Amazon Basics AA/AAA Alkaline Batteries

markr6

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I usually don't buy alkalines but these were cheap - something like $6.49 for a 20-pack of AA. And there are some things I just can't bring myself to "waste" an Eneloop in, like my thermostat or baby toys. I also picked up an 8-pack of AAA for 2.99.

Of course I don't have any performance data, but the reviews looked good. The date stamp says 12/2024, so if I get even half that storage I'll be happy. Just something to store in the basement for whatever, and on the cheap.

Leave it up to Amazon to make simple alkalines pretty darn classy :) They looked white online, but are in fact a shiny chrome.

amazon_basics_aa.JPG
 

TinderBox (UK)

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Put them on discharge only if you have an Maha c9000 at 0.2c to get an idea of the capacity, The Energizer website use to rate alakline aa at around 2800mah they may be higher not.

John
 

markr6

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Put them on discharge only if you have an Maha c9000 at 0.2c to get an idea of the capacity, The Energizer website use to rate alakline aa at around 2800mah they may be higher not.

John

Nice, I never though about that. So you can do that safely with alkalines? I have a BC700 which I believe can discahrge at 100ma, 250ma and 350ma.

Actually, after checking the manual, the BC700 starts charging after the DISCHARGE is done. So I guess I'm out of luck. I do have two L10 flashlights, so maybe I'll do a side-by-side comparison with another alkaline to see if there is a big difference.
 
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WalkIntoTheLight

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I do have two L10 flashlights, so maybe I'll do a side-by-side comparison with another alkaline to see if there is a big difference.

Test at medium mode on the L10's (30 lumens), not high. If you look at Selfbuilt's reviews, the L10 brightness sags almost immediately with alkalines on high, so you won't get a reliable constant-output to compare run times.
 

Joeymt3

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I bought several bricks of Utilitech AA batteries at Lowes. They were $20 for 100! They seem to be real good. As the OP said, I just can't waste Eneloops. On some items like remotes or temp sensors. Thanks for the heads up on those Amazon batteries.
 

SilverFox

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Hello Yorab,

I believe some people have issues with using a high performance, vibrant, cell for a lowly application such as a remote.

Tom
 

SilverFox

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Hello Yorab,

I believe some people have issues with using a high performance, vibrant, cell for a lowly application such as a remote.

Tom
 

StarHalo

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Just curious about the sentiment of "wasting" Eneloops. What is meant by that?

- Very low drain applications will run longer on alkalines versus NiMH, remote controls being one example.

- Most of us have at least one pile of alkalines laying around that have to be used for something.

- A $2.50 device doesn't really deserve $5 of cutting-edge battery technology.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Just curious about the sentiment of "wasting" Eneloops. What is meant by that?
I think what is meant is that some of us people don't have unlimited funds for batteries and if you can spend less than a dollar to power a remote or thermometer for a year or three vs spending $5 for eneloops. If you have 6 devices that use 2 cells each that would cost you $30 or more to feed them eneloops plus recharging them every few years vs buying alkalines for perhaps 25 cents each or $3 to fuel those items and buy a $28 LED light to use instead with the few eneloops you already have. Personally I have about 8 devices I still use alkalines in because a few of them don't run half as long on my LSD nimh cells. I hate using alkalines but I hate worse having to change batteries (take out and recharge) on devices 2 to 3 times as much plus resetting them.
 
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more_vampires

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I think what is meant is that some of us people don't have unlimited funds for batteries and if you can spend less than a dollar to power a remote or thermometer for a year or three vs spending $5 for eneloops.

I've been giving away NiMH batteries as I have been getting newer and better ones. The last time I got more Eneloops, I gave something like 12-16 NiMH to someone "too cheap to buy them." They then turned around and used them intensively, even buying a charger. All it took was to give them some batteries.

I really don't use alkalines. I think my only remaining ones are in some smoke alarms and a thermostat. I gave up remote controls, btw I no longer watch television and haven't for a couple of years now.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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I use rechargeables in everything, including smoke detectors. Even my watches use solar charging to charge internal batteries!

(Okay, there are some other devices I have that use lithium button cells, which I don't believe you can easily get rechargeable versions for.)

For very low drain devices, you're right that it's not economical to use Eneloops. However, when you consider the possibility of alkaline leaks, the economics start to turn in favour of using Eneloops. At least, if the device is worth more than a few dollars.

I can put up with charging the Eneloops in my remotes and clocks every couple of years, vs. needing to check for alkaline leaks every week.
 

Berneck1

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I use Eneloops in almost anything that takes AA/AAA. One of the things I don't use them in is my kid's toys. When they break, my wife always throws them away with the batteries in them. After losing a few Eneloops this way, I finally gave up and use primaries.

I use only high quality primaries in things like smoke and CO2 detectors as well. I have read where rechargeables aren't as good in those. Not to mention that there is a degree of reliability that I'm not willing to compromise on with these devices. However, things like remotes, thermostats, wireless keyboards, etc, I use them all the time. They may have to be changed a little more often, but I always have plenty of charged Eneloops ready to go. I see no reason not to use them.

