3D LED Maglite questions

C_Moore

Newly Enlightened
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Jun 20, 2009
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3
I have a 3D LED Maglite, and one of the prongs on the led broke off. It broke from me removing it multiple times to clean the area underneath the led, it would get a little corrosion under it.

So now I'm trying to figure out what to do with it. Malkoff drop in? Can I buy a new led by its self to replace it with and use the old parts?

Just trying to figure out the most cost effective way without sacrificing reliability or light output.
 
It depends on which led light you have. What kind of emitter is it? It should be either a rebel80 or a luxeon3(I think). I suppose you could swap it for a rebel100 or a ssc P4? I'm not sure the malkoff will work with the LED lights. Does it have the same plastic bulb tower setup as the incandescents?
 
do mag leds built the same way as incand?? cuz reflector looks deeper, i'm pretty sure cam is different too, not sure if any led retrofit for incand. mag would work with magled. but i might be wrong thou.

your best bet would be calling maglite and see if they can send you spare led.
 
MagLEDs are exactly the same as the incan versions dimensionally. The only difference is the drop-in bulb and the packaging. Of course this is not true of the mini-mags.
 
MagLEDs are exactly the same as the incan versions dimensionally. The only difference is the drop-in bulb and the packaging. Of course this is not true of the mini-mags.

yes dimensionally they are the same, but reflector is deeper and led sits deeper, that made me think internal cam might be different
 
I think the older Luxeons are a retrofit bulb with a driver built in. Something like the terralux drop-ins. Not really the greatest for heat.:shrug:
 
Welcome to CPF, C_Moore.

We have a forum called "LED", which is for discussions about the actual emitters, and a separate one for "LED Flashlights". The confusion is perfectly understandable, and I'm moving your thread to the LED Flashlights one.
 
The LED version is the same as the incan. Switch, tower, reflector, lens etc.

I'm not sure why the emitter would have came off in the first place, it is epoxied down to the base.

I can't think of a reason for there to be any corrosion under the emitter either, was it the thermal epoxy you were seeing?

I've upgraded many of these to an SSC and they were all stuck pretty well save one.

Look at this as an opportunity, save the emitter leg, order an SSC from PhotonFanatic, isolate and epoxy the SSC in place then solder the legs of the Lux-III onto the SSC.

Easy upgrade for twice the brightness with no loss of runtime.

-Michael
 
OK, I was going to post some pictures to show what I had, but can't figure out how to do it.

But I think what you are talking about texlite, sounds like a good idea.

What would I have to do make it run at 280 lumens? Sorry, I'm new to this stuff.
 
OK, I was going to post some pictures to show what I had, but can't figure out how to do it.

But I think what you are talking about texlite, sounds like a good idea.

What would I have to do make it run at 280 lumens? Sorry, I'm new to this stuff.

For $10.00 its a great upgrade. You won't be disappointed.

For 280lm, you would have to epoxy the emitter to a large heatsink. Even though the current generation of emitters should reach that flux or close to it at 1000mA, heat and optical losses would lower the output quite a bit.

It would be virtually impossible to sustain those drive levels and maintain acceptable die temperature in the MagLED module.

The best way to insure steady output in that lumen range would probably be to underdrive a quad die emitter.

-Michael
 
There are 2 different versions of the Mag LED on the market at the present time. The original MagLED is the same as the incan version, with an LED module that is interchangeable with the regular bulb. This is knows as the "Lux Version" because the Led is a Luxeon. There is also a newer "Rebel" version that, as you would guess, uses a Rebel LED. This one is NOT the same as the incan version and is not interchangeable with older, original MagLED ( but is interchangeable with the multi-mode LED MiniMag ). So...your options depend on what version of light you are trying to repair/upgrade.
 
There are 2 different versions of the Mag LED on the market at the present time. The original MagLED is the same as the incan version, with an LED module that is interchangeable with the regular bulb. This is knows as the "Lux Version" because the Led is a Luxeon. There is also a newer "Rebel" version that, as you would guess, uses a Rebel LED. This one is NOT the same as the incan version and is not interchangeable with older, original MagLED ( but is interchangeable with the multi-mode LED MiniMag ). So...your options depend on what version of light you are trying to repair/upgrade.

Actually, both versions are "Luxeon". There is no single emitter referred to simply as "Luxeon".

Luxeon is the manufacturer of both the "Rebel" and "Lux-III", which is the emitter in the original MagLED, as well as numerous other emitters such as the "Lux-I", "K2" and "Lux-V".

The OP stated he had broken one of the "legs" off the original emitter. The Rebel doesn't have legs, the Lux-III does.

The "Rebel" version is a recent release. He said he had removed the emitter several times already which would imply to me he had the light for a while.

The mention of breaking a leg off the emitter, which was the reason for the post in the first place, as well as the seeming length of ownership led me to the conclusion he had the Lux-III version.

Its possible he may have the Rebel version and broke one of the connectors of the bottom of the Star, but he said it broke off the "emitter", not the mounting star.

-Michael
 
It's the older one. The led assembly comes out so you can drop in the incan bulb.
 
thanks for the clarification. I didn't realize the rebel was made by Luxeon.

No problem.

It's the older one. The led assembly comes out so you can drop in the incan bulb.

If you decide to try the Seoul out from PF, order the Arctic Alumina Epoxy from him at the same time to avoid additional shipping charges. Unless you can pick some up locally. You'll need the AA to isolate as well as bond the emitter to the module.

-Michael
 
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