4Sevens Atoms Family Review

[Gunnerboy]

Cheers to gunga for posting these reviews! Quite helpful for me since I'm considering an Atom AL as my first headlamp.

 

[gunga]

Thanks for the feedback! Enjoy!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums

 

[BillSWPA]

Apparently my demagnetized Atom was damaged beyond repair. FourSevens sent a new one, and I am leaving this magnet intact. I immediately lubricated the threads and O-ring, and have been using the light for awhile now with no issues whatsoever. I am leaving my MLR2 on my keychain and using the Atom to check on kids at night, for which it is perfect. The low red light allows me to verify that all is well without waking them up.

 

[gunga]

I actually am trying out a limited edition ti A0. The funny thing is my magnet fell out. I'll report back soon.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

IMO, the quality of the Atoms just aren't anywhere near the quality of their other lineups. I love my Quarks (though I wish they offered something other than cool white), but I really don't like my Atom. It's cheap, it flickers (tightening the pill helps, but not completely), and it eats o-rings. Reminds me of my Maglites.

 

[jon_slider]

outstanding lineup ;-)

 

[lampeDépêche]

Five or six years later, the Atom lights that I use the most are a pair of AA versions.

I have two bathrooms in the house, and each one has an Atom AA constantly on, adhered to the light-fixture by its magnet.

In the day-time, it's so dim that you don't notice it up there. And at night, it gives just the right amount of light for a visit, and does not diminish night vision.

Every week or ten days or so I swap out the Eneloop and put a fresh one in.

I also have a AAA version in my toiletries kit that always travels with me. Every hotel-room bathroom gets the same treatment.

I have a 123 Atom which I sometimes use for pure mule light. I had Vinh put in a Nichia 219b -- good CRI and good output -- and I have used that thing as a work-light in tight spaces. However, it is not part of my regular EDC.

Question: has anyone figured out a cure for the problem with the AAA (a.k.a. Atom 0) switching problem? Of my 3 Atom 0s, two of them have stopped switching into high-mode, and will only turn on in low.

Is it a contact problem, a mechanical problem, a voltage problem, a circuit problem? Anyone have any luck?

 

[AVService]

Five or six years later, the Atom lights that I use the most are a pair of AA versions.

I have two bathrooms in the house, and each one has an Atom AA constantly on, adhered to the light-fixture by its magnet.

In the day-time, it's so dim that you don't notice it up there. And at night, it gives just the right amount of light for a visit, and does not diminish night vision.

Every week or ten days or so I swap out the Eneloop and put a fresh one in.

I also have a AAA version in my toiletries kit that always travels with me. Every hotel-room bathroom gets the same treatment.

I have a 123 Atom which I sometimes use for pure mule light. I had Vinh put in a Nichia 219b -- good CRI and good output -- and I have used that thing as a work-light in tight spaces. However, it is not part of my regular EDC.

Question: has anyone figured out a cure for the problem with the AAA (a.k.a. Atom 0) switching problem? Of my 3 Atom 0s, two of them have stopped switching into high-mode, and will only turn on in low.

Is it a contact problem, a mechanical problem, a voltage problem, a circuit problem? Anyone have any luck?

I have only had the AAA version but I have 3 of the 219 anniversary models and have not had any switching issues unless the battery is weak.
I have had the magnet fall out of 2 of them and I think maybe every other AAA light that I own is more rugged and better put together.
On the other hand that 219 emitter is the real deal and I wish they still offered these.

The new Peon is pretty great too for me but they are not the same as the Atom either.

 

[Nichia!]

Yes, they are really really bad! And it's definitely driver problem..

Very bad flickering and mood skipping

 

[Nichia!]

It seems to me that 4/7 never took their time when designing these lights unfortunately....

 

[Nichia!]

AAA Mule atom with nichia B and Copper!! just perfect!! It will never happen

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

I was about to post my complaints about the quality of this light, and I just noticed I already did 4 years ago! Zombie thread.

IMO, decreasing quality for expensive lights was one of the things that did 4sevens in. That, and strange design choices in their new lights. They never seemed to care about flashaholics. IMO, companies should first design really nice lights that flashaholics would like, then tweak them for the mass-market.

 

[jon_slider]

… Atom. … it flickers… and it eats o-rings.

I have the Atom AL.

It does not like my Olight 16340, it only gives low mode
it does like my IMR 16340 and my CR123A, both low and high modes work

 

[SNES]

I've had an AL for a couple years now that has never had any issues. I actually just sent it to Vinh to get an XPL HI put in it. Great little light.

 

[jon_slider]

I've had an AL for a couple years now that has never had any issues. I actually just sent it to Vinh to get an XPL HI put in it. Great little light.

happy youre happy

curious what the positive post on your battery looks like

 

[SNES]

I'm not suggesting they are perfect, just posting my experience. I'll post a pic when I get it back. I've been using the 4Sevens CR123.

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

This just gave me an idea to see if I can find an o ring the correct size to act as a spacer just a tiny bit thicker than the red disk in my A0 that misbehaves in an effort to improve behavior.

 

[jon_slider]

This just gave me an idea to see if I can find an o ring the correct size to act as a spacer just a tiny bit thicker than the red disk in my A0 that misbehaves in an effort to improve behavior.

I edited my earlier post, in case that gave you the wrong idea.
I do not recommend a thicker replacement for the red disc, I think that would make the problem worse.

I think the correct solution, is a battery with a taller button, than the one you are having trouble with. OR a thinner replacement for the red spacer in your A0, not thicker. Bear in mind that if you use too thin a spacer, you will lose the reverse polarity protection. The spacer needs to be taller than the positive contact on the driver.

I realize your A0 is AAA not CR123, the following battery examples are in regards to the Atom AL

the battery on the left has the shortest button height, it only gives low mode. I believe the problem is caused by the button being too short. So when trying to compress the silver disc on the driver, to get high mode, the shoulder of the battery runs into the red plastic disc before the button can push the silver disc down all the way. A thicker disc would make the problem worse.

the battery in the middle has a taller button than the Olight on the left. It is a CR123A, and works fine, both low and high mode.

the battery on the right is an unprotected IMR 16340 and the button is taller than the Olight on far left, but less tall than the button on the CR123A in the middle. The IMR on the right also works fine, on both low and high mode.

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

A taller positive end or a thinner red disk would certainly make the problem worse. My light will activate with a tiny push on the bezel until I've unscrewed the head so far back that the body oring is exposed.

 

[jon_slider]

A taller positive end or a thinner red disk would certainly make the problem worse.

thanks for explaining that your A0 has the opposite problem than I have been discussing.. now I understand better and agree, add a spacer.. I suggest you not remove the red disc, just add a ring that you can remove.

removing the red disc on my Atom AL shows sticky tape, that is required to hold the silver positive contact plate..

I dont know if your A0 red disc is different, but I would avoid removing it.