DIY HDS EDC upgrade

[Billson]

I was playing around with a UWOJ I got from Photonfanatic wondering what I can do with it when it suddenly occurred to me to see if I could take apart my U60GT to swap out the led.

In retrospect, I don't know why it never occured to me to take pictures but it's easy enough to understand the steps required even without pictures.

I first unscrewed the lens and took out the reflector to look at the insides of the light. I saw that the led module unscrews from the rear so I took out the battery and used snap ring pliers to try and unscrew the module. Surprisingly, it moved easily. Seems HDS doesn't use loctite like Arc did or at least mine didn't. The module is a one-piece sealed round cylinder with the led seated in a machined slot where it fits snugly and centers itself. I just desoldered both wires and the led popped off quite easily. Only thermal paste was used so I guess the design uses the reflector to press the led onto the module for proper thermal contact. I just had to drop in the UWOJ led and soldered both leads.

Putting the light back together was just as easy. Just screw the module back into the light. Put in the reflector, lens and screw in the retaining ring.

I'm still kicking myself for not thinking of taking a lux reading before attempting the mod to compare the readings before and after. I guess I never thought it would be this easy. I also saw no point in taking a picture of the beamshot since I have nothing to compare it to. Using my eyes to gauge the difference, I'm pretty sure it's brighter and definitely whiter. Even at the lower levels it seems brighter with barely noticeable hint of tint.

With this result, I'm guessing my light originally had a TWOJ led in it because I got almost the same runtime. I actually got a few minutes more with the UWOJ so this led probably had a lower vf than the one I swapped out. I think I'll to do a burn-in to see if the vf drops some more. Since the EDC is rated based on lumens, I've always assumed the EDC is calibrated by setting the required current until the rated lumens is achieved. If the led is swapped out with a lower vf bin, it should run longer. Can anyone confirm this? If this is so, I wonder what will happen if I buy a 42xr and swap in a UxxJ? Hmm.:thinking:

 

[AuroraLite]

Thanks for writing it up, I don't have one but am planning to get one. And if the HDS is a modable light, more bonus to the purchase. Just out of curiosity, when approximately did you make your purchase? Will the recent products easier to take apart?

 

[Billson]

I bought my light sometime at the end of last year. It's the newer design with the removable reflector but I don't know if it's been redesigned since then.

The led is the only part that you can safely remove/replace. Henry says the module is potted so attempting to open it would most probably result in destroying the electronics.

I don't know if new lights come from the factory without loctite because I've already sent my light back to HDS for repairs a few months ago but they were unable to fix the problem so I figured I had nothing to lose by attempting to do it myself.

 

[jar3ds]

holy smokes! This is suprisingly the first info i've seen on how to take out the module of the HDS...

can you take pics of the process?

 

[AuroraLite]

Bill,

So the reflector could also be removed from the front after removing the retaining ring, right? And if you don't mind, what's the problem that we are trying to fix when the light was sent back to HDS?

Thanks for the info! :thumbsup:

 

[xpitxbullx]

Did you swap a star or an emmiter? I have some U-bins on the way, also.

Jeff

 

[chesterqw]

anyone thinks modding a hds basic 42 with some GOOD lux III will improve the light output? like for example, a lux III with a bin that can put out 60 to 80 lumen?

 

[Planterz]

I thought I remembered reading that each HDS light's circuitry was individually tuned to the LED inside. I'm not saying that modding with a more powerful LED is a bad thing, but it might not do what you're expecting or have predictable results.

 

[W4DIZ]

I wonder what would happen if you put a LuxV in it.

 

[jar3ds]

I wonder what would happen if you put a LuxV in it.

is it even possible to luxV it? Would a diff reflector be needed... and would the input voltage be enough? i'm sure you'd get CRAZY runtimes

 

[xochi]

I bet the ultimate LED swap for these lights would be to take the low end basic 42 model and swap in a S bin luxI. I bet you'd end up with better runtimes and brightness than any of the 60 lumen models.

 

[jar3ds]

I bet the ultimate LED swap for these lights would be to take the low end basic 42 model and swap in a S bin luxI. I bet you'd end up with better runtimes and brightness than any of the 60 lumen models.

i've always heard/thought that there wasn't any differance between the Lux1's and the lux3's... only that the lux3's are brighter and are driven harder...

can a lux1 handle the max output?

 

[GhostReaction]

with all this HDS mod talking, it sounds to me that the different model of HDS; 42, 60, 85 and XRs are just different emitter in the same light :thinking:

 

[xochi]

Perhaps I was a tad enthusiastic about an S bin lux I in a b42. I think that the difference between the 42's and 60's is max drive current, I could be wrong but that makes the most sense to me. If that is the case then a luxI in the 42 would be overdriven. The lux I is rated at 350 ma (s = 51-67 lumens at this current) so if the max drive current of the HDS 60 model is spec (IIRC- 700ma - please correct me on this) then the HDS 42 max current should be somewhere around 400-600 ma (total speculation here). The Sbin 1 watters have proven themselves very efficient- sometimes just as efficent at the upper drive currents as T or U bins lux3's. At that level of overdrive the life would be shortened some and I'd just guess you'd get at least 60 lumens.

IIRC, the die of the lux1 is smaller than the lux3 so there would be changes in the beam.

I think that swapping the emitter in a b42 with a sbin lux1 is certainly the most interesting upgrade. Changeing out the emitter in the 60's really isn't worth the effort since you only stand to loose warranty protection for a gain that can barely be percieved.

 

[xochi]

One thing I didn't think of is if an overdriven lux1 would kick in the thermal protection quicker. I don't know.

