AA light needed

Dicaeopolis

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Nov 19, 2017
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I am looking for a single AA light that is either one high mode or starts on high. I need it to have a clicky tail switch. Must be alkaline compatible. NIMH and 14500 would be a plus.
 
I am looking for a single AA light that is either one high mode or starts on high. I need it to have a clicky tail switch. Must be alkaline compatible. NIMH and 14500 would be a plus.

I use a couple of Eagtac D25A MKIIs quite a bit. They run great on AA, although I often use secondaries (14500) in them (both are 'supported'). They can be easily (without reading a manual for an hour) set to 'max' only, or to start on chosen output level (of 4). They're available from a great U.S. distributor (although that might be the other side of the world from you) for ~$50 USD shipped fast with a choice of 5+ different emitters (my favorite is the SST-20 4000K). I find them very usable / useful. Just one for your list to check out.
 
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I use a couple of Eagtac D25A MKIIs quite a bit. They run great on AA, although I often use secondaries (14500) in them (both are 'supported'). They can be easily (without reading a manual for an hour) set to 'max' only, or to start on chosen output level (of 4). They're available from a great U.S. distributor (although that might be the other side of the world from you) for ~$50 USD shipped fast with a choice of 5+ different emitters (my favorite is the SST-20 4000K). I find them very usable / useful. Just one for your list to check out.
"start on chosen output level (of 4)"
CORRECTION: I'm not certain about this part on the 'A' - this may only be for the 'C' - I'd have to check later. I'm pretty sure one can enable / disable 'mode memory' (last state power up) on the 'A', but a specific startup level may only apply to the 'C'. Startup on 'MAX' output definitely also works on either with a simple (persistent) head setting.

As mentioned, the SL Protac 1L-1AA is another great choice (which I also have), and adds 'momentary-on' switch, which is a major advantage to me. 14500 isn't 'supported', but the momentary switch is worth that tradeoff. It's a bit larger than the Eagtac, but it also has a 2-meter impact rating, which the Eagtac does not. It will also run on a CR123A, which is an advantage.
 
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Streamlight 1L-1AA, can be ten tapped to come on high only.
Streamlight looks good. Does anyone know the max voltage? I'd imagine the NIMH rechargeable is fine. I'm thinking maybe a 14500 is too much.
 
Streamlight looks good. Does anyone know the max voltage? I'd imagine the NIMH rechargeable is fine. I'm thinking maybe a 14500 is too much.

Mine's fairly new and I haven't run NiMH in it yet (only LFP123 / CR123A), but 14500 (3.6/7V) Li Ion is not supported AFAIK, and its use would risk failure.
 
Check out the Convoy T3 13 mode AA.
Fantastic lights that come in the excellent 519a
They have a few mode options that start up on 100%
Just can't go wrong. Don't be out off by the low cost…I can go into detail how there's not much electrical component difference in a $20 convoy light vs a $50-100 light.

US $15.84 | Convoy T3 flashlight ,high CRI, AA 14500 flashlight,XPG2 219B 219C LH351D 519A 13groups
 
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I know this isn't AA, and I don't know the environment you're using this light…but if it's based on security concerns and you need an AA size, here's a super high quality option that will always work year after year:

 
I know this isn't AA, and I don't know the environment you're using this light…but if it's based on security concerns and you need an AA size, here's a super high quality option that will always work year after year:

Right up my alley. I have the MDC TAC. I did discover I can put the TAC head and run it on a single AA, but I haven't tested how long it will last yet. I only want the AA because I always have them available at work. I wish Malkoff would come out with SHO AA or TAC AA. I use my Malkoff AA all the time at home at night, but have to cycle through to get to high to make it suit my needs at work. I use my light a lot at work.
 
Streamlight looks good. Does anyone know the max voltage? I'd imagine the NIMH rechargeable is fine. I'm thinking maybe a 14500 is too much.
I think 3.6V li-ions drive it a little too hard, you might get away with using them for a while, but they are overdriving the LED. I have used 3.2V LFP cells with no issues, but that's as far as I would go on a regular basis.
 
If you like the MDC AA except for the mode switching, what about an MDC AA body with a VME head and M31 drop-in of some flavor? (The M31LL is probably the most that will stay in regulation on a single AA, though)
 
If you like the MDC AA except for the mode switching, what about an MDC AA body with a VME head and M31 drop-in of some flavor? (The M31LL is probably the most that will stay in regulation on a single AA, though)
Definitely an option. Thicker and heavier than the MDC, and I think it is about 80 lumens or so?I believe my MDC TAC head gives about the same result and is smaller.
 
Mine's fairly new and I haven't run NiMH in it yet (only LFP123 / CR123A), but 14500 (3.6/7V) Li Ion is not supported AFAIK, and its use would risk failure.
Ironically, the literature that comes with the light says not to use rechargeables of any type. I wouldn't risk using RCR123s nor 14500s in mine. I'm sure other CPFers who own an SL 1L-1AA have used MiMHs. I just personally haven't either.
 
I've used KP 3V rechargeable CR123 batteries in my SL 1L-1AA since getting it a year ago or so, works great. It's snug when you screw down the tailcap but that hasn't seemed to be an issue. I don't know how (or if) that translates to NiMH in AA, though.

I did briefly try a 3.7V 16340 and you lose the low. Not sure how steady use of the higher voltage might affect it.
 
So there's a boost driver that takes 1.5v and bumps them up to power the 3v LED.
There's a buck driver that takes a 4.2v battery and turns it down to ~3v or so to power the LED.
Then there's a combo driver that is part boost and park buck that allows a 1.5v or a 4.2v ( AA or 14500).
A lot of light manufacturers will advertise being 14500 when in reality they know the light won't last. They don't care.

The SL driver must be a boost driver because the light is designed to use 1.5v batteries to power a 3v LED.

So when putting 4.2v on that flashlight is what happens is 4.2 volts go to the 3 volt LED. Sure there's some voltage drop along the way, but it's still more volts than what the LED can handle. It'll work and it'll be brighter, but it won't last as long as only sending 3v to the LED.
 
Oh and it'll blow the resister on the driver. That's critical too. Once it blows it sends full power to the LED.
 
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