Anglepoise
Flashlight Enthusiast
Here is another method for consideration.
In the past, my preferred method of using an LED was as a bare emitter, as opposed to a star or round board.
My logic was that there would be a better transmission of heat with the minimum of glued or soldered surfaces.
This worked fine for Lux III's and using Arctic Alumina ( 2 part epoxy) I have never had one 'come off'.
Then along comes the P4 with it's positive base. Now some members are becoming concerned about the possibility that a thin layer of AA might not be enough and over time one could possibly get a direct electrical short. So I have read about all sorts of methods to avoid this possibility. Sadly all these required increasing the thickness of the AA or adding additional insulating layers.
I am told that Diamond transmits heat very well and is also
a good electrical insulator. I had a small vial of 30 micron Diamond dust that was absolutely clean and calibrated to size. Used in the Faceting business to cut and polish gem stones. This vial was purchased from Beta Diamond Products Click for Website and If memory serves was about $9.00 a carat.
If a tiny bit of Diamond was mixed in with the AA, there would be absolutely no way that the two metal surfaces could ever touch ( presuming both surfaces were clean and flat ) and the Diamond dust, due to it's properties, would not hinder the heat transmission ( I am guessing here ). I use a spring loaded alignment tool to assist when gluing emitters and in theory the spring will force out the glue mixture until the individual diamonds are resting on the emitter and heat sink surfaces with full electrical insulation for ever.
In my simple tests, the adhesive qualities of AA have not changed, presumably due to the very tiny amount of Diamond well mixed in to the AA.
A Carat of Diamond Dust should probably last the average modder a lifetime.
In a post last year,Newbie recommended SIC could be used, but the Diamond dust, while a little more expensive, is absolutely pure and exactly calibrated for size so IMHO would be the preferd material to add to your favorite epoxy.
Any long term problems with this method??..........
In the past, my preferred method of using an LED was as a bare emitter, as opposed to a star or round board.
My logic was that there would be a better transmission of heat with the minimum of glued or soldered surfaces.
This worked fine for Lux III's and using Arctic Alumina ( 2 part epoxy) I have never had one 'come off'.
Then along comes the P4 with it's positive base. Now some members are becoming concerned about the possibility that a thin layer of AA might not be enough and over time one could possibly get a direct electrical short. So I have read about all sorts of methods to avoid this possibility. Sadly all these required increasing the thickness of the AA or adding additional insulating layers.
I am told that Diamond transmits heat very well and is also
a good electrical insulator. I had a small vial of 30 micron Diamond dust that was absolutely clean and calibrated to size. Used in the Faceting business to cut and polish gem stones. This vial was purchased from Beta Diamond Products Click for Website and If memory serves was about $9.00 a carat.
If a tiny bit of Diamond was mixed in with the AA, there would be absolutely no way that the two metal surfaces could ever touch ( presuming both surfaces were clean and flat ) and the Diamond dust, due to it's properties, would not hinder the heat transmission ( I am guessing here ). I use a spring loaded alignment tool to assist when gluing emitters and in theory the spring will force out the glue mixture until the individual diamonds are resting on the emitter and heat sink surfaces with full electrical insulation for ever.
In my simple tests, the adhesive qualities of AA have not changed, presumably due to the very tiny amount of Diamond well mixed in to the AA.
A Carat of Diamond Dust should probably last the average modder a lifetime.
In a post last year,Newbie recommended SIC could be used, but the Diamond dust, while a little more expensive, is absolutely pure and exactly calibrated for size so IMHO would be the preferd material to add to your favorite epoxy.
Any long term problems with this method??..........