Is there such thing as too much lube?

[Crenshaw]

Is there? they always say lightly lube your o rings, but are there bad side effects if you put too much..

and, is there any bad side effects with re lubing too often?

Crenshaw

 

[stevoman]

No, but it's more fun if it doesn't keep slipping out of your hand.

I can't believe I just typed that.

As long as the lube isn't actually preventing a good seal (like great big lumps of vaseline interfering with the position of the seal ring), I can't imagine it doing any harm.

Naturally, over lubing could get messy if you end up with lube dripping everywhere, and you don't want it getting into parts that don't need lube (lens, grip, passing midgets, etc)

 

[mraymer]

No, but it's more fun if it doesn't keep slipping out of your hand.

 

[jugg2]

No, but it's more fun if it doesn't keep slipping out of your hand.

I agree 100%!

But seriously, I have wondered this too. For example, Fenix multimode lights. The main contact is the threads, could too much lube cause a bad connection?

 

[Illum]

yes
giving everything a thick coat but not free flowing isn't bad for it [recommended if you take your lights for diving lessons]
ts bad when lube oozes out when you thread the tailcap back on....cuz that excess lube may be pushed into one of those very tight places and ruin your light. I destroyed A2 tailcaps like that before, where excessive lube was pushed/accumulated on the contacts and therefore breaking conduction

 

[chmsam]

Some potential problems with too much lube:

messy
gumming up, causing parts to bind
lube could start collecting dirt & grit
could interfere with electrical contacts
could make changing batteries difficult if they get gummed up

In short, use enough but not too much. Wipe off excess with a clean cloth.

 

[Zenster]

Some potential problems with too much lube:

...
lube could start collecting dirt & grit
...
In short, use enough but not too much. Wipe off excess with a clean cloth.

That's the single biggest reason to not over lubricate anything, including flashlights.
I've got lifetime experience using machines in my business, and the one thing I have to fight about with new helpers is to teach them how to lubricate moving machine parts properly.
Any grease beyond what is actually making contact between two surfaces is too much and will actually contribute to damaging the part(s) because dust of any kind that mixes with that surplus grease turns it into an abrasive compound.
That's also the reason why you don't wait until something "needs" greasing because by the time you determine it needs it (hard to turn or operate), it's too late and you're already causing wear damage.

The best way to do it is to use as little grease as possible but still be sure to thinly coat what needs coating which includes the o-rings. If done right, the area should look "slimy", but you shouldn't actually see any globs of grease, nor should you see any grease on parts that aren't involved in the contact area.
Then every once in a while (you determine that based on use), it's a good idea to wipe the area clean of all the previous grease and re-apply a new coat. Don't just add more grease because as previously mentioned, the older application may include dust contaminants and be serving as an abrasive more than a grease.

It's my job to keep $175k machines running all day everyday for years and years and years, and they have to be kept running well due to downtime costs if something quits working.
Keeping up on proper lubrication is the single most important way to do what I do, so I never over lube so much that something slips from my hand, nor do I under lube so little that friction and heat cause discomfort... er, damage.

 

[stevoman]

Build-up of dirt is a good point generally, as lube does attract it (see bicycle chains etc...), but inside a sealed waterproof unit, it should be much less of a problem than it would be for machine parts - the oil is doing a different job.

Best to clean out old lube though, especially if it starts to get dusty or gritty, otherwise it does become rather effective grinding paste.

 

[yaesumofo]

Actually use the least lube necessary. You don't want to have so much that it begins to form a GUNK layer.
Personally I completly remove all old lube and then add a thin layer of nano lube on threads and a mit of magnalube on the O-rins.
Ths works very well. As a result I have never had a premature o-ring failure and the threads on my flashlights are smooth and operate very well.
Nano lube literally requires less than a tiny drop to be effective. less is more with that stuff.
Yaesumofo

 

[DonShock]

....... For example, Fenix multimode lights. The main contact is the threads, could too much lube cause a bad connection?

I have had exactly this problem occur. I bought a Fenix from another member and the operation was very iffy when not in turbo mode with the head screwed down tight. The light was changing modes all on it's own. Since this normally only occurs by clicking the switch, I knew it had to be a contact issue. A little careful manipulation of the light suggested it was the body/head contact. Pulled off the head and it was very generously lubricated. I used a paper towel to remove most of the lube from the threads on both parts, reasssembled it, and it's been working reliably ever since.

 

[Hitthespot]

Too much lube can cause the exact opposite of why you placed it there to begin with, along with all the other problems mentioned.

My father is a classic example of "If a little will do good a lot will do better". I cannot tell you the problems he has had using this motto. Grease and Oils included. I seen his fishing reel fail (too much grease ) and his black powder rifles hammer fail to fall. ( too much grease ) Just to name a couple of examples.

Yaesumofo had it completely right. When using grease and oil; use the least amount to get the job done. You should also replace them at reasonable intervals.

Bill

 

[dudemar]

If you put too much it seeps out the tailcap/head, lol. Then you get a nice sheen of silicone lube on your hands, flashlight, clothes, everywhere. Gross!

I think re-applying lube every month or so is a great idea!:thumbsup:

Dudemar

 

[chmsam]

Check for more threads on cleaning and lubing with a search. There is a lot of information on this and related topics already.

My basic plan of action for lubes and cleaning is that on a regular basis (about once every six months to a year depending on how much use the light gets), I'll take the light apart. This means just a simple disassembling of the basic pieces and not prying everything completely apart. All parts get wiped down with a clean cloth used only for this purpose. If anything is very dirty or gunked up with old lube, I'll use a wooden toothpick and/or a cotton swab to remove the debris. The only solvents I use are isopropyl alcohol and White Lightning Clean Streak (removes lubes, degreases, etc. -- I do not use Clean Streak on o-rings).

I again wipe everything clean and swab out all areas as much as is practical. Electrical contacts including those on the batteries are treated with DeOxit Gold. I allow all contacts to dry thoroughly before starting to put things back together. I use only a pure silicone grease as a lube and I wipe off any excess with a clean cloth.

This is what works for me. My whole approach is guided by a philosophy of moderation, sticking to manufacturers' information and suggestions, and practical experience, with a dose of "do no harm and don't make it worse."

By the way, if you want to get a good idea of what can happen with a little more lube than you need, put a dab or two more than you need of molybdenum grease on something and then try to keep it from messing up everything you come in contact with for the rest of the day (or week).

 

[Uncle Bob]

I was trained to lightly lube my M-14 many years ago and I do the same to my Browning Hi-Power. Lightly lubing my lights is a natural extension of the principle of using just enough to get the job done. Overuse just gunks everything up.