Aleph P7 Modifications - Post your McR reflector mods!

Ducaticorse

Newly Enlightened
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Aug 26, 2007
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I have had numerous "backchannel" PM exchange with several CPF'ers regarding usage of the P7 in the Aleph-compatible family of lego lights, mainly as research for my own project. I know there are bits and pieces of info floating around in threads out there, but thought it might be helpful to try to gather up a bunch of info in once place regarding the modification and use of the McR series of reflectors (or other "Custom & Modified" reflectors) with the SSC P7. I hope some of the others I've chatted with will chime in with their own experiences so we can build a little one-stop-shopping information base for others who are interested in this type of light. My contribution is below:
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I had originally jumped into the Aleph-compatible world with one of Don's EN AMC Mule sets and paired it with one of Derek's (datiLED) P7 Aleph Mule light engines. I was really happy with this setup. I personally got along nicely with the slightly-funky UI (hey, I'm a slightly funky guy!) of the FluPIC and the assignable levels made for the ability to set up 1) an ultra-low, 2) a reasonably hot and 3) 1.2A Burst configuration that works really well for my particular needs.

Then, like any proper downward spiral - it began. The collecting of Aleph/E-compatible parts. I ended up with a few nice configurations, including an A1 "tribute" ;) 27mm Ti head from Chao (erinO919) using the McR27. I had been kicking around using this head a couple different ways, most likely with a U2SVOH on a FluPIC driver.

I was at my buddy Alex's house (he's a toolmaker/machinist) goofing off with him in his shop and after experimenting with the 27mm reflector and the LE, we decided to try to open the McR27 to accept this P7 emitter. Yes, I realize that it's "only" being driven at ~1.2A in this LE, and the P7 is really driven to perform at something more than 2x this - but we had a lathe handy and the initial look-see suggested that this might produce something nice. :shrug: I'm hoping to test this same setup (except on an 18650 body) with a Bi-FluPIC sometime soon. :devil: I expect that to produce some pretty awesome results from a small package, based on comments from others who've tried it already. :poke:

I debated about whether to ream/bore the ID of the reflector to simply make the hole larger, or to face off (axially) the rear surface of the reflector on the lathe until the natural parabolic shape left us with a larger opening. We chose the latter and set off. We ended up after some experimentation with a reflector whose overall length was reduced by approx 0.72mm. This gave an emitter opening of 10mm - enough for the P7 with a little bit to spare.

I was initially concerned that we'd taken off too much, I was figuring to open the reflector to something closer to 9mm and fit tightly to the P7's dome. We assembled the light and found a really nice beam pattern. In fact, I think that it's definitely one of the more usable "real world" beam patterns I've tried. Nice big hotspot, no donut, and a really bright spill area. The "cross" of the four dies starts to become visible only on a while wall at ranges of 8" or less. It makes an awesome indoor/house light and it had surprisingly decent reach outdoors. It's not a big thrower, but I find anymore that pinpoint throw doesn't really work for me in real-world use, with a couple very specific exceptions. (see beamshot at the bottom of this post)

Here are the dimensions:

15.32mm - Don's design overall length for the McR27 (standard)
14.60mm - Overall length after cutting
~10mm - Emitter opening

One unfortunate side effect of the reflector cut-down this way is that the overall stack space (between the McClickie spring and the LE) for the battery increases due to the shorter reflector. While I can't recommend the use of a magnet due to safety concerns, I personally chose to use one to help fill this extra space. It works just fine. I found that I needed the magnet to help ensure robust electrical contact whether using one of Don's Ti McClickie Paks, an original Aleph body, or the M_M 18650 split body. Personally, it's a tradeoff I can live with.

Here are some pics to help explain in case my text description is not clear to those reading.

Host:
alephp7-1.jpg


Components:
alephp7-2.jpg


Reflector AFTER CUTTING DOWN - This axial length dimension was originally 15.32mm
alephp7-4.jpg


Derek's P7 FluPIC LE:
alephp7-5.jpg


Front View into the Reflector
alephp7-6.jpg


AW's RCR123 with Magnet
- I used a pair of thin magnets, pressed into a cut-down rubber grommet to help protect against a short
alephp7-7.jpg


AW cell with magnet in place
alephp7-8.jpg


"Quickie" (sorry, still a newb at beamshots) Beamshot, comparison to NovaTac 120P on "MAX" for reference:
P7vs120P.jpg
 
Last edited:
Awesome thread Mark...!

I will asap chime in with my measurements for the McR20
and my build....:D
 
Here's what I did to my A1 for it to work with darkzero's bi-FLuPIC in an E-screw can.

My reflector started out at .625"(15.87mm) tall. I started out by opening the hole with a 3/8" drill (9.52mm). I then proceeded to take material off the back using a file and trying it out periodically for focus. When I got to .595"(15.11mm) it had a nice hotspot, but with a faint hole in the middle of it. Now I had to use a wire around the LE for the 1x123 tube to make negative contact. I didn't want to take anymore off because it was moving the LE farther away from the tube.

I contacted Wayne at ElectroLumens for a couple of his 27mm IMS reflectors that he was using in one of his P7 lights. It was a good fit. Well, being smooth the beam was butt ugly. I sputtered one and got rid of the hole, but lost output. I sputtered the other not as heavy and had good output with the faint hole.

I have an McR27XR reflector and saw that it produced a niece beam with good output. To use this I would have to buy a long A1 head from TNC. Well, that would bring the cost of my light to about $400. So I quit and sold the LE. :D

I'd like to add that darkzero's LE showed 2.45A on burst, at the battery with one of AW's red skin batteries. ho chi mamma
 
I'd like to add that darkzero's LE showed 2.45A on burst, at the battery with one of AW's red skin batteries. ho chi mamma


But, are these different...?
I have the V2.2
 
:bump: I bought Nake's bi-fluPic and put it in a Mule. With AW's new high discharge battery, it's bright. I'm looking for a little throw, so let's keep this thread going with some new ideas for reflector/head combos.
 
Yea, I`m sorry but I can not find a good caliper to get good measures...

But tomorrow I`ll try and get some pics up atleast....




These babies kick butt.....:twothumbs
 
The P7 works well with the McR38 reflector.
I use a "Uni-Bit" to open the hole for the emitter fit to through. In my opinion, the McR38 focus's the P7 the best out of all the McR type reflectors.

I have also used the McR27 short with ok results. It sound as though Mark has figured out the best way to get that one to focus correctly.

The McR27XR does well with the P7 and does not have to be modified at all to use.
It produces a nice bright floody beam.

Those have been my experiances, I hope it helps...
 
Finally found a decent caliper....!

The measurements: 0.535" and that would be 13.54mm to be exact...:cool:

And then I just took the slightly (!?) sharp edge of it with
the dremel....:twothumbs
 
Looks like PhotonFanatic's new P7 reflectors would fit the A1 head. Maybe a little filing here and there.
 
Don`t get me wrong, my post was just an update on the previous ones...


The FotonPhanatic sounds great and should make it real easy....:thumbsup:
 
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