 

[leukos]

Xochi,

I doubt HDS drive levels are all that different between the 42 and 60 models. From runtime tests, they still seem to run for similar amounts of time on the same batteries.

 

[xochi]

Hey Leukos,

Are you saying that at a given level , with the b42 level 1 corresponding to b60 level 2, the runtimes are very similar? I couldn't find much b42 runtime info but the few I found seems to support this. If that is the case, that b42 runtimes on level 1 roughly correspond to b60 runtimes on level 2, I would expect that the drive current of the b60 on level 2 and the drive current of the b42 on level one are the same.

This is an ideal situation for creating a b42 with an sbin lux1 that puts out about the same amount of light as the b60 on max. Unless the difference is entirely related to pwm, which I don't think it is , the B42 would be great for an sbin 1 watt since it wouldn't overdrive the LED quite as much as the 60 would.

 

[xochi]

I just ordered a b42 on sale from lighthound and 2 sxoh lux1 emitters from photonfanatic (hope he still has some) to try the led swap. Here are the numbers quoted from McGizmos IS tests of various leds and a SX1J Lux1 from ledsupply.

Begin McGizmo Quote:

Unfortunately, I didn't keep the Excel Spread Sheet used or I could have just added the S bin sample to the rest. :shrug:

So what I measured on the S sample follows:

If (mA)****** Vf********** Lumens

100 ---------- 3.0-------------- 17
200 ---------- 3.2-------------- 33
300 ---------- 3.3-------------- 46
350 ---------- 3.3-------------- 51
400 ---------- 3.4-------------- 56
500 ---------- 3.5-------------- 65
600 ---------- 3.5-------------- 74
700 ---------- 3.6-------------- 81
800 ---------- 3.6-------------- 88
900 ---------- 3.7-------------- 94
1000 --------- 3.8-------------- 98

It is really important to keep in mind that these measurements are reasonable in terms or relative comparisons among the samples tested but as to how representative any one of these LED's is of its brother bin members, well, your guess is as good as mine. This particular S bin held its own against the measured competiton but did not win in any category; nor did it loose!
__________________

End McGizmo Quote.

Judging from Gransees integrating sphere tests of popular lights the output of the b42 roughly corresponds to a 500 ma drive current and at 500 ma the SX1J tested by McGizmo in his integrating sphere was 65 lumens.

So long as it doesn't kill it, the H vf lux1 should perform a bit better than the J tested. The only bummer I can think of is that these emitters will likely (as Newbie said via pm) shift towards the blue and I would have liked to have started with a much warmer tint. I'm also sure that McGizmos numbers in his IS are likely totally exposed and very well heatsinked so the losses from lens and heat and reflector may make it a wash. The B42's are said to have lower quality emitters though.

Unfortunately, I have no lightmeter to measure real gains and have to eyeball it and compare vs other lights to see if it is worth it.

 

[Billson]

can you take pics of the process?

So the reflector could also be removed from the front after removing the retaining ring, right? And if you don't mind, what's the problem that we are trying to fix when the light was sent back to HDS?

jar3ds, AuroraLite

I'll try to take it apart again when I have time and take some pictures but the process is pretty straightforward. The parts should come out in this order: retaining ring, lens, oring, reflector.

I believe the original batch had an integrated reflector machined into the head. Only sure way to find out is to remove the retaining ring and lens to look for yourself.

The problem with my light was it wouldn't come on when I loosened the retaining ring. Henry said there was probably something wrong with the led so he asked me to send it to him then sent it back to me saying they couldn't find anything wrong with it but I was able to repeat the problem on my 1st attempt. Due to my location, sending the light on a round trip back and forth cost me around $40 using trackable postage so I figured if I had to send it back again and they still didn't find the problem, I would've been better off just buying a new light.

I told myself I had nothing to lose by attempting to swap the led myself. If I somehow managed to screw it up, I'll just send my light to Henry which I'd eventually have to do anyway if I left as it is.

Did you swap a star or an emmiter? I have some U-bins on the way, also.

Jeff,

It's an emitter. There's a milled slot where it seats perfectly with no need for centering or fiddling with. Just put thermal paste and slot it in. My UWOJ was also a star. It's pretty easy to remove the emitter but you need to desolder the leads(don't cut) because you need the full length of the leads for attachment to the module's leads.

 

[Billson]

anyone thinks modding a hds basic 42 with some GOOD lux III will improve the light output? like for example, a lux III with a bin that can put out 60 to 80 lumen?

I thought I remembered reading that each HDS light's circuitry was individually tuned to the LED inside. I'm not saying that modding with a more powerful LED is a bad thing, but it might not do what you're expecting or have predictable results.

Disclaimer: This is just my opinion so please don't take it as fact. I'm just making assumptions based on limited experience with my own light after making the modifications.

Like Planterz said, the circuitry is tuned to the particular led attached to it but I don't think it's as complicated as it sounds. I'm guessing after attaching the led, the current is increased until the brightness reaches the required lumens but there is an upper current limit or else the runtime will be compromised. If the max current is reached without the light achieving the target lumens, then the light is de-rated to a lower model.

Extrapolating from the performance difference on my light before and after modding, I'm guessing the 60 is using TxxJ, 60XR TxxH, 85 UxxJ, 85xr UxxH.

I wonder what would happen if you put a LuxV in it.

I don't think I'd be willing to risk that. Since the HDS is using a buck/boost circuit, there might be a max limit for the output voltage just like the max input voltage. If so, putting in a lux V might cause the boost circuit to self-destruct in trying to reach the required voltage needed by the lux V.