Any suggestions for neat connectors to tap DC power from a cable?

[uk_caver]

I'm looking to make up some LED lights for a friend's business, much of which is selling goods from a van, often in the evening, where some good internal lighting would be useful.
I have various ideas for the LEDs/drivers/fixtures, but was wondering if there was a neat/flexible way to do the cabling.

I was thinking the the ideal system would be connectors that clipped onto/around a flat cable to allow power to be tapped off wherever needed, but without having an idea of the best keywords to use, I'm not sure where to start looking with my electronics distributor.

Supply would be [protected] ~12V DC.
Total load on cable would be a few amps.
Drivers would be built into each light unit.
Polarity of connection wouldn't be an issue since each light unit could incorporate a bridge rectifier.
It would be nice if connectors/cable would survive the odd removal and refitment, and the cable wasn't too delicate - the ideal would be something like twin&earth for the cable.

 

[purduephotog]

I'm looking to make up some LED lights for a friend's business, much of which is selling goods from a van, often in the evening, where some good internal lighting would be useful.
I have various ideas for the LEDs/drivers/fixtures, but was wondering if there was a neat/flexible way to do the cabling.

I was thinking the the ideal system would be connectors that clipped onto/around a flat cable to allow power to be tapped off wherever needed, but without having an idea of the best keywords to use, I'm not sure where to start looking with my electronics distributor.

Supply would be [protected] ~12V DC.
Total load on cable would be a few amps.
Drivers would be built into each light unit.
Polarity of connection wouldn't be an issue since each light unit could incorporate a bridge rectifier.
It would be nice if connectors/cable would survive the odd removal and refitment, and the cable wasn't too delicate - the ideal would be something like twin&earth for the cable.

DX has some things used in RC packs- and smaller connectors for smaller currents.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15234

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10788

To be safe- make sure you turn off the power and let the LEDs draw down the current. Don't kill your crees

Consider adding an inrush thermister to save them (see threads with Blastermann)

 

[uk_caver]

I'm looking more for things to take taps off a common cable, with the tap position decidable after the cable is installed.

One possibility I considered would be PC hard drive power connectors (I seem to recall coming across at least some that were IDC snap-ons onto the wires?) but I'd prefer something that fitted onto an flat cable, rather then onto individual wires.

 

[dat2zip]

A method I really like that Don turned me onto are the scotchlok self splicing connectors specifically the three port connectors.

To add a node anywhere along the line you turn off the power, cut the cable where you want the splice. The cut connector now has two positives and two negatives. Let's call these red and black wires.

Your light fixture has two wires also possibly red and black. You take the three red and and jam them into one 3 port scotchloc and crimp it closed with pliers. Now repeat with the three black and you are done.

If you really want to be on the cheap you can use a piece of brass tube with heat shrink over it. Twist the three wires together jam into brass tube and crimp.

There are also automotive inline splices.

This is ideal to run a 12VDC cable around your house or in your attic and add nodes as you need them without pre-planning.

The UR2 connector accepts 19-26AWG wire.

These are gel filled and do not corrode over time.

Wayne

 

[usLEDsupply]

it sounds like low voltage wire taps might do the trick (as long as you don't mind using low voltage landscape lighting cable) it is not too expensive and has a large gauge for long runs, you just press the connectors in wherever you want a light and if you don't like it you can just move it. It has been a few years since i have used them but you can still buy them at lowes or home depot, as long as you don't have to worry about polarity they it should do the trick otherwise i would go with the butt connectors, We use them on our 18ga control cable (even tho they are rated for 19-29ga) you just have to get the UR 2 version for the bigger holes or you will have to strip a bit of the wire before inserting here is a page explaining how to use them (not that it's hard) it just might help if you haven't seen them before http://www.usledsupply.com/shop/ski...aterproof connection with Butt Connectors.pdf
i have seen them at home depot / lowes or you should be able to get them at an electrical supply house

 

[Paul Baldwin]

Hi,
scotchloks would get my vote too, these look cheap enough? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/25-SNAP-LOCKS...cles_Terminals_Cabling_ET?hash=item2555e1f948
and you can get 100m of 1.5mm single from screwfix for less than £16 http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24290...duit/6491B-1-5mm-LSF-Conduit-Wiring-Blue-100m
Big bag of zip ties, job done

Paul.

 

[Ken_McE]

The Kichler TaskWork Linear is a 12/24 volt track system. You mount the track, hook it to power, then you snap in light modules as you please, move 'em when you want. Choice of Xenon or LED readymade light modules.