P60 build help

s.e.acree1990@gmail.

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So, I have been immersing myself in the p60 drop ins, and I decided to try and make my own. I made two, but I'm scared to use them because I melted my McClicky switch trying them out. Too many amps? They seem to work fine, but I guess that my driver/LED choice doesn't match up. Am I in over my head here? I bought all materials from MTN electronics, is there any suggestions on what driver/led I should use? This is what I used...

Product NameModel
CREE XP-L HI V3 5A3 4000K LED on DTP CU 16mm MCPCB16mm-XPL-HI-V3-5A3
P60 XM Dropin - Orange Peel ReflectorP60XMDI-OP
FET + 7135 Driver - 17mm - MTN-17DDm
- Firmware: Standard w/ Memory
- Turbo Timer: No
- Wires + Spring Option: Complete | Wires + B..
MTN17DDm-NUV
18 AWG Premium Silicone WireWIRE-SIL-18AWG
Arctic Ceramique 2 Thermal Compound - 2.7GAS-CMQ2-2.7G
Samsung LH351D 5000K 90+ CRI on 16mm DTP CU MCPCBLH351D-5K-16MM
 
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Isn't a McClicky rated for a max of 6A? I'm not sure, but I have run an Oveready triple XPL-HI thru a McClicky on a bored SF 6P w/o issue, and I'm certain that it was drawing at least 9A based on the LED rating and on the ridiculous output (3500Lm before taxes, so maybe 2400 OTF?). Are you certain that there was not a short from the cell going straight to the body and thru the McClicky? I've never had the gumption to roll my own drop in, so take my input with a large saltlick and perhaps wait for the guys who have a clue to chime in.
 

F89

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I've had success with the McClicky on H17Fx built quads (using the Mountain shell).
I did however bypass the spring with a short wire (be careful soldering the base tab as you can melt the plastic base easily).
Without the bypass the spring got pretty hot after a max FET run.
I was using high current switches but I much prefer the McClicky and after discovering that a spring bypass was enough I went back to a McClicky.

The driver you mention likely has a more powerful FET than the H17Fx so I'm unsure if the bypass would be enough to run a McClicky?

LEDs with really low Vf aren't a great option for single LED set ups on a FET driver, that's something to keep in mind.

I say try the spring bypass and go from there.
 

F89

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Isn't a McClicky rated for a max of 6A? I'm not sure, but I have run an Oveready triple XPL-HI thru a McClicky on a bored SF 6P w/o issue, and I'm certain that it was drawing at least 9A based on the LED rating and on the ridiculous output (3500Lm before taxes, so maybe 2400 OTF?). Are you certain that there was not a short from the cell going straight to the body and thru the McClicky? I've never had the gumption to roll my own drop in, so take my input with a large saltlick and perhaps wait for the guys who have a clue to chime in.
I've had this happen on a couple of builds where it results in a bypass of the driver and essentially runs in direct drive. Switching on and off doesn't change modes, just on and off DD. Most LEDs likely won't melt a McClicky running direct drive.
I was able to remedy this by reseating the driver or MCPCB that the LEDs are mounted to.
I'd concluded that I ended up with some solder where it shouldn't be.

Regarding your Oveready drop in, were you using 2x18350?
I'd be surprised if that particular driver pulled that much off a single cell.
 

F89

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A couple of things to consider:
Battery type (I'm assuming you're using an 18650). Some high drain types can pull a lot more amps on a FET channel than others.

Forward voltage of the LED.

Resistance at the contacts (I use a small piece of solid copper tube as a positive contact on the driver). Spring bypasses, particularly at the switch.
As stated I've had success on currents unsuitable for a McClicky simply by bypassing the spring (the switch spring got really hot but didn't melt the switch prior to the bypass). After the bypass they run cool and have had plenty of long max current cycles so I'm confident they're good.

I don't think you're over your head. Keep playing, you'll get there.
One recommendation I'd make is to consider the H17Fx. It doesn't have the power of some of the big FET drivers but it has many other advantages with plenty of power (for my needs) on the FET channel.
 

F89

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Yes. I was using a pair of 18350 IMR's. The setup will run off a single 18650, but the massively decreased output negates the whole point of the drop in.
That makes sense. I have some of their older drop ins, non programmable but essentially the same.
Higher voltage, lower amps.
That thing isn't pulling anywhere near 9A on two cells.
 

KITROBASKIN

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Some McClickys fail. Other than heat from spring resistance, you could have used an older failing switch or a defective unit?

Know that many of us have had to try numerous configurations to get P60 conglomerations to function well; component fitment being a big bugaboo. Skylumen used to have different switch alternatives, though reverse clicky is not a favorite unless necessary for the driver design.
 

yellow

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It's been over a decade I built P60 inserts...
;)
That time there were led models that were NOT electrically neutral (isolated) at their base.
.
Is it possible "Your" led is the same?
So You get a short totally bypassing the driver.
?
Else the total setup should not make any difference, as the driver should only deliver, what it can deliver, no matter what led is used.
 

s.e.acree1990@gmail.

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I replaced the McClicky switch today, because I finally got some replacements in the mail. I can run it on high for about 45 seconds until the bezel gets warm/starting to get hot. (I did wrap the drop in in foil). Then I take the tail cap off and using a laser thermometer I get a little over 90-100 degrees. Is this too hot? Other than that, it works well the Samsung Led one, On lower settings I ran it for 5 minutes straight and seems fine I haven't tried the Cree much.
 

s.e.acree1990@gmail.

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Dec 30, 2023
Messages
10
Location
Midlothian, Va USA
I've had success with the McClicky on H17Fx built quads (using the Mountain shell).
I did however bypass the spring with a short wire (be careful soldering the base tab as you can melt the plastic base easily).
Without the bypass the spring got pretty hot after a max FET run.
I was using high current switches but I much prefer the McClicky and after discovering that a spring bypass was enough I went back to a McClicky.

The driver you mention likely has a more powerful FET than the H17Fx so I'm unsure if the bypass would be enough to run a McClicky?

LEDs with really low Vf aren't a great option for single LED set ups on a FET driver, that's something to keep in mind.

I say try the spring bypass and go from there.
That seems like a great idea. Thank you for the information, I will look into that!
 
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