The M6 uses 6x123A, or about 15V. The Malkoff M60 goes up to only 9V.
The McE2S from the Sandwich shoppe is great.
60 ohm resistance gives you a nice useful low on 2 cr123s with a M60.
This is a mechanical switch and is pretty bulletproof. The low is resistored so it isn't as efficient as a regulated low level, but you still get long runtimes and avoid blinding yourself.
The switch works like on the L1/L2/A2 from Surefire: Press a bit for low, press further for high. If you do this fast you don't even see the low level.
For constant on twist a bit for low, twist further for high.
Long thread about it:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/83844
They need to sell a plug-and-play tailcap, so you don't have to mess with yours.
More importantly, it only works with clickies, not Z41 twisties. I don't use clickies, the SF clickie is not all that reliable.
The McC2S only works with the Z41.More importantly, it only works with clickies, not Z41 twisties. I don't use clickies, the SF clickie is not all that reliable.
The stock M6, with 6x123A is 9V.
There are a number of two-or-more-stage tail cap options for the 6P.
Check the Sandwich Shoppe for the Mc2 modification for Surefire switches.
Check LightHound for a few different options.
Any specific experience with this?IMO, the aftermarket tailcaps will reduce reliability.
Gene says to expect 15-20 lumens with the 60 ohm resistor.The McE2S from the Sandwich shoppe is great.
60 ohm resistance gives you a nice useful low on 2 cr123s with a M60.
This is a mechanical switch and is pretty bulletproof. The low is resistored so it isn't as efficient as a regulated low level, but you still get long runtimes and avoid blinding yourself.
How do you know this? Have you ever had a SF clickie fail? SF's updated clickie has had a pretty good reliability record on CPF.I don't use clickies, the SF clickie is not all that reliable.
Ah, ok. So you previously say that they are unreliable, yet you have never had a SF failure of any kind.:duh2:I never had a SF fail due to tailcap or internal driver
Be aware that the UNIQ tailcap has been reported on CPF to draw power even when the light is off. IIRC, the draw is such that your (R)CR123A cells might get drained pretty quickly. Also, you need to check to make sure that when the tailcap is "off", the LED drop-in of interest actually turns off. Some of these electronic tailcaps don't work properly with certain drop-ins and you get a "moonglow" mode when the light should be completely off.
I have the UNIQ tailcap switch setup and have not noticed any appreciable drop in voltage using it. When storing it your can unscrew it a 1/10 of an inch or so and it is locked out. Not to be a big concern. AW's soft start 3 level switch works well above 6 volts. I have that setup too. Again, simple to lock it out also. I have noticed some issues with an older Malkoff M60 (actually called a Malkoff P60), using the UNIQ, with it not turning off completely, a glow, like you mentioned. The so called draw from these PWM type switches can be in the 1/1,000.000 of a volt range, maybe more.
Bill