Fenix L1Tv2 RB80 Rebel edition on loan courtesy of 4sevens (http://Fenix-Store.com)
Size -
about the same size as the Fenix L1D-CE if you take in the protruding rubber-boot of the L1Tv2 - both these are longer and wider than the original Luxeon III based L1T.
Note that protruding rubber-boot for the tail-switch on the L1Tv2 -
this is the good news - that's a normal forward (or "tactical") clicky - with a momentary on by half-depression - then full depression to click fully on. Since all 3 are in the "L" series the tailcaps are fully interchangeable - but the heads, and bodies are only interchangeable between the L1D and L1Tv2 - the original L1T head and body (at the head) are a different size/thread.
The Fenix L1Tv2 is like the original Fenix L1T in operation - where there are only two brightness levels selected by twisting (ie: tightening or loosening) the head.
Head -
shows the LumiLEDs Rebel LED is smaller than the Cree XR-E and even the Luxeon III. The Rebel edition uses a reticulated/orange-peel reflector and the what looks like a black surround to the LED is actually mirror/silver finish.
The heads of the "L" and "P" series (except for the original L1T) do fit on the other series bodies - so that this L1Tv2 RB80 head will fit on a P2D body -
However because of the voltage spec'd range the L1/2 heads should not be used on the P3D body even if it will fit as 6V is too high.
Also the tailcaps do not fit properly between the "L" and "P" series -
but to get the forward clicky on the "P" series - one can remove the forward clicky switch and boot from the "L" tailcap and fit them in the "P" tailcap.
Like many I really welcome the forward clicky - even if it seems that the tail-standing ability is lost.
However it is not all "good news" - for me the forward clicky is not as convenient/positive on the L1D/L2D - and I never thought I'd be saying a reverse clicky was "better".
Although I can get the forward clicky to work with the L1D/L2D - it is not as positive as the reverse clicky.
The operation on the Digital interface is to momentary switch (kind of tap - but needing more pressure/depression) to reach the wanted mode then fully depress to latch/click on.
However, this is easier said than done - as I find myself often jittering between release and momentary depression - probably because of the pressure needed for the momentary on - which sometimes misses/messes up switching between modes.
I'm sure more practice may make things better - but for me the forward clicky on the Digital series (L1D/L2D) is just not as positive or convenient as tapping the switch on the reverse clicky to change modes.
So maybe that's the reason Fenix held off introducing the forward clicky that the majority of CPF had been clamoring for almost from day 1 - and only used the new forward clicky on the L1Tv2 where one does not have to use the switch to change modes.
With that out of the way, how does the Fenix L1Tv2 RB80 perform?
vs. original Luxeon III based Fenix L1T both using NiMH on High -
pretty obvious that the new Rebel edition L1Tv2 RB80 is brighter - and perhaps with slightly better/smoother beam characteristics due to the reticulated/orange-peel reflector? Both tints are good.
vs. original Luxeon III based Fenix L1T both using NiMH on Low -
the Rebel edition L1Tv2 RB80 is a bit brighter - but that was the compalint about the original L1T - its low wasn't really low enough - I think people expressed they'd prefer a lower low with longer runtime.
OK, not really fair comparing a current LED with a previous generation - how about the Cree XR-E version -
High vs. Fenix L1D-CE on Turbo/max brightness both using NiMH -
hard call to make - probably comparable in total output - but the Fenix L1D-CE has a smaller side-spill - therefore more concentrated beam - so shows better in the -2 Stops exposure.
vs. Fenix L1D-CE both on Low
The low on the L1Dce is noticably lower than the low on the L1Tv2 RB80 - this is actually a good thing giving a more practical low level, and longer runtime on low.
(remember only the beams in the individual shots are directly comparable and are not for between other shots - as the full exposure shots are "optimized" for the beams in the shot, so maybe different exposures to other shots with different pair of beams.)
How "bright" is the Low on the L1Tv2 RB80 - is it as bright as the Medium level on the L1Dce?
Low vs. Fenix L1D-CE on Medium
in a word no, the low on the L1Tv2 RB80 is not as bright as the Medium on the L1Dce - and noticably so.
This Rebel edition L1Tv2 RB80 - may well be what a lot of people are looking for - a simpler 2 level light like the original L1T - updated to a higher efficiency Rebel LED. The forward clicky is a significant and welcome enhancement.
