properly finished 👍
I've also seen where the spring machine tilts a top coil section inward. That's a nice way to finish end of the last coil as well

 

[NutSAK]

I see the ground flat finish that Nutsak mentioned. The spring tip is properly finished 👍
I've also seen where the spring machine tilts a top coil section inward. That's a nice way to finish end of the last coil as well

Yes that pic shows it pretty well. They don't seem to attack the negative PCB on protected batteries nearly as much as the unfinished ones. I bought some extras from Illumn several weeks ago, and they were all finished nice and flat like that.

The battery bumpers are included and installed in the MDC bodies I've bought in the past, but I haven't seen them included in any other Malkoff parts. I haven't bought a complete Malkoff light in ages though.

 

[Mr. LED]

Right with you on the mcclicky. Too sensitive, no travel, springy sound, lots of air in between boot & plunger. The latter can be eliminated with a spacer placed underneath the switch boot. To me the original surefire switches are still the gold standard. Sadly a standard Fury tailcap will not work on my MD2 with an 18650, only 16650. The newer fury tailcaps made for DF models dont even fit anymore.

I agree with you. A bigger problem for the 6P is that after installation, the switch touches the rubber boot, and because it's so sensitive and has no travel, in any way you touch the boot, including sideways, will activate the light. The click is loud with spring ping. Very bad. LF sells some hard press silicone boots, maybe they help.

On Malkoff lights, the McClicky sits slightly below the rubber boot, allowing for some travel before activation and reducing the problems mentioned before. I can live with the loud click and ping, because I like Malkoff lights and other switches won't fit.

The original Surefire are still the best clickies, not sensitive, have some travel before activation, low noise and reliable.

 

[Megalamuffin]

I agree with you. A bigger problem for the 6P is that after installation, the switch touches the rubber boot, and because it's so sensitive and has no travel, in any way you touch the boot, including sideways, will activate the light. The click is loud with spring ping. Very bad. LF sells some hard press silicone boots, maybe they help.

On Malkoff lights, the McClicky sits slightly below the rubber boot, allowing for some travel before activation and reducing the problems mentioned before. I can live with the loud click and ping, because I like Malkoff lights and other switches won't fit.

The original Surefire are still the best clickies, not sensitive, have some travel before activation, low noise and reliable.

So mcclicky's are too easily activated and have no momentary because of their sensitivity, but the malkoff ones solve this issue?

 

[Mr. LED]

So mcclicky's are too easily activated and have no momentary because of their sensitivity, but the malkoff ones solve this issue?

Kind of, on Malkoff bodies, the tail click sits between one and two millimeters below the rubber boot, so there's some boot travel until activation. Also, the tailcap design helps, the shrouded, tricap and the MDC (shrouded) bodies. Can't speak for the unshrouded, as I have never used them. I don't have problems with accidental activation or sensitivity. On the other hand, I tried on a 6P tailcap and was a no go.

 

[Megalamuffin]

Kind of, on Malkoff bodies, the tail click sits between one and two millimeters below the rubber boot, so there's some boot travel until activation. Also, the tailcap design helps, the shrouded, tricap and the MDC (shrouded) bodies. Can't speak for the unshrouded, as I have never used them. I don't have problems with accidental activation or sensitivity. On the other hand, I tried on a 6P tailcap and was a no go.

Thanks for the explanation. That'll save me the trouble of ever trying a mcclicky in a sf tailcap.

 

[strideredc]

Well, least it's not just me! I think I will go back to the original surefire plunger 🪠. Your right about it being better for multi mode lights/drop ins...

This one was from FM off a run he did manymany years back even though its "new" so I have no doubt its a genuine mc clicky (he states it was)

I have a few genuine g2x (latest surefire ones they sent me for free) maybe I could retrofit one of these? these feel solid and upto the job...

Shame none has come up with a better solution after all these years...

If I had a £1 ($ for most of you guys 😉 ) for every thread over the last 20 years that said its the best thing to do to a surefire lockout tail cap....

I was thinking of filling off a mill or two of the plunger to see if that helps? a stronger spri g would also help I think!

But yea, it didn't like the 2.6a I ran through it so much for 6a! I think not (on my exhaustive double blind peer reviewed study 🤔 😅 of "one"!)

As Olumin said , the plunger is the gold standard, the more you look at these old surefire lights the more you realise how good they were! long live surefire 1990's to the millennium series lights.... never to be repeated 😉

 

[Duster1671]

It seems I'm in the minority in my preference for McClicky switches over the stock SF ones. I have all my Z41 and Z57s converted, plus maybe a dozen other lights that came with the McClicky as standard equipment. No issues with any of them.

I did replace the Z57 boots with shorter Z52 boots to eliminate the gap.

 

[Dicaeopolis]

I have broken quite a few McClicky switches. One just last week after a drop. First time I broke one and the light stayed on. Usually they will just stop clicking and become a press and hold, but the light usually still worked. I really use my light a lot though at work and it suffers quite a few drops and flings. The switch if pretty inexpensive, if figure I can't expect it to last forever with rough use. Most lights I tried before Malkoff with McClicky at my job only lasted a couple months.