Another Keychain Flashlight thread

[Polargirl]

I read through a few of them but none seemed to answer my questions.

What is the brightest (in lumens) keychain flashlight that actually fits a keychain? By that, I mean not being much bigger than anything else on a keychain.

Ideally, I would like a very small protected rechargeable battery flashlight but will go with a AAA flashlight if the smallest protected rechargeable battery flashlight still looks too big for a keychain or is too fragile for one. I am not at all interested in unprotected rechargeable battery keychains.

I may as well ask what is the best keychain flashlight as well.

 

[mcnair55]

I think you will find your request does not really exist but if you will accept AAA/AA or CR123 there are plenty to choose from.The Fenix E15 is bright and small and people like Nitecore etc make something like that,you have plenty of choice just surf around.

 

[Polargirl]

I think you will find your request does not really exist but if you will accept AAA/AA or CR123 there are plenty to choose from.The Fenix E15 is bright and small and people like Nitecore etc make something like that,you have plenty of choice just surf around.

AAA and I guess CR123 is probably fine, especially if they are rechargable. My husband just bought a TM26 from Nitecore. I am not sure their smallest flashlights are all that appealing even if the TM26 is awesome.

 

[ven]

If it is AAA the yoyoman has a beautiful "set" of lights.

For money,imo the olight i3s is a hard one to beat,just change the key attachment as it will break and could loose the light.

 

[Polargirl]

Thanks for the suggestion. Is there any way to buy protected batteries for the MBI HF–R? I really love that flashlight but a bit squeamish to use unprotected cells due to my lithium ignorance.

 

[mcnair55]

Thanks for the suggestion. Is there any way to buy protected batteries for the MBI HF–R? I really love that flashlight but a bit squeamish to use unprotected cells due to my lithium ignorance.

This is a terrible hobby to scare new users with bogey man stories and experienced users should try and reassure users.Single cells do not need protection like multiple cells do.Common sense is all that is needed with any type of battery.I truly find the Anorak wearing armchair scientists are a blight on my hobby.

My rules are simple and i follow them.

I never leave any charger on if i am going out(even nipping to the shop for milk etc)
All my shelf queen lights are powered up with Eneloop type.
All my much used items are powered up with good quality Alkalines and generally Procell(Non retail Duracell)
For r/c cars i use mainly Lipo with charging bags.
All my batteries are boxed using a simple rotation system.

Common sense and care is your best friend.

 

[Polargirl]

This is a terrible hobby to scare new users with bogey man stories and experienced users should try and reassure users.Single cells do not need protection like multiple cells do.Common sense is all that is needed with any type of battery.I truly find the Anorak wearing armchair scientists are a blight on my hobby.

My rules are simple and i follow them.

I never leave any charger on if i am going out(even nipping to the shop for milk etc)
All my shelf queen lights are powered up with Eneloop type.
All my much used items are powered up with good quality Alkalines and generally Procell(Non retail Duracell)
For r/c cars i use mainly Lipo with charging bags.
All my batteries are boxed using a simple rotation system.

Common sense and care is your best friend.

I am familiar with basic electricity/electronics but I do not know the first thing about unprotected lithium batteries. The only things I am aware of is recharge and discharge speed and capacity limits but don't know what they are for the 10250 battery custom made for this light. There are probably other safety issues like temperature, high altitude air pressure...etc that I don't know about that I really need to. If someone could walk me through the basic safety for this specific battery and either of the MBI chargers, I would greatly appreciate it and probably buy it. I don't know how complex that is thus if it is asking too much from a forum.

 

[ven]

Polargirl,i have recently moved my i3s to work keys and now gone even smaller on 10180 cells so 10mm wide and 18mm long(think just a little over a 1/3 of an AAA cell in size)
left is the 10180 next to an AAA


dqg spy next to i3s



more here
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?379796-DQG-SPY

All depends on size,what cells preferred etc,i like to have a few options

 

[Polargirl]

Polargirl,i have recently moved my i3s to work keys and now gone even smaller on 10180 cells so 10mm wide and 18mm long(think just a little over a 1/3 of an AAA cell in size)
left is the 10180 next to an AAA


dqg spy next to i3s



more here
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?379796-DQG-SPY

All depends on size,what cells preferred etc,i like to have a few options

I Google Shop searched but could not find the link. Please PM it to me if you cannot post it in the thread.

 

[yoyoman]

Edit: I am not an expert. I have read the basics in CPF and Battey University. These are the rules I follow and they work for me.

