DIY HDS EDC upgrade

[mcmc]

I can notice a difference, and I think if I sanded down the reflector even more (I took off about .6~.7mm but even so, there's still a donut about 7 inches out, unlike stock which is like < 1 inch out), I'd get an even hotter hotspot. Compared to my U-bin U60, it's got a hotter hotspot (by moving the hotspots into each other and seeing if it looked brighter or the same) and a brighter spill.

I think majr was responding to my question - which is good, I guess that black gunk was there just to help hold the led or something?

 

[boef800]

White wall hunting is fine but you won't see the difference indoors. 100lm indoors will blind you slightly to the point where you won't notice the difference. Take it outside and try to light up something you've lit up before and you'll see what I mean.

know what you mean.but I compare anyway by shining at certain spots in the nightly garden.

 

[majr]

mcmc - Thats right, I was saying that the black junk removal made no difference, I put some silacone sealant in there after the first swap, but not after that, since i like to swap emmiters so frequently.
And YES I notice a quite a bit of difference with different emmiters in the light, CREE XRE is my favorite so far.

 

[rmcnelly]

I'm interested in doing the SSC mod to my U60GT. From what I've read here, it's as simple as removing the module, desoldering the stock emitter, soldering in the new one, and maybe sanding the reflector down some.

I'm confused about all the SSC's for sale. Which one do I order?

 

[rmcnelly]

Just found this thread:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=152596

 

[mcmc]

majr - did you do anything else to the reflector w/ the Cree? do you like it b/c of the color, or output?

rmcnelly - any ssc you find should be fine. the U-bin P4 is the brightest available right now.

 

[rmcnelly]

rmcnelly - any ssc you find should be fine. the U-bin P4 is the brightest available right now.

Thanks!

 

[majr]

I used a cutdown bored out IMS20 with the CREE, it could throw much better than stock, although the beam pattern wasnt quite as nice as the stock lux3/reflector setup due to it not being perfectly centered when I soldered it down. I raised the base of the CREE up with an aluminum piece and clipped the pcb down to fit. At some point I will put the CREE in with the stock reflector and compare it to the SSC P4 mod, but from memory the CREE seemed brighter. And I liked the output, the WC color bin CREE is a bit cool for my taste, the UV0J had the most flawless color, the USV0I SSC is second best for tint.

 

[Utik]

How do you determine how deeply to screw the emitter package back into the light?

Since the guts can come out either end, do you:
1) Screw it back in further than you need.
2) Put in the reflector, o-ring, lens and bezel ring.
3) Go in from the bottom and screw the guts down tight against the reflector.

I hope I am making sense.

 

[mcmc]

Utik, the guts can actually only come out the back end (toward the battery) - I just accessed the led itself from the front. The reflector/o-ring/lens can only come out the front (bezel end). So, there really isn't much choice =)

The led module is screwed in all the way - the reflector was designed to sit right up against the led. Focus is achieved on mods, by sanding down the back of the reflector.

 

[Billson]

I just modded my HDS again with a Seoul P4 USXOI from AW. It was easier than I thought. Took me less than 10 minutes from start of disassembly to having it completely put back together. It took me longer to clean the lens and reflector of the dust that got in there while doing the mod. At first I didn't think it was possible because I never expected the led dimensions to be exactly the same. Even the reflector fitted exactly on top of the dome like it was made for it.

I didn't bother sanding off the bottom of the reflector because I actually like the resulting beam better than the original. It's more floody with a brighter side spill compared to before with the transition from hotspot to spill being a lot more smooth and even.

The tint is perfect. Snow white. Next to my room CFL, the CFL actually looked a bit green.

I have my light set to level 1, 3, 6, & 16. One weird thing I noticed is that the led won't light at level 14 and above. Just a faint glimmer at the die. At level 13, it has a very noticeable flickering. I wonder if this is unique to my led only or maybe the P4 needs a higher current to work properly. Does the P4 have a minimum current to start working as it should?

 

[tebore]

I just modded my HDS again with a Seoul P4 USXOI from AW. It was easier than I thought. Took me less than 10 minutes from start of disassembly to having it completely put back together. It took me longer to clean the lens and reflector of the dust that got in there while doing the mod. At first I didn't think it was possible because I never expected the led dimensions to be exactly the same. Even the reflector fitted exactly on top of the dome like it was made for it.

I didn't bother sanding off the bottom of the reflector because I actually like the resulting beam better than the original. It's more floody with a brighter side spill compared to before with the transition from hotspot to spill being a lot more smooth and even.

The tint is perfect. Snow white. Next to my room CFL, the CFL actually looked a bit green.

I have my light set to level 1, 3, 6, & 16. One weird thing I noticed is that the led won't light at level 14 and above. Just a faint glimmer at the die. At level 13, it has a very noticeable flickering. I wonder if this is unique to my led only or maybe the P4 needs a higher current to work properly. Does the P4 have a minimum current to start working as it should?

I don't know if this helps. But the VF binning is very good on the SSC parts in the sense that they are very accurate. So if the regulation lowers both current and voltage at the lower levels then there's not enough Vf to get enough current through. I've tested 3 LEDs and they all require at least 3volts to get going. Where with a J-bin vf luxeons they can get started with 2.4v.

