its here !!!

wquiles

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Of course, everything is filled with heavy "goop" (transport grease):
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Somebody had said that only the Lathemaster machine had the hardened ways - not so. This is even more proof that it is the same identical machine:
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Unlike the 7x12, the motor on this thing is pretty large:
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The tool box had wrenches, belts, and the metal gears (which I will probably not use much since I am converting this to variable speed shortly):
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This 8x12 thing is not just a few more inches than the 7x12. This is "much" larger in size and weight!. In both photos the tape measure is at 12" inches, and although it is hard to appreciate, the 8x12 is just a much beefier machine - the carriage, the thread screw, etc., everything seems/looks huge in comparison to my 7x12. I will try to do more side-by-side photos later on:
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Everything looks in great shape except for this. This screw held the tailstock in place - it fell off on the way to my home, but nothing but a minor paint scratch resulted from it:
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Here it waits until I can spend time on the conversion:
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Last edited:

will

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PEU said:
Congrats!

now for the cleaning part arm yourself with gloves, brushes, gasoline and lots of patience :)


Pablo

I have used gasoline in the past to clean up grease, It does work fast. I only used it outside, For any inside cleaning - I use kerosene, there are probably water based cleaners as well.

The lathe I have suggests Mobil One oil and white lithium grease on the various parts.

best of luck with the new toy - be careful, be safe...
 

MoonRise

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Congrats on the new lathe.

I'm sure that I had previously written something to the effect that the 8x12/14 lathe could eat the 7x lathes for lunch. Little lathe = 80 pounds or so, 8x lathe = 230 pounds or so. That's a BBBBBBIIIIIIIIIIIIIGGGGGGGGGGGGG difference!

And your lathe has a "MOTOR", an AC electric motor to be specific. It does not have an 'engine'. The electric motor on the 8x lathe is -much- bigger than the motor on the typical 7x lathe, and AFAIK it is adequate for the lathe. But it still seems to be made with Chinese horses inside, and those Chinese horses are smaller than every other standard-sized horse(power) than in the rest of the world.
 

wquiles

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Thank you guys :)

It is too bad that the motor is an AC motor. For my conversion I need a DC motor, either 90 or 180 volts (my controller can handle either one up to 2HP). I am following a couple on Ebay, from 1/2 HP to about 1HP, that is of course "true" horse power motors from Baldor, Leeson, and a few other well known brands ;) . I am trying to stay away from the treadmill motors since those are not TEFC and are not rated for continuous duty :barf:

I am also putting a 6 inch independent 4-jaw chuck in this puppy, but I need to figure out the bolt pattern first at the spindle as I am considering making my own adapter "plate" right on the lathe itself. Does anyone know if it uses the same bolt pattern as my 7x12?

Will
 

matrixshaman

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Next - unless you have them - is just that one other little neccessity = $10,000 worth of bits and cutting tools etc. I'd like to have a lathe but I think I'd go nuts or go broke buying all the accessories needed.
 

modamag

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Will, congrats on the new toy/tool. I C you're trying to do the "correct" VFD. 2hp might be a little too much for the little guy. Heck even 1hp 220 AC is a bit much for him. But then again it's VFD.

As for your 4-Jaw adapter plate, it's not the same as the 7x12 TMK.
They're pretty easy to make if you have a face plate.
I have an extra one. I think :scratching head:
If you're interested drop me a PM.

If you still want to make it, let me know. I'll draw it up in couple days.
 

will

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Are you sitting down? Are you ready to cringe?


I probably didn't spend $10,000 for tooling, This is probably less than $75.00. I can do pretty much anything with this modest set of tools. The hex keys are hardened and with a little grinding make great boring bars. The small one in the front can be used for face grooves or boring small diameter holes. The internal threading tool is solid carbide (front right)

I work mostly with wood or aluminum, so I don't need carbide bits, I use mainly tool steel and grind my own profiles.

I worked as a machinist and learned a lot about tool making and grinding, even hand sharpening drill bits.


tools.jpg
 

modamag

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will, grinding is for "real" machinist.
For the wantabe (eg. self), carbide is the way to go :hehe:
 

will

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modamag said:
will, grinding is for "real" machinist.
For the wantabe (eg. self), carbide is the way to go :hehe:
I can get better relief angles with tool steel, that can result in a better machine finish. Here again - for aluminum and wood - this is fine, Now titanium and stainless that's another story...
 

gadget_lover

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Strictly speaking the "tooling", if restricted to bits and bars, is not too expensive. If you lump in the holders and other accessories, the price tag starts to climb. The cost climbs even quicker when you add in collets and chucks and DROs.


Daniel
 

will

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gadget_lover said:
Strictly speaking the "tooling", if restricted to bits and bars, is not too expensive. If you lump in the holders and other accessories, the price tag starts to climb. The cost climbs even quicker when you add in collets and chucks and DROs.


Daniel


that is very true..
 

kenster

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Nov 6, 2005
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Congrats! :) Very cool! :rock: I can see a few little differences compared to my Lathemaster but bassically the same Lathe it appears. Mine came with the same little tool box too but quite a bit less grease than yours to clean up.:grin2:

Ken
 

TranquillityBase

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Jun 12, 2005
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Mr. Will, you're the lathe photos master, thanks for sharing...It looks to be a very nice machine, can't wait to see your VS upgrade.

TB
 
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