Size -
about the same size as the Fenix L1D-CE if you take in the protruding rubber-boot of the L1Tv2 - both these are longer and wider than the original Luxeon III based L1T.
Note that protruding rubber-boot for the tail-switch on the L1Tv2 -
this is the good news - that's a normal forward (or "tactical") clicky - with a momentary on by half-depression - then full depression to click fully on. Since all 3 are in the "L" series the tailcaps are fully interchangeable - but the heads, and bodies are only interchangeable between the L1D and L1Tv2 - the original L1T head and body (at the head) are a different size/thread.
The Fenix L1Tv2 is like the original Fenix L1T in operation - where there are only two brightness levels selected by twisting (ie: tightening or loosening) the head.
Head -
shows the LumiLEDs Rebel LED is smaller than the Cree XR-E and even the Luxeon III. The Rebel edition uses a reticulated/orange-peel reflector and the what looks like a black surround to the LED is actually mirror/silver finish.
The heads of the "L" and "P" series (except for the original L1T) do fit on the other series bodies - so that this L1Tv2 RB80 head will fit on a P2D body -
However because of the voltage spec'd range the L1/2 heads should not be used on the P3D body even if it will fit as 6V is too high.
Also the tailcaps do not fit properly between the "L" and "P" series -
but to get the forward clicky on the "P" series - one can remove the forward clicky switch and boot from the "L" tailcap and fit them in the "P" tailcap.
Like many I really welcome the forward clicky - even if it seems that the tail-standing ability is lost.
However it is not all "good news" - for me the forward clicky is not as convenient/positive on the L1D/L2D - and I never thought I'd be saying a reverse clicky was "better".
Although I can get the forward clicky to work with the L1D/L2D - it is not as positive as the reverse clicky.
The operation on the Digital interface is to momentary switch (kind of tap - but needing more pressure/depression) to reach the wanted mode then fully depress to latch/click on.
However, this is easier said than done - as I find myself often jittering between release and momentary depression - probably because of the pressure needed for the momentary on - which sometimes misses/messes up switching between modes.
I'm sure more practice may make things better - but for me the forward clicky on the Digital series (L1D/L2D) is just not as positive or convenient as tapping the switch on the reverse clicky to change modes.
So maybe that's the reason Fenix held off introducing the forward clicky that the majority of CPF had been clamoring for almost from day 1 - and only used the new forward clicky on the L1Tv2 where one does not have to use the switch to change modes.
With that out of the way, how does the Fenix L1Tv2 RB80 perform?
vs. original Luxeon III based Fenix L1T both using NiMH on High -
pretty obvious that the new Rebel edition L1Tv2 RB80 is brighter - and perhaps with slightly better/smoother beam characteristics due to the reticulated/orange-peel reflector? Both tints are good.
vs. original Luxeon III based Fenix L1T both using NiMH on Low -
the Rebel edition L1Tv2 RB80 is a bit brighter - but that was the compalint about the original L1T - its low wasn't really low enough - I think people expressed they'd prefer a lower low with longer runtime.
OK, not really fair comparing a current LED with a previous generation - how about the Cree XR-E version -
High vs. Fenix L1D-CE on Turbo/max brightness both using NiMH -
hard call to make - probably comparable in total output - but the Fenix L1D-CE has a smaller side-spill - therefore more concentrated beam - so shows better in the -2 Stops exposure.
vs. Fenix L1D-CE both on Low
The low on the L1Dce is noticably lower than the low on the L1Tv2 RB80 - this is actually a good thing giving a more practical low level, and longer runtime on low.
(remember only the beams in the individual shots are directly comparable and are not for between other shots - as the full exposure shots are "optimized" for the beams in the shot, so maybe different exposures to other shots with different pair of beams.)
How "bright" is the Low on the L1Tv2 RB80 - is it as bright as the Medium level on the L1Dce?
Low vs. Fenix L1D-CE on Medium
in a word no, the low on the L1Tv2 RB80 is not as bright as the Medium on the L1Dce - and noticably so.
This Rebel edition L1Tv2 RB80 - may well be what a lot of people are looking for - a simpler 2 level light like the original L1T - updated to a higher efficiency Rebel LED. The forward clicky is a significant and welcome enhancement.
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