Primaries have their place, but it's becoming increasingly less necessary to have a ton of them on hand.


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markr6

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Everyone pretty much covered the reasons for wasting Eneloops. One exception for me is the main TV remote. I like to use Eneloops and top them off every couple months. It just makes it easier to change the channel from a sharp angle across the room or if there is something in the way of the TV. Heck, with full batteries you can shoot it thru a blanket or bounce it off a wall instead of having to point it right at the TV or cable box.
 

MidnightDistortions

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Nice, I never though about that. So you can do that safely with alkalines? I have a BC700 which I believe can discahrge at 100ma, 250ma and 350ma.

Actually, after checking the manual, the BC700 starts charging after the DISCHARGE is done. So I guess I'm out of luck. I do have two L10 flashlights, so maybe I'll do a side-by-side comparison with another alkaline to see if there is a big difference.

You could always take the cells out when they are finished discharging, but you'll have to monitor that.


I use rechargeables in everything, including smoke detectors. Even my watches use solar charging to charge internal batteries!

(Okay, there are some other devices I have that use lithium button cells, which I don't believe you can easily get rechargeable versions for.)

For very low drain devices, you're right that it's not economical to use Eneloops. However, when you consider the possibility of alkaline leaks, the economics start to turn in favour of using Eneloops. At least, if the device is worth more than a few dollars.

I can put up with charging the Eneloops in my remotes and clocks every couple of years, vs. needing to check for alkaline leaks every week.

This is exactly the reason i hold onto my crap NiMH batteries. They work fine in low drain devices and you don't have to worry about alkaline leakage. I have very little use for alkalines anymore with aged/high-IR NiMH cells ready to go.
 

RetroTechie

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Alkalines vs. Eneloops is not a matter of heavy use or low drain, but a question of how inconvenient and/or costly it is when alkalines leak & nukes equipment they were in. The chance of that happening is simply much lower with decent quality NiMH's.

Found a nice middle road a while ago: some low cost, but good enough quality low-self-discharge NiMH's (per cell, roughly 3-4x the cost of an alkaline, and half the cost of an Eneloop). Already have enough chargers, so their cost isn't relevant for me in deciding what battery type to use.

For high drain uses, or expensive equipment, I put in Eneloops. For other uses, a small stack of those 'no name' lsd NiMH's sits ready. If device goes empty: pop out cells, recharge, pop back in. Who cares if I need to do that once per year, vs. once per 2 year?

Between those options, older / high self discharge NiMH's and alkalines have no place in my home anymore (good riddance). :wave: Perhaps I'd consider Lithium primaries for very specific uses like in a smoke detector, but that's about it.
 

Kurt_Woloch

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OK, some points here...

First, as for the comparison to Eneloops, you might as well compare the alkalines to rechargeable AmazonBasics (white) made in Japan. From what I've heard I'm pretty sure they come from the same factory as Japanese Eneloops, though they might have been manufatured to a bit different specs (rated at fewer recharge cycles and, according to the reviews on Amazon, maybe having a bit less capacity than genuine Japanese Eneloops). Those are priced at least $2.25 per cell, while the alkalines are at least $0.28 per cell. So for the price of one Amaloop, you get 8 alkalines. This means that one rechargeable cell would have to last at least 8 times as long as an alkaline in order to be worth the price. In the case where an alkaline lasts 2 years or more, this would be 16 years for the rechargeable cell, and I'd at least doubt if this is possible because of the degradation of the chemicals.

I've read the reviews for those AmazonBasics alkalines, and it often gets mentioned that they'd have less capacity and especially higher internal resistance than other alkaline cells, so this might be one thing to consider. However, another thing I've read is that they're not as likely to leak as other brands. AmazonBasics alkalines, at least those shipped from Germany, are manufatured in China.

I only have few alkaline cells as well, but I sometimes get new ones packaged with devices I buy, and I do try to use those. Sometimes I'll use them in the device they came with (when I'm not sure how long they'd actually last in that device), sometimes not (if I've got enough rechargeables around and the device seems to be rather high-drain). The last ones I got were three AA cells in a soap dispenser (which got used up in it, but still will be handed down to lower-power devices), 4 AAA's and 1 9V in an RC forklift (which were promptly put aside and rechargeables used instead) and 2 AAA's in a digital multimeter (which it is still powered with). There are only rare instances where I will buy primaries, but they do occur. The last ones I remember were the following:

