ALX 233C Power Regulator wanted

[Torcherman]

Hi just wondering if anbody can help me locate a spare power regulator module for my Nuwai ALX 233C (3 C Cell 3Watt unit with High -Med- Low-Flash )
I have tried Nuwai direct but they can't help. Any help anybody?
Cheers, Dave:laughing::devil:

 

[Gunner12]

I don't know where to get a new regulator for your light but this driver might work if it fits in your light. About 17 mm in diameter and 3 mm high.

Welcome to CPF!

 

[discoverEDC]

Gunner12 you beat me to the punch, good call.

Torcherman, welcome to the CPF. To use the module mentioned above you will have to install a Cree XR-E or Seoul Semi-Conductor P4 into your light. DealExtreme has the Seoul premounted on stars which would be the easiest way to do it.

I have an ALX233C, they are great lights. I installed a Seoul P4 into my light and got 4,750 lux on high with an excellent beam. You would get more with the driver from DX because it is pushing 300 mA more than the origianl ALX driver.

You will need thermal paste or thermal epoxy to put under the emitter or star (go to http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/ and search under thermal management). Also the DX driver mentioned is ment for a smaller light. the center pad is for the positive contact of the 1st battery, you would have to figure out a way to securely mount the driver in the ALX and get a good contact between the outer conductive ring on the driver and the body of the ALX to make the negative contact.

Hope this helps. If you haven't done any mods it sounds like a lot of work but it can be done. Your ALX233C deserves it :laughing:

 

[Torcherman]

I don't know where to get a new regulator for your light but this driver might work if it fits in your light. About 17 mm in diameter and 3 mm high.

Welcome to CPF!

Thanks Gunner, I think this may be the only option--I had replaced the orginal 3 watt Luxeon for a cree led from DX---The change was great- the reflector gave its' typical hot centre but now with a 15 degree outer softer warm spot followed by your typical cree spill thereafter. Great beam. Now I did current checks from NiMh 3 c cells and it ranged from 0.9 amps to 1.1Amps then up to 1.3amps just prior to battery roll off. So the regulator was doing a great job in maintaining stiff regulation down to battery exhaustion---I was doing a discharge /time test when at the 3 hour mark on high , current 1.3 amps the regulator became a direct path from Battery pack to LED-it went up in smoke--now the regulator behaves as a piece of wire (direct drive-no regulation or switch control)

Anyway thanks for your input,
Cheers Dave & thanks for the welcome:huh:

 

[Torcherman]

Gunner12 you beat me to the punch, good call.

Torcherman, welcome to the CPF. To use the module mentioned above you will have to install a Cree XR-E or Seoul Semi-Conductor P4 into your light. DealExtreme has the Seoul premounted on stars which would be the easiest way to do it.

I have an ALX233C, they are great lights. I installed a Seoul P4 into my light and got 4,750 lux on high with an excellent beam. You would get more with the driver from DX because it is pushing 300 mA more than the origianl ALX driver.

You will need thermal paste or thermal epoxy to put under the emitter or star (go to http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/ and search under thermal management). Also the DX driver mentioned is ment for a smaller light. the center pad is for the positive contact of the 1st battery, you would have to figure out a way to securely mount the driver in the ALX and get a good contact between the outer conductive ring on the driver and the body of the ALX to make the negative contact.

Hope this helps. If you haven't done any mods it sounds like a lot of work but it can be done. Your ALX233C deserves it :laughing:

Thanks Discover EDC--I just replied to gunner12--and also thank you for the welcome--
Yes the233C is one of those lights you just need to keep--plenty of power supply from 3 C -good to hold, great optics, adj focus (add another O ring to the lamp shade and you get a wider range on the focus adjust before the head comes loose--
I did put a cree LED from DX in it and it gave a superb beam--probably be sharper again in focus using the SSC type Leds but th cree still gave the 233C a tight hotspot with a 15 degree warm spot around the main hot spot--after that it was your typical spill from the cree.

I don't have the 5 mode regulator but I do have the single 1050ma module--so I might retrofit that for now and get a 5 mode on my next shipment,,cheers Discover EDC
Regards Torcherman:thumbsup:

 

[discoverEDC]

I'm glad to hear that the cree works. I gave my Dad and Brother ALX233C's for Christmas last year. Now I know I can install SSC or XRE (think Q5) for them.

The ALX has to be one of the best formfactors around for a walk the dog/around the house kind of lights. A lot more solid feeling than any M*g I've come across.

Regards

discoverEDC

 

[Torcherman]

Update Update!! I have successfully installed a new regulator board (the DX 1050ma unit)

Great stuff however these regulators are not buck/boost typ at all--There is no coil / coils on the circuit board so it definitely can't boost.
They do however regulate current exactly to 980 ma as long as you have more voltage than your LED requires.

So with a fresh charge of 3 C Cells this light works well. We all no LEDs are current driven devices and to get 1 amp into a LED you will be aware that you need 3.6 to 3.8 possibly even up to 4 volts to push the current through the LED. Normal Ni Mh 3 cell pack will be around 3.7 volts--as you can see depending on your LED it won't take long before this regulator board comes out of regulation ! Once this happens your LED effectively becomes a direct connect to the battery pack for the next 4 years of declining output!! if you know what I mean. A Buck Boost type extract all the stored energy out of your battery pack raise or lower voltage to the LED and therefore can keep pushing high current through the LED under varying battery voltage and your battery pack will generally be exhausted by the time a buck/boost comes out of regulation.

The 233C at least works reliably and will pull 1 amp from the NiMh for about 20 minutes then its direct connect led to battery-
These regulator boards would be better for a 4 cell Ni Mh pack or Alkaline 3 cell.

I will now look out for a suitable Buck Boost regulator because of the lack of terminal voltage from 3 C cells NiMh.
Otherwise at the moment I am happy I was able to mechanically sort out a switch mechanism for a great Flashlight and now any regulator can be fitted.
Cheers to All
Torcherman

 

[johnA]

Hi guys, i'm new in the cpf and i spend a lot of hours everyday trying to find a mod for my nuwai ALX-233C. If someone of you has the same light i want your help to modifying my torch. Some pics should be very useful! thanks!