Are these CR2 batteries rechargeables?

[9volt]

I bought a light recently and the seller included some CR2 batteries and said they were standard primarys. They look like rechargeables to me, what do you think?

I guess I'm no battery expert, but many of the rechargeables I've got look exactly like this with a blue cover. The only marks on these are "CR2".

 

[Cuso]

Hmm do you own a Multimeter?? Try testing them for voltage...They probably are the unprotected kind too

 

[9volt]

Hmm do you own a Multimeter?? Try testing them for voltage...

I have one but I haven't seen it in a while...

 

[9volt]

Ok, I found it, but I'm an idiot when it comes to using this thing. What would I set it to to test for voltage?


(Click to make the pic bigger)

 

[9volt]

When I set it to DCV20 I get 3.28 for most of these batteries. Does that tell you one way or another what they are?

 

[Illum]

considering most rechargeables are 3.6V nominal, 4.2V max 3.28
sounds like a rechargeable....[edited]
the rechargeable CR2 [called RCR2P] is referred to as 15270, meaning they are 15mm diameter 27mm long and 0 for cylindrical....use a rule and measure your batteries, if not, they might be actual CR2 batteries used in camera batteries such as this http://www.onlybatteries.com/webimages/images/13015.jpg

 

[HarryN]

When I set it to DCV20 I get 3.28 for most of these batteries. Does that tell you one way or another what they are?

Well, it figures that yours are right where you can't tell for sure. 3.28 is what you would expect from a new primary or a mostly discharged R.

It will be easy to tell pretty fast though. If they are R type, then they are almost dead. If they are primary, they are fresh.

 

[9volt]

considering most rechargeables are 3.6V nominal, 4.2V max 3.28 sounds like a rechargeable....the output of a CR2 should only exceed ~3V

Nice. So would the next step to test these be to put one on a charger and see if the voltage goes up?

I'm hesitant to put them on a charger in case they aren't RCRs. AFAIK that would be bad

http://www.moviewavs.com/php/sounds...movie=Ghostbusters&quote=bad.txt&file=bad.mp3

 

[electromage]

Don't charge them yet! Brand new Lithium primaries typically show a little over 3.3V. I just tested one from my pocket. I'd get in touch with whoever you bought them from and figure out where/how they got them.

 

[9volt]

If I ran one down to mostly dead and then checked the voltage would that give me useful info?

 

[HarryN]

If they are of any decent quality at all primary cells, they will have at least 1/2 the performance of the normal CR2s that silverfox tested (see the top sticky thread on various theads of interest).

Maybe I should put this a different way. If they are primary cells, and you try to R them, it WILL be a disaster - within hours if not faster.

If they are unprotected R cells, and you try to charge them, they likely WILL be a disaster within months.

There are known, documented cases of experienced CPF posters ending up very ill / near hospitalized over trying this.

AWs protected R cells are so cheap nowdays - why bother fooling with it?

 

[electromage]

If I ran one down to mostly dead and then checked the voltage would that give me useful info?

It depends on the equipment that you run it down to "mostly dead" with.

 

[9volt]

Well it took about 15 minutes in an Orb Raw on low to get down to a pretty weak beam. I put it on the tester after that and it reads 2.96. Is it correct that 2.96 on a primary should be a mostly full cell?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[electromage]

I have a discharged primary here that was in my Novatac, I pulled it out when the light started dimming to indicate a low battery condition and it reads 2.971 after being at rest for some time. I just stuck it in my UltraFire 602 to see what happens.

 

[Illum]

Don't charge them yet! Brand new Lithium primaries typically show a little over 3.3V. I just tested one from my pocket. I'd get in touch with whoever you bought them from and figure out where/how they got them.

something tells me my meters not working, it could just be eyeballing error since its analog but I haven't bought a cr123A or a cr2 that registered exactly 3V, let along 3.3V

on the serious note, don't charge them, as charging a primary is asking for

 

[electromage]

I'm actually at work right now, and I'm running a test, but in 15 minutes I'll give you the voltage at which a cell phone shuts off.

 

[electromage]

something tells me my meters not working, it could just be eyeballing error since its analog but I haven't bought a cr123A or a cr2 that registered exactly 3V, let along 3.3V

on the serious note, don't charge them, as charging a primary is asking for

As you probably know from the other thread, I'm using Titanium brand. Maybe they just have more energy than your cells

 

[electromage]

Alright, that mostly spent cell just ran 5 minutes in my UltraFire, and got a bit warm itself (not the LED, it was dim). After two minutes at rest it's at 2.79V. I believe you have a dead cell whether it's primary or rechargeable.

 

[Cuso]

I think the common solution would be to ask the seller of the batteries. Early Orbs shipped with unprotected batts, try asking on the Orb thread or AW , he supplies Robs batts and he should know.

 

[electromage]

OK, so my Ham radio (Yaesu VX-6r) displays a low battery warning at 3.5V/cell, and flashes it at 3V/cell.

Most cell phones are less forgiving, and display a low battery warning at 3.6V. I have two here I'm testing with and they are actually shutting down at 3.585V. BTW, these are HTC Windows Mobile phones, but I believe most phones are the same. It's probably to increase the cycle life at the expense of a bit of runtime.