For single cell applications, the basic rules are don't over charge and don't over discharge. Most good chargers will prevent over discharge. Some lights and dropins have low voltage warnings and cut off. But not all. Very small lights, running 10180 cells, generally don't have low voltage warning or cut off. You may or may not notice the output dropping. They also have low capacity - my Peak Eiger will run for about 10 minutes on H, but has more reasonable runtime on lower output. This means you top off the cell on a regular basis. This will not hurt the cell and will even prolong its useful life. I use a charger from cottonpickers on the CPF marketplace. It has a few low settings for charging 10180, 10440 (AAA) cells and a basic volt meter. I check the voltage before I use the light if there is a chance that I will run it for a long time. I don't check the voltage if I'm just walking the dog. But I do check the voltage if there is a chance that I will run the light for a long time. It is important to read up and understand what you're doing. But it is not that difficult. And learning is a fun part of our hobby.

"An educated consumer is our best customer." Sy Simms

 

[Polargirl]

For single cell applications, the basic rules are don't over charge and don't over discharge. Most good chargers will prevent over discharge. Some lights and dropins have low voltage warnings and cut off. But not all. Very small lights, running 10180 cells, generally don't have low voltage warning or cut off. You may or may not notice the output dropping. They also have low capacity - my Peak Eiger will run for about 10 minutes on H, but has more reasonable runtime on lower output. This means you top off the cell on a regular basis. This will not hurt the cell and will even prolong its useful life. I use a charger from cottonpickers on the CPF marketplace. It has a few low settings for charging 10180, 10440 (AAA) cells and a basic volt meter. I check the voltage before I use the light if there is a chance that I will run it for a long time. I don't check the voltage if I'm just walking the dog. But I do check the voltage if there is a chance that I will run the light for a long time. It is important to read up and understand what you're doing. But it is not that difficult.

"An educated consumer is our best customer." Sy Simms

If for some crazy reason that I do decide to buy this flashlight, I will definitely buy the battery and charger directly from MBI. Hopefully that can help with specifics.

 

[yoyoman]

I updated my post slightly. I suggest a very basic volt meter. Cottonpickers sells one. Actually, now that I think of it, MBI sells cottonpickers chargers on their site.

Also brightest is not always best. That's why lights have multiple modes. How will you use this light? That is the starting point.

 

[Polargirl]

I updated my post slightly. I suggest a very basic volt meter. Cottonpickers sells one. Actually, now that I think of it, MBI sells cottonpickers chargers on their site.

Also brightest is not always best. That's why lights have multiple modes. How will you use this light? That is the starting point.

As a keychain light. Seldom used unless needed for a minute or two but maybe to show off a bit as well.

 

[yoyoman]

Some pictures.

AAA lights

From the left: DQG AAA, Preon PO, AO, Klarus Ti, Nitecore T5s, Titanium Innovations AAA, OLight i3S, Dereelight DA3, Maratac AAA, Lumintop Worm, ThruNite Ti2, Tank007 EO9, LumaPower, LuminTop Tool, Preon P1, Prometheus QR, MicroStream, Pelican 1910

Sub-AAA lights

From the left: Peak Eiger 10180 body with Oveready delrin cap, Tain Ottavino 10280, cut down Maratac AAA, cut down Lumintop Worm, Peak Eiger 10180 with Oveready Nichia 219 mule, DQG Spy

 

[Polargirl]

Right now, it seems to be coming down to a choice between the MBI HF–R or the DQG Spy. If there are protected cells that can be used in the HF–R, then I will definitely go with that.

 

[ven]

I got mine from banggood,also cnqualitygoods ,iirc though they have the brass version in and may have sold out of the ti.

Worth a look on their shop anyway,some great value lights,might find another that suits

 

[Polargirl]

I got mine from banggood,also cnqualitygoods ,iirc though they have the brass version in and may have sold out of the ti.

Worth a look on their shop anyway,some great value lights,might find another that suits

Now that I read about the MBI Torpedo, I'll probably wait for that to come out on the market. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't that the consumer safe version of the HF–F? I PMed The Man With No Name asking him about Torpedo's progress. I'd also like a price estimate that I forgot to ask him.

 

[yoyoman]

Updated my post with pictures to add some names to the family members.

 

[Polargirl]

Updated my post with pictures to add some names to the family members.

Thank you for doing so. Is it too much trouble to add lumens on each one to the update?

 

[Monocrom]

AAA and I guess CR123 is probably fine, especially if they are rechargable. My husband just bought a TM26 from Nitecore. I am not sure their smallest flashlights are all that appealing even if the TM26 is awesome.

Even the smallest single-CR123 light is going to be just too fat for many folks to carry on a keychain. Best to stick with a single-AAA model as the upper limit in size.