Cutler
Newly Enlightened
I have been lurking for a while and decided to build my first "hotwire mod". I chose the Mag35W because it seemed to be a nice balance between performance and stability. I approached the project completely green but with extensive experience in metal fabrication.
The biggest trouble was that all descriptions of the various tricks and techniques assumed a higher level of experience with flashlight modifications than I possessed. My thanks to those of you who were patient with my noob questions in the PMs
As I would like to contribute to the forums, I will attempt to explain this modification so Noob Lurkers, that like myself are considering attempting a modification, can understand.
First, you need parts. It is really good that you can't get all of this in one place because then you don't see just how much this thing costs. The vendors listed are not necessarily the best or cheapest, but rather where I was able to locate the parts, that's all. The parts are the best I know of.
Got the Mag 2D body here; http://www.dlsenterprises.citymax.com/page/page/1718926.htm They do cheap custom engraving. I have "Mag35W" in old english engraved on the head.
Got the lens here; http://www.flashlightlens.com/products.htm get the 52.1 borofloat or UCL. I had considered getting 2 to account for breakage, but that was not necessary. These are tough and eerily transparent. Don't get fingerprints on it.
Got the bulbs here; http://www.servicelighting.com/catalog_product.cfm?prod=AL04424 These folks are in no hurry. This is the long lead item. I haven't looked anywhere else… I got 3 but I'm still on the first one some 6 hours? later. Don't get fingerprints on these either.
Got the 6-aa/2D series adapter here; https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/96929 You should bridge the little springs with copper. Someone posted that the little springs can go incandescent. I believe it. I used desoldering wick. It's pretty obvious where to solder, a search of the forums will bring up some links.
Got the MOP reflector here; http://www.light-edge.com/products.asp?section=Mag Reflectors&cat=42 You will need to ream out the opening to accept the bulb. I used a 7/16 drill and got it a little big. I would get my hands on a taper reamer and hand fit it. You might try the stippled or HOP, mine has a few artifacts in the beam, compared to my nuwai and SFs. I can live with them. No fingerprints here either.
Got the fixture here; https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/104816 Follow the assembly instructions link and do it the "simple" way, using the retaining spring to hold the lamp in place. The stock switch comes out by sticking a long allen wrench down through the button and loosening a set screw. Be gentle with the spring clip, I had to look for 30 minutes to find mine after it got away. I cut down the stock fixture with a wire saw and a sharp knife. This is the only spot where you need some soldering skill. Just be aggressive and work fast and it comes out fine. Use a little finesse and trial and error to set the length so that the reflector just clears the fixture when all the way tightened. I like this fixture replacement because these lights get (literally) smoking hot. Using the stock fixture with potted bulbs is asking for a meltdown.
I got the batteries here; http://cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=512304&pgid=loosecells get the cbp 1650s. Don't be tempted to get a bigger battery, you need these for the discharge rate. You will need a smart charger, one that works on voltage/current and not a timer. I got one that charges individual cells because I knew I was going to do some mods that involved different sized cells. http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2107 You will also need some 3/16 x 1/16 and 3/16 x 1/32 magnets for the charger and adapter to make a button on the positive end. http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10 get a bunch, they tend to fly away and get lost. I may attempt an on-board charge mod with a pack charger. Later.
Hose down all contacts with contact cleaner and contact protector. Available at you local electronics store.
Once you get it all assembled, you will be surprised at how much light comes out of it. I was most surprised by the color. This is the whitest incandescent I have, including my SFs. I carry this on my pre-dawn walk and have had cars flash their high beams at me! The modified light seems to weigh less than the stock 2D light.
After I got mine working, I got in touch with Modamag and asked him to build a 4D extension so that I could run my switch/head configuration with 6 10000mah D cells. These run the light significantly brighter and for 2+ hours on a charge. But the light weighs over 4 pounds. Good for the truck.
This is now an exceptional light. High on the "wow, that's bright" AND on functionality.
