3x3W luxeon bikelight build

LEDBE
R

rocker_

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 9, 2008
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Starting a new LED light build. I'm planning on converting my old bike light to a LED one.
Bike light:
PICT0041.JPG


The plan is to remove everything in it and make an insert to fit 3x3W luxeon star diodes. Anyone know of good reflectors for these? Anyways the insert could look like this:
vy_iso.jpg
vy_side.jpg

Started manufacture on these last week and the following pictures shows some machining of the parts in the modell. I hope to get the diodes and finish manucaturing this week.
One piece of aluminum:
pict0024.jpg

Forming it to fit the inside of the bike light:
pict0032.jpg
pict0031.jpg


A hole is made on the inside to fit the 3x3W Luxeon diodes:
PICT0035.JPG


This is as far as i got tonight, but i hope to finish this week.
PICT0038.JPG
PICT0039.JPG
 
Yea, i guess it could be smaller... but it would be stupid to remove a bunch of material just for making it smaller... the bigger the better!
 
Looks really nice.

May I ask which Luxeon LEDs you are using?

Becuase if it is a Luxeon I or III, you can get double the output by using a Seoul P4 U-bin LED. This is because of the double in efficiency.

:welcome:
 
I'm using Luxeon III Stars, http://www.kjell.com/filarkiv/SUPPORTPDF/81-90/90/90600/90600.pdf

I already ordered them so i guess i'll have to use them. This is also my first light build so this project is firsthand to learn how to make lights by myself, but thanks for the tip... something to remember for my next build!

One thing that I do need help with is choosing lenses for my LEDs. I think i want lenses that will give me a good combination between a wide light and long one.
 
I think i'll go with the lense from molectric. Anyone think this light will be "too much" for other passing bikeriders? I might look into beeing able to turn of two of the lenses with somekind of a button on the handle.
 
nice build, but several design "critics" that only pose future problems to You.

1st of all: why not fit the sink + led + optics/reflectors INSIDE the old head (thats what Your idea sounded within the first sentences).
As the build is now, You dont get any benefit from using the old housing
:thinking:

while a good sink generally is ok, this one is way to overbuild!
In a bike light, one has much cold moving air and thus can skip a large amount of thermal mass. The key is to get a good and thick thermal path to the large surface of the housing.
... this sink is just heavy with no good surface to weight ratio - and the mounting part of the old housing will not support the weight.

As I have build a few similar mods (but dont have Your equipment to ease it), think of this idea:
when that housing is made from metal (looks like), make an alum. plate with thickness of 7-10 mm that fits inside the housing, mount emitters + optics/reflis on plate, mount it inside - with a bit of pressing in, put original front glass on --> ready.

There is even enough space behind the plate to put a circuit, switch, connections there.

How do You plan on powering it?
If dyno, the plate will be more than sufficient, if battery pack, add material - just in case.


PS, forgot the real important part:
SKIP THE LUX!!!
sure You have them ordered, but they are less than half as bright at the same current!
That difference simply can not be ignored ...
just be glad they are cheap now and You dont loose too much money :(
 
Last edited:
:welcome:

I think the IMS20 is the best option, I build a magmod with 4 K2, I try both, Lens and Optics, with the optics you have a better spot and long light, maybe , if you can put more Leds you can use both options, Lens for low beam and Optics for high beam...

Good luck and dont forget to share more pics about the project

:twothumbs
 
Hi yellow!

I thought i'd answer you concerns one at a time:

1st of all: why not fit the sink + led + optics/reflectors INSIDE the old head (thats what Your idea sounded within the first sentences).
As the build is now, You dont get any benefit from using the old housing
Click to expand...

The whole sink with verything in it will be placed inside the old head. The reason for making the sink so big that all parts fit inside, as opposed to just making a heat removing part at the bottom of the LEDs, is that:
1. I get a totally waterprotected casing for my lights.
2. I like the looks of the bolts kind of sticking out.

while a good sink generally is ok, this one is way to overbuild!
In a bike light, one has much cold moving air and thus can skip a large amount of thermal mass. The key is to get a good and thick thermal path to the large surface of the housing.
Click to expand...

With this sink i get a large surfacearea connected to the old casing. This gives me the most optimal heat transfer. The bottom plate on which the LEDs will be placed will not be more than 5 mm in thickness so that is quite similar to the size of the plate you are suggesting to me. The casing is really not that thick. I will post a crosssection view of it later when i get home.

There is even enough space behind the plate to put a circuit, switch, connections there.

How do You plan on powering it?
If dyno, the plate will be more than sufficient, if battery pack, add material - just in case.
Click to expand...

I still have space planned in to use for my electronics and maybe even the swith on the old housing. I plan to power it with a batterypack placed in an already existing case on my Swedish Army bike.

SKIP THE LUX!!!
Click to expand...

I can admitt now (as i learn more about this whole light thing) that the luxeons aren't the most effective LEDs. I WILL mount the ones that i already bought and if the light isn't sufficient, will post beamshots as the project is finsihed, ill switch LEDs.
 
pictures and promised crossection view of the heatsink will be posted tonight or at the latest tomorrow...
 
I promised yellow a crossection view of the heatsink. Sorry, didn't have time or wanted to make a complete drawing but i hope you can see what it's a picture of.

draft.jpg
 
Tonight i worked som more on the heatsink and cover for my bikelight.

The holes that are going to be threaded are drilled.
pict0044.jpg
pict0045.jpg


The coverplate is removed. I use the excess material from the heatsink to make the coverplate.
pict0046.jpg
pict0047.jpg


The holes are threaded. I use 6 x M5x20 (not 8 like in the model..... i'd had a couple of beers when i made that and i thought it looked lika a good idea at the time).
pict0048.jpg
pict0049.jpg


The coverplate is trimmed down a bit (3 mm).
pict0051.jpg
pict0052.jpg



The almost finished and assembled heatsink and coverplate. The onlythink that's left is to wait for the lense so that i can make that fit in the hole.
pict0058.jpg
 
see a cheap and easy version of what I mean here:

av9tjzxp4a0vuxoxg.jpg


Each place where the emitters are mounted, are a bit out of the main axle (2-3 degrees) to widen the beam and to move the round output to a triangular one
(does not work too good, as can be seen. Thats when the guy doing it is not the best with hand tools) ;)



av9tkj0j84gv2jss4.jpg


complete mod.
That whole circuit parts fit into the end cap ...
... apart from having everything inside the housing and thus not needing new front glass or rubber rings, ..., the ease of the mod and to have it look almost as in original state was the main idea.

PS: my hub only gives some 500 mA to the front led, so this thin alum sheet is enough, even as it is mounted totally inside the head.
Also, this only works on my town bike. My 1A@led hand light mods get better sinks :rolleyes:
 
Thanks yellow, i think i get what you are trying to say, but quite frankly i like the look of what i've made even though it might not be the most efficient use of space or material. I will definetly give this subjectmore thought on my upcoming builds!

On the question about the aluminum piece, i'm a member of a student run mechanical workshop at my school.

Now to the next matter. I've recieved my 3x3W Luxeon Stars wich i intend to use. I've also got the lens (http://www.molectric.com/product_info.php?cPath=65&products_id=287) thanks to Meduza for the tip! The problem i have now is how to power this whole thing. I'm not very good with electronics at all so if someone is willing to give a thorough explanation on a good solution of this i would be very grateful! The plan is to use a few rechargable batteries (don't know which ones are good for this type of application) and some kind of a drive circuit (here i'm totally lost). I'd prefer fewer batteries and shorter drivetime as opposed to the opposite.
 
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