Another Keychain Flashlight thread

[mcnair55]

Yup...great light until you need to buy batteries, damn crap cost more then the light. Wish it wasn't that way.

In the UK you can buy large cards of watch cells for a £1 from pound shops and other tat shops so running the Nano is not to bad.I use mine as a zipper pull.

 

[18650]

I have read that you want an AAA flashlight, so you may disregard this post I currently using Streamlight's Nano Light. It's very small and IMHO is the brightest keychain light using 5mm LED.

Too bad, it's using 4 alkaline button cells (IEC-LR41) and only throw out 10 lumens out from its emitter.

Honestly not much of a size difference compared to a Preon P0 if you're going to use the claw at the end.

 

[Tooly]

Honestly not much of a size difference compared to a Preon P0 if you're going to use the claw at the end.

Damn...now you got me wanting a preon po.

 

[adnj]

LiIon batteries are no problem when you use them one at a time. Get a decent voltmeter - you should have one anyway. Get a decent charger that matches the capacity of the batteries. Swap and charge the battery regularly.

 

[mcnair55]

LiIon batteries are no problem when you use them one at a time. Get a decent voltmeter - you should have one anyway. Get a decent charger that matches the capacity of the batteries. Swap and charge the battery regularly.

Why should I use a volt meter?, never read that on any instruction sheet before, time to buy a new jacket.

 

[invisible_kid]

You should read my thread that i started a few weeks back. I was in same positioned as yourself and ended up getting the MBI HF. I can also understand why other battery types would scare you but they are safe as long as you read up on them and find out how to handle them safely. Main reason i moved away from the AAA route was that these batteries offer much more versatility. You could always do what i did and get a AAA light like the Fenix EO5 and a HF I plan on getting the torpedo as well as the Zeus think the MBI lights are fantastic. You won't regret buying them I promise you.

Thanks

David

 

[yoyoman]

Why should I use a volt meter?, never read that on any instruction sheet before, time to buy a new jacket.

I've bought li-ions many times and they have never come with an instruction sheet. That's why there are threads on CPF and Battery University.

I have a simple voltage meter from cottonpickers and it is useful for many reasons. Let's me know when to top off cells, let's me make sure the cells are balanced in multi-cell setups and let's me use li-ions with confidence in lights/dropins that don't have low voltage warning or cutoff. Very useful. I do use unprotected 18650 li-ions with single cell lights/dropins with low voltage warning and cutoff. And I also use unprotected cells in AAA and sub-AAA lights. So I am not a doomsday type. A voltage meter is useful - just like the gas gauge in my car.

 

[sandalian]

Damn...now you got me wanting a preon po.

Yep, me too :thinking:

 

[mcnair55]

I've bought li-ions many times and they have never come with an instruction sheet. That's why there are threads on CPF and Battery University.

I have a simple voltage meter from cottonpickers and it is useful for many reasons. Let's me know when to top off cells, let's me make sure the cells are balanced in multi-cell setups and let's me use li-ions with confidence in lights/dropins that don't have low voltage warning or cutoff. Very useful. I do use unprotected 18650 li-ions with single cell lights/dropins with low voltage warning and cutoff. And I also use unprotected cells in AAA and sub-AAA lights. So I am not a doomsday type. A voltage meter is useful - just like the gas gauge in my car.

At least i understand why i need no meter and have no intention of buying one either,sorry chap i do not mess about topping up etc as it never said so on the instruction sheet i never got,I will stick to using my lights without all the scientific theories.

 

[Polargirl]

You should read my thread that i started a few weeks back. I was in same positioned as yourself and ended up getting the MBI HF. I can also understand why other battery types would scare you but they are safe as long as you read up on them and find out how to handle them safely. Main reason i moved away from the AAA route was that these batteries offer much more versatility. You could always do what i did and get a AAA light like the Fenix EO5 and a HF I plan on getting the torpedo as well as the Zeus think the MBI lights are fantastic. You won't regret buying them I promise you.

Thanks

David

Torpedo should be out in two months according to an email with TGWNN, so I am going to go with that as well. TGWNN also indicated in the same email exchange that a protected version of the 10250 might take another year so I guess I'll be waiting for my more desired size and will just have to use a 10440 tube in the meantime.

 

[invisible_kid]

Be worth the wait though

 

[Polargirl]

Be worth the wait though

I emphatically agree.

 

[Zorzi]

I'm researching a key chain ligh for me and my wife as well, it looks like for NiMH AAA the Olight I3S is one that received many praises from the flashaholic community here. It is expensive to buy one to Brazil, but I'm almost deciding for it, as I'm still not ready to deal with unprotected LiIon.

 

[mcnair55]

I'm researching a key chain ligh for me and my wife as well, it looks like for NiMH AAA the Olight I3S is one that received many praises from the flashaholic community here. It is expensive to buy one to Brazil, but I'm almost deciding for it, as I'm still not ready to deal with unprotected LiIon.

Unprotected should not be a problem in single cell lights.

 

[Zorzi]

Are you sure? I've read in some threads here that LiIon may vent with flames if over discharged to below 3V. That's why people recommend to have a DMM to use LiIon safely..

 

[FlashKat]

I have over 30 unprotected Li-ion batteries of different sizes and manufacturers. I have over discharged several either by the light turning on or by parasitic drain, and the only result I have had was a dead battery that you have to dispose because they died.

Are you sure? I've read in some threads here that LiIon may vent with flames if over discharged to below 3V. That's why people recommend to have a DMM to use LiIon safely..

 

[Zorzi]

Hi FlashKat, how did you know when over discharded a battery? Did you try to recharge them after that?

 

[FlashKat]

If you overdischarge it too much the battery will not recharge. If you are careful, and keep an eye on when your light dims usually the battery is good with no problem. Most lights will allow you to lockout the power switch by loosening the tailcap 1/4 to 1/2 turn, but not all lights.

Hi FlashKat, how did you know when over discharded a battery? Did you try to recharge them after that?

 

[yoyoman]

A single cell AAA or sub-AAA cell does not have a lot of capacity. That generally means you'll notice the dimming. The dimming will be noticeable while in use rather than between uses. Recharge when you notice the dimming. QTC lights can be a little tricky because you might attribute the dimming to the QTC and not the cell. I've made this mistake and slightly crushed the cell button top. (I twisted the light, it didn't get brighter and I took the cell out and charged it. Put it back in and the light was bright again.)

I was busy during the week and didn't put gas in my car. I want to go for a spin in the mountains. I can take a chance and go and hope I have enough gas. I can be cautious and stop and buy gas. Or I can look at the gas gauge. I don't see the drama. A simple volt meter for li-ion batteries can be useful because the voltage gives an indication of remaining capacity. A more complicated meter that measures voltage under load is needed for other chemistries.

Leave the scientific theories to brain surgeons and astrophysics. Chemistry and consumer electronics are based on observations. Compared to charging li-ion cells after a they are completely drained (2.5 V), topping off will increase their useful life (the number of times you recharge/cycle them). This is best practice based on use and not some complicated, convoluted theory. Battery University has some interesting information.

Two cell applications require a little more care because the cells need be balanced. This is true for li-ions, lithium primary CR123 especially, but is true for other battery chemistries. Again, no drama, no theory - just best practice based on observations.

 

[Zorzi]

Got it, thank you all for your advices! And sorry Polagirl for deviating the focus of your thread..