Good luck! Let me know if I missed anything.
The biggest trouble was that all descriptions of the various tricks and techniques assumed a higher level of experience with flashlight modifications than I possessed. My thanks to those of you who were patient with my noob questions in the PMs
As I would like to contribute to the forums, I will attempt to explain this modification so Noob Lurkers, that like myself are considering attempting a modification, can understand.
First, you need parts. It is really good that you can't get all of this in one place because then you don't see just how much this thing costs. The vendors listed are not necessarily the best or cheapest, but rather where I was able to locate the parts, that's all. The parts are the best I know of.
Got the Mag 2D body here; http://www.dlsenterprises.citymax.com/page/page/1718926.htm They do cheap custom engraving. I have "Mag35W" in old english engraved on the head.
Got the lens here; http://www.flashlightlens.com/products.htm get the 52.1 borofloat or UCL. I had considered getting 2 to account for breakage, but that was not necessary. These are tough and eerily transparent. Don't get fingerprints on it.
Got the bulbs here; http://www.servicelighting.com/catalog_product.cfm?prod=AL04424 These folks are in no hurry. This is the long lead item. I haven't looked anywhere else… I got 3 but I'm still on the first one some 6 hours? later. Don't get fingerprints on these either.
Got the 6-aa/2D series adapter here; https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/96929 You should bridge the little springs with copper. Someone posted that the little springs can go incandescent. I believe it. I used desoldering wick. It's pretty obvious where to solder, a search of the forums will bring up some links.
Got the MOP reflector here; http://www.light-edge.com/products.asp?section=Mag Reflectors&cat=42 You will need to ream out the opening to accept the bulb. I used a 7/16 drill and got it a little big. I would get my hands on a taper reamer and hand fit it. You might try the stippled or HOP, mine has a few artifacts in the beam, compared to my nuwai and SFs. I can live with them. No fingerprints here either.
Got the fixture here; https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/104816 Follow the assembly instructions link and do it the "simple" way, using the retaining spring to hold the lamp in place. The stock switch comes out by sticking a long allen wrench down through the button and loosening a set screw. Be gentle with the spring clip, I had to look for 30 minutes to find mine after it got away. I cut down the stock fixture with a wire saw and a sharp knife. This is the only spot where you need some soldering skill. Just be aggressive and work fast and it comes out fine. Use a little finesse and trial and error to set the length so that the reflector just clears the fixture when all the way tightened. I like this fixture replacement because these lights get (literally) smoking hot. Using the stock fixture with potted bulbs is asking for a meltdown.
I got the batteries here; http://cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=512304&pgid=loosecells get the cbp 1650s. Don't be tempted to get a bigger battery, you need these for the discharge rate. You will need a smart charger, one that works on voltage/current and not a timer. I got one that charges individual cells because I knew I was going to do some mods that involved different sized cells. http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2107 You will also need some 3/16 x 1/16 and 3/16 x 1/32 magnets for the charger and adapter to make a button on the positive end. http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10 get a bunch, they tend to fly away and get lost. I may attempt an on-board charge mod with a pack charger. Later.
Hose down all contacts with contact cleaner and contact protector. Available at you local electronics store.
Once you get it all assembled, you will be surprised at how much light comes out of it. I was most surprised by the color. This is the whitest incandescent I have, including my SFs. I carry this on my pre-dawn walk and have had cars flash their high beams at me! The modified light seems to weigh less than the stock 2D light.
After I got mine working, I got in touch with Modamag and asked him to build a 4D extension so that I could run my switch/head configuration with 6 10000mah D cells. These run the light significantly brighter and for 2+ hours on a charge. But the light weighs over 4 pounds. Good for the truck.
This is now an exceptional light. High on the "wow, that's bright" AND on functionality.
Good luck! Let me know if I missed anything.
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.. slight edge in voltage is what blows bulbs.. the eneloops sound even better. 
and unable to use Paypal makes it all moot.