 

[kfiducia]

Mine works normally on all of the levels that I have tried, including a click then press which causes the die to glow a little bit on the lux3, but the seuol and cree give quite a bit more, just enough light to kinda be useful in pitch black with night adapted eyes.
-majr

 

[aceo07]

I just modded my HDS again with a Seoul P4 USXOI from AW. It was easier than I thought. Took me less than 10 minutes from start of disassembly to having it completely put back together. It took me longer to clean the lens and reflector of the dust that got in there while doing the mod. At first I didn't think it was possible because I never expected the led dimensions to be exactly the same. Even the reflector fitted exactly on top of the dome like it was made for it.

I didn't bother sanding off the bottom of the reflector because I actually like the resulting beam better than the original. It's more floody with a brighter side spill compared to before with the transition from hotspot to spill being a lot more smooth and even.

The tint is perfect. Snow white. Next to my room CFL, the CFL actually looked a bit green.

I have my light set to level 1, 3, 6, & 16. One weird thing I noticed is that the led won't light at level 14 and above. Just a faint glimmer at the die. At level 13, it has a very noticeable flickering. I wonder if this is unique to my led only or maybe the P4 needs a higher current to work properly. Does the P4 have a minimum current to start working as it should?

I also used the USXOI in my HDS and my previous settings were also 1,3,6,16. Since the upgrade, I've changed it to be 1,4,8,17.

I don't know what could be happening to your led. Maybe you could out it up again and check everything. I was able to go through all the levels and noticed the brightness levels change.

I love how the brightness levels are spaced so that I can actually tell the difference.

 

[Christoph]

I just did my B42 with a USWOI and there is avery noticable flicker at the second lowest level and just a dim flickering glow at the lowest level.I think I measured 2.75v across the led.It will be comming out tomorrow.I think I read on it when I first took it apart that it had a QWOH in it I have a SWOH I will try in it but dagone it the P4 was so much brighter on the highest level it blew away my Spy005 on 6 where before it was at level 4-5.

C:sigh:

 

[Christoph]

I just put in a USXOH P4 and now all the levels are rock steady.I can not believe how much brighter it is now and about as white as any thing I have.It makes all my WO luxes look buttery.

 

[GLADIUSX1]

Billson.Your flicker on the higher settings is likely to the fact that the slug is positive and needs to be isolated .it is grounding out(positive to neg)on the mounting surface..you need to epoxy the p4 with ARCTIC ALUMINA EPOXY AS IT IS SHORTING OUT AT HIGHER VOLT.REDO THE WORK OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE P4.it won't heat sink and you will get a colour shift to green and will burn out .
GLADIUSX1

I just modded my HDS again with a Seoul P4 USXOI from AW. It was easier than I thought. Took me less than 10 minutes from start of disassembly to having it completely put back together. It took me longer to clean the lens and reflector of the dust that got in there while doing the mod. At first I didn't think it was possible because I never expected the led dimensions to be exactly the same. Even the reflector fitted exactly on top of the dome like it was made for it.

I didn't bother sanding off the bottom of the reflector because I actually like the resulting beam better than the original. It's more floody with a brighter side spill compared to before with the transition from hotspot to spill being a lot more smooth and even.

The tint is perfect. Snow white. Next to my room CFL, the CFL actually looked a bit green.

I have my light set to level 1, 3, 6, & 16. One weird thing I noticed is that the led won't light at level 14 and above. Just a faint glimmer at the die. At level 13, it has a very noticeable flickering. I wonder if this is unique to my led only or maybe the P4 needs a higher current to work properly. Does the P4 have a minimum current to start working as it should?

 

[tebore]

Billson.Your flicker on the higher settings is likely to the fact that the slug is positive and needs to be isolated .it is grounding out(positive to neg)on the mounting surface..you need to epoxy the p4 with ARCTIC ALUMINA EPOXY AS IT IS SHORTING OUT AT HIGHER VOLT.REDO THE WORK OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE P4.it won't heat sink and you will get a colour shift to green and will burn out .
GLADIUSX1

You need to know what you're talking about

Tebore.

 

[GLADIUSX1]

I ALREADY DO.YOU NEED SOME EXPLAINING .I HAVE ALREADY GONE THROUGH ALL THE PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS.SO EXPLAIN YOURSELF IN DETAIL.SO WE KNOW THAT YOU HAVE ALL THE ANSWERS.DON'T BE RUDE :thumbsdowTILL YOU HAVE ALL THE FACTS.
GLADIUSX1

You need to know what you're talking about

Tebore.

 

[tebore]

I ALREADY DO.YOU NEED SOME EXPLAINING .I HAVE ALREADY GONE THROUGH ALL THE PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS.SO EXPLAIN YOURSELF IN DETAIL.SO WE KNOW THAT YOU HAVE ALL THE ANSWERS.DON'T BE RUDE :thumbsdowTILL YOU HAVE ALL THE FACTS.
GLADIUSX1

I'm not so sure you know what you're talking about. You come in and act like you know all about the SSC emitter and the HDS. Talking in all caps makes you more knowledgable how? You and half the people who attempted the SSC emitter swap already know about the slug. Billison was a pioneer in the HDS emitter swap. I wrote a tutorial on how to do the swap. Do you even own an HDS?

If you took the time to learn you'll know the HDS' driver module is anodized. What this further means since you don't know is that positive slug is already isolated without using AA epoxy. You speak as if AA is optimal for heat transfer. Creating non-metal to metal contact should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.