Sold/Expired Softstart / 3 level Incan Driver Switch For SF P/C/M series Tail Cap

got the clip for my 9P, works great, thanks AW!

AW,

These are so great I am going to have to get another one.

One B version with international shipping and tracking.

$49.00 + $3.00 + $3.00 = $55.00 total

Thanks,

Paul

strobe came on accidentally while flicking through modes!

is there a strobe option? and if so, how do you turn it on?

LIGHTSMAD said:

strobe came on accidentally while flicking through modes!

is there a strobe option? and if so, how do you turn it on?

Click to expand...

The following is from post #1:
- Flashing mode
- Simple UI ( click - ON ( low ) - Med - High - click & hold anytime - OFF - click & hold 1.5 seconds - Flashing )

senna94,

Order shipped. Thanks!

AW

BigusLightus for:

One Softstart / 3 level Incan Driver Switch for SF tail cap.
Version B
Registered shipping
Total $55

Thank you

I just got my switches today, thanks AW, and figured I'd try some different setups. I was able to open up my Nitrolon tailcaps using a new technique and the B switch fits like a dream and it's completely reversible. This nut has been cracked. (or how to gut a Nitrolon tailcap)

I was also able to put an A type switch into a SW02 tailcap. I'm still tweaking that one but it works as it should. On the SW02 I just had to boil the hell out of it. Two tries one for about 10 minutes the other for nearly 20. Then I used strap wrenches to unscrew the lower portion (part closest to the flashlight body) from the upper part with the finger grooves. Once that was apart the whole switch just unscrewed out of the upper part of the switch. It does have a very long plunger but wasn't a problem, I'm using an 8mm diameter dowel of ABS plastic. The main difficulty is the size of the module vs. the original SF one. I had to use 3 washers, one was plastic to keep the module from grounding on the switch case top, to push the module down toward the flashlight body. I also inverted the brass ring so that the wider part is toward the spring. (added photos)

(you can see the brass ring of the switch mates with the lower part of the SF tailcap)


(the 8mm dia. black plastic piston seen in the upper part of the tailcap)


(the switch and washers as it would sit in the tailcap with the piston in the foreground)




As for the LED setups I couldn't get it to work with a SF L6 running 3xCR123s. From the off position I could get it to cycle through the levels but when I tried to turn it off it only went into a very low output mode (lower than the normal low). After switching through the levels it would eventually stop changing and I had to back off the tailcap to reset. Also I didn't have any luck with single Li-ion LED setups. Both a Malkoff and a DX wouldn't work but a LF on 2 Li-ions did work.


-LT

1 x Mag D incan 1 x $75 $ 75
4 x Version B 4 x $49 $196
4 x IMR 18650 4 x $9.50 $ 38
1 x Nano Charger /2 LiIon AAA $ 15
Registered shipping $11.50

Total $335.50 + $8 for the Two 10440s below
Final Total $343.50:shakehead

- Items are in stock.
- Two 10440s is $8 more.
(Unique Transaction ID #9JL79863SG551730L)

Neale Fetterly

I'll take one Version B $49 + $3 ship = $52

Thanks!

Added photos of the SW02 mod to post 127.

-LT

Lunal_Tic said:

I was also able to put an A type switch into a SW02 tailcap ............-LT

Click to expand...

Great mod Lunal Tic. Please could you let us know what size of washers you have used and how long you have decided the plastic piston dowel should be.

nfetterly,
BSBG,

Orders shipped. Thanks!

Lunal_Tic : Good job :twothumbs


AW

One Softstart / 3 level Incan Driver Switch for SF-M4 tail cap.
Version B
Registered shipping
Total $55

Thank you sir!

brunt_sp said:

Great mod Lunal Tic. Please could you let us know what size of washers you have used and how long you have decided the plastic piston dowel should be.

Click to expand...

The washer stack is right at 5mm the piston is 15.55mm. I could stand to shave about 0.5mm off of both because fully assembled I can see a little bit of the o-ring between the upper part and lower part of the switch. I may sand a little off when I have time. For now it works fine. I've even whacked it a few times on different axis to see if anything lets loose.

When you are tightening the tailcap parts back together make sure to center the switch as you go. It's not the same diameter as the tailcap housing so it tends to go off to one side or the other. I also tapered the piston so it slips into the washer holes easily and took the edge off the top so it doesn't cut the rubber boot. One thing on the plastic washer, I actually made that out of a P.E.T. bottle and it has a slightly soft seal, the blue part that conforms/deforms to the soldered contacts on the switch.

This isn't as as slick as a straight drop-in from AW but it works and, for the whopping 24 hours I've tinkered with it, seems stable.

-LT

Anyone try to install one in RPM tailcap with trit slots?

I opened up one of them, to see if it would work, and it won't fit.

The RPM switch uses McClicky guts, which are much smaller in diameter, and there's what appears to be a press-fit collar inside the housing to reduce the diameter for the McClicky to fit.

donn_ said:

I opened up one of them, to see if it would work, and it won't fit.

The RPM switch uses McClicky guts, which are much smaller in diameter, and there's what appears to be a press-fit collar inside the housing to reduce the diameter for the McClicky to fit.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response Donn. I was really hoping these would work together.
:mecry:

LuxLuthor,

Order shipped. Thanks!

AW

Lunal_Tic said:

The washer stack is right at 5mm the piston is 15.55mm. I could stand to shave about 0.5mm off of both because fully assembled I can see a little bit of the o-ring between the upper part and lower part of the switch. I may sand a little off when I have time. For now it works fine. I've even whacked it a few times on different axis to see if anything lets loose.

When you are tightening the tailcap parts back together make sure to center the switch as you go. It's not the same diameter as the tailcap housing so it tends to go off to one side or the other. I also tapered the piston so it slips into the washer holes easily and took the edge off the top so it doesn't cut the rubber boot. One thing on the plastic washer, I actually made that out of a P.E.T. bottle and it has a slightly soft seal, the blue part that conforms/deforms to the soldered contacts on the switch.

This isn't as as slick as a straight drop-in from AW but it works and, for the whopping 24 hours I've tinkered with it, seems stable.

-LT

Click to expand...

Thanks for the measurements LT. I've done it and it works perfectly. I also found a small gap between the two parts of the tailcap so have reduced the number of metal washers to two. I then used double sided tape between each of them and between the plastic washer. Finally another piece of double sided tape holds the stack central in the tailcap. I've found 15.5 mm is a perfect length for the piston. (I used the end of a pencil because it was a perfect diameter and was already rounded at one end !).

brunt_sp said:

Thanks for the measurements LT. I've done it and it works perfectly. I also found a small gap between the two parts of the tailcap so have reduced the number of metal washers to two. I then used double sided tape between each of them and between the plastic washer. Finally another piece of double sided tape holds the stack central in the tailcap. I've found 15.5 mm is a perfect length for the piston. (I used the end of a pencil because it was a perfect diameter and was already rounded at one end !).

Click to expand...

Excellent! :thumbsup: I'm glad it worked out. A pencil, that's a great idea. My first iteration used a cut down chopstick. What light are you using this in? Mine is a 3x18650 Leef body, KT4 head with a FM adapter and WA1185.

Cheers,
-LT