2D Mag85 Questions

cat

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Re the voltage for 5761... some people said that the best is 6.9V, because of individual variation in 5761, and they when they get older they instaflash at V they were ok with when new.
 

RichS

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RichS, which reflector are you using with your 2C 5761?
I am using the FM MOP Cam/Camless reflector (w/out the cam installed).

I ordered a VLOP camless reflector for my new 3C Mag85 build from Litho123. I really liked the SMO in my old Mag85, so this will be very close. If I end up really liking it I may also get one for my Mag61.
 

cat

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Northern Lights favourite, what I did, use a smooth reflector and frost the bottom part of the 5761 bulb.
 

RichS

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Northern Lights favourite, what I did, use a smooth reflector and frost the bottom part of the 5761 bulb.
I'm not sure I understand the benefit of this. Forgive my ignorance, but wouldn't this make the spot nice and smooth but reduce the throw? I would think you would want throw if you are going with a SMO reflector, and since a hotspot is already very intense wouldn't it be more beneficial to smooth out the spill area? It sounds very intriging, but I'm not seeing the benefits.

Please enlighten me. :candle:
 

cat

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Find some Northern Lights posts on the 5761. He needs throw, so he uses smooth reflectors, and frosts the lower part of the bulb up to the level of the filament to reduce the "batwing" type artefacts. So, minimal light lost from the frosting, because the front of the bulb is not frosted.
[I think that doesn't sound very clear but find his posts and you'll see.]

Mine still has "batwings", though. I'm trying to decide between a HS and a MS reflector, before they're sold out. I do have a MOP, though, that I haven't tried yet.
 

RichS

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Find some Northern Lights posts on the 5761. He needs throw, so he uses smooth reflectors, and frosts the lower part of the bulb up to the level of the filament to reduce the "batwing" type artefacts. So, minimal light lost from the frosting, because the front of the bulb is not frosted.
[I think that doesn't sound very clear but find his posts and you'll see.]

Mine still has "batwings", though. I'm trying to decide between a HS and a MS reflector, before they're sold out. I do have a MOP, though, that I haven't tried yet.
Thanks, that does help. I can see how this would smooth out the hotspot, but I am thinking it would also somewhat reduce throw.

Also, I am familiar with the "batwing" shape, I get this with my TL-3/Carly H1499 hotwire. But I'm surprised to here you're getting this with your Philips 5761 mod. Mine is nice and round, with really no oval or "batwing" shape to it at all. I am using a MOP reflector, but I wouldn't think that would be enough to make it completely round. My TL-3 also has an OP reflector, and it has a very distinct batwing shape. I just took a couple of pics with my Mag61 and TL-3 pointed at the ceiling with me laying on the floor, so from about 8 feet so you can see the hotspot shapes I'm getting with each of these lights. Of course at a closer distance they would both look even more round, so this distance accentuates the hotspot irregularities.

Mag61 - Philips 5761 w/ FM MOP Reflector
2503348985_1e1fd8769b_o.jpg


Streamlight TL-3 w/ Carly H1499 OP
2503349229_6c343917ec_o.jpg

 

2xTrinity

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5761 Kai SMO vs MOP. Keep in mind that the fivemega MOP is actally somewhere in between these two (Kai is more heavily textured).

Note that in the case of the MOP, the host has lower resistance therefore runs significantly more lumens:

Click images to see full size:

LEFT: Kai SMO
RIGHT: Kai MOP

The "batwing" here is the shadow cast by the small posts that hold the filament in place. For a "throw" light I personally don't mind it -- If I'm actually trying to look at something far away, artifacts like that tend to disappear, anyway.


Kai MOP


Kai SMO
 
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