- In 1998 I bought 10 C cells for use in my multitrack cassette recorder. I used those for recordings for Orange 94.0, the radio station I was doing broadcasts on back then, and they were used for four reports in total, using up maybe 20-30% of their capacity, from 1998 to 2002, then they mostly died from old age... the last one was just recycles a few days ago after giving up the ghost in a wall clock.
- In 2000, I bought 6 D Duracell Ultras for use in my keyboard... I had a gig and forgot the power supply of the keyboard at home, and it would have taken too long to drive home again to fetch it, so I bought those batteries at the next convenience store I could find in order to make it to the gig in time. Those were then handed down to and used up in my boombox before I bought the next set of rechargeables for it in 2010 (and by that time, they were already leaking).
- In 2011 I bought an 8-pack of alkaline AA's from the discount store for the transmitter of my RC car. In the transmitter, the batteries are rather difficult to exchange, and I don't have 8 equal rechargeables. At the rate I'm using the RC car, I figured the alkalines would last for roughly 8 years anyway. I do use rechargeables for the car itself which is more power-hungry than its transmitter. Actually, that 8-pack was originally bought for the old digital kitchen scale because I thought that the batteries were the reason for it not working, but it turned out the scale itself was broken.
- In 2012 I bought some lithium CR2032 cells for the new digital kitchen scale after the one it came with only lasted for a year, but it turned out that the replacement lasts longer because it hasn't died yet.
And somehow I got an 8-pack of Duracell AA's which must have been bought in 2000 or 2001 by my parents for wall clocks and such, but I'm not sure if I should count that.

You could always take the cells out when they are finished discharging, but you'll have to monitor that.

Well, it's not that severe. I think most alkaline batteries will stand some amount of being charged and even somewhat keep the charge, though some might gas and explode when being overcharged. Or they will simply leak when recharged (especially those who are likely to leak anyway). I once tried to recharge a dead 9V battery in a dumb charger, but it only took about 57 mAh before reaching a voltage peak (which looks similar to that of NiCd or NiMh batteries, but at a higher voltage). I charged it far beyond that, and it started to gas, and then the cells first knocked off the cover and then parts of them shot out of the battery like rockets. But it might have been safe, and the battery even somewhat useable, if I had stopped the charge at the voltage peak. However, 57 mAh is much less than any rechargeable 9V would take. And this 9V was by the brand which is mentioned most often concerning leakage, and is even reported to leak often when recharged, so my mileage might have been better with another brand, and it might even be safe to recharge the AmazonBasics alkalines.

This is exactly the reason i hold onto my crap NiMH batteries. They work fine in low drain devices and you don't have to worry about alkaline leakage. I have very little use for alkalines anymore with aged/high-IR NiMH cells ready to go.

Yes, that's my plan as well. The lowest-drain devices will get the alkalines that came with devices, and the highest-drain devices will get the best rechargeables, with the worse ones being handed down to the devices in the middle where a set of batteries would last anywhere between 6 months and 2 years. However, it also depends on the peak power consumption of the device and the way the rechargeables are aging (capacity / internal resistance / self-discharge). That plan is skewed in favor of alkalines if I've still got alkalines laying around, but all rechargables are in use, and towards rechargeables if I've got spare rechargeables, but no alkalines, so it differs a bit by battery size.
 

markr6

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All good points here. We sort of turned it into an alkaline vs NiMH thread but that's OK.

I've NEVER had an alkaline leak. Ever. Lucky? Something to do with the actual device? Usage? I don't know. I do remember pulling 4 AAs out of my Gameboy I had stored for...who knows...10+ years? I put some new ones in and everything worked fine. Final Fantasy FTW!!

Anyway, I don't think you'll see me throwing NiMH, no matter how cheap (within reason) into my kids toys. Most of them take 2-4AA. We probably have a dozen toys, that's at least 24 AAs right there. I have just about that many Eneloops already being used in "worthy" equipment like flashlights and camera flash.

I guess I could buy a 16-pack of Amazon Basics rechargeables right now for $26.69, or $1.67/per cell. If we want to focus on just these toys, that would get a majority of them covered.

Looking back, I still like having these expendable alkalines around...but I think I (and you all) just convinced me to get some cheaper, but good rechargeables for "unworthy" devices. But I need to remember StarHalo's comment: "A $2.50 device doesn't really deserve $5 of cutting-edge battery technology." I think that will always hold true for me.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Looking back, I still like having these expendable alkalines around...but I think I (and you all) just convinced me to get some cheaper, but good rechargeables for "unworthy" devices. But I need to remember StarHalo's comment: "A $2.50 device doesn't really deserve $5 of cutting-edge battery technology." I think that will always hold true for me.
I go more by cost over time myself that take years to use batteries up leaning towards alkalines has some logic to it but even a $2.50 device can be a good candidate for $5 batteries if you go through a set a month or so over a year you can pay for the batteries and decent nimh should last a few years in service for sure at 2 years you can then use the savings to buy another set of $5 batteries for use in something else. The cheaper the device (and ease of replacing it if needed) and the lower the drain the more alkalines do have their place still. I think all of us wish lithium primaries were a dollar each then alkalines would probably be almost obsolete but in disposable devices.
 

more_vampires

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I just bit the bullet and Eneloop-ed everything. I'll still have a fat stack of them in 15 years. If the S meets the F, I'll be stacked for emergency DC power.

*shrug.*

Now and then, I go through my remaining stack of alkies and throw away the ones that are leaking. I don't even bother with a voltage test. It's super-lazy and that's just my style. :)

L91/L92 are the only primaries I buy anymore. I can justify it because 95% of my stuff is Eneloop-ed.
 
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