AW 3C Lithium and 1185

creampuff

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So far I have been running the two of the AW C Lithium cells with a Mag 2C host and FM tail cap + ROP Hi, and have been very impressed. Just wondering if I get a Mag 3C host + FM gold/ceramic socket + FM tailcap will I need a longer cool down period for the lithium cells (compared to the NiMH setup) before I instaflash the 1185 and have a $6 moment??
 
Several people said the 1185 and 3 li-ion C's are fine, but the failure you posted Lux is pretty much what I figured since the C cell is a little stouter than the smaller ones usually used with this lamp.

I would like to know what lamps have good reliability with three of AW's li-ion C cells in a Mag 3C host because this can be an awesome flamethrower in a cheap, reasonably sized host.
 
problem is that resting li-ion cells does very little to reduce the inicial oomf available. Best way to do it would be to terminate charges early. Like at maybe 4.00-4.10 volts per cell, instead of taking it up to 4.200.. Doing this will not only help save the bulb, but will increase cell cycle life substancially, at the loss of some runtime. Well worth the trade-off IMO.
 
problem is that resting li-ion cells does very little to reduce the inicial oomf available. Best way to do it would be to terminate charges early. Like at maybe 4.00-4.10 volts per cell, instead of taking it up to 4.200.. Doing this will not only help save the bulb, but will increase cell cycle life substancially, at the loss of some runtime. Well worth the trade-off IMO.

Agreed. But luckily I have a few AWR Hot Drivers to pop in lights like this.
 
Agreed. But luckily I have a few AWR Hot Drivers to pop in lights like this.
Looks like I might just stick with my 2C ROP Hi setup for now, visibly I can barely discern the difference between the ROP HI and WA1111 with a FM ceramic holder.

Due to AWR current predicament :sick2:, is he the only show in town when it comes to regulators/drivers for the Mag85 setup? Or is there another source out there, that will take less than 5 years to receive a product once ordered? :)
 
I use a Triton to charge my AW C cells, to 4.1X volts. Hot off the charger I have had no problem with the 1185. As SilverFox notes, you will also extend the life of your cells charging to 4.1x, rather than 4.2X.

I use the Fivemega tail cap, Golden bi-pin adapter, and Dual funtion reflector to make a nice little light.

AWR and I have exchanged E-mails. He still sells the Hotdriver. In my case I am going to send him one of mine for repair.
 
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Not to hijack the thread but,
AW says the 3x18500 and 3x18650 will power the 1185.
Do those instiflash the 1185 as bad as the CLi and what are the estimated Run times of the 18500 and 18650.
 
Concerning the Triton, I bought mine new on E-bay. The Triton 2 is now available with the capacity to charge higher capcities. I have found the Triton touchy when charging NiCad, and NiMh packs. Mine has a tendency to terminate the charge pre-maturely. The end of charge sensitivity is adjustable. I am going to try another setting to reduce early termination problems.

Charging Lion cells seems to be the Triton's strong point. I do think, however, my next charger will be the new Hyperion with the ability to charge the new A123s.
 
I run an 1166 on 3C cells.Fully charged(4.2V) it's a little overdriven,and at the end a little underdriven.The nice thing about this set up is that you can tell when the batterys are getting down to it, the lamp starts to turn yellowish.
DON
 
I run an 1166 on 3C cells.Fully charged(4.2V) it's a little overdriven,and at the end a little underdriven.The nice thing about this set up is that you can tell when the batterys are getting down to it, the lamp starts to turn yellowish.
DON

What runtimes are you getting with this setup?

Thanks!
 
What runtimes are you getting with this setup?

Thanks!

1.5 hrs but I don't run the batteries down below 3.6V rested.I have a mag 85,11,66 and ROP and I use the 1166 the most.It's lightweight,smaller than the 85 and 11 with much longer runtime.The ROP is a little smaller but with .5 hrs of runtime not as useful.If I could only have 1 hotwire it would be the 1166 with AW's C cells.The 1166,1185.and the 1111 are all very white.The ROP is a little yellow even at 7.2V. I'm sure the 1111 with 2 C cells would be a nice (small) light but would only have about 1 hr. of runtime,still I'm thinking of building one.
DON
 
problem is that resting li-ion cells does very little to reduce the inicial oomf available. Best way to do it would be to terminate charges early. Like at maybe 4.00-4.10 volts per cell, instead of taking it up to 4.200.. Doing this will not only help save the bulb, but will increase cell cycle life substancially, at the loss of some runtime. Well worth the trade-off IMO.


I have also heard you say not to run them below 3.8V for best lifespan. So you think 3.8-4.1V is the optimum range for lithium-ion batteries?

Personally to me, this is just not worth it. I would rather have the runtime. When my lithium ions won't hold above 4V anymore, I'll just buy new ones.
 
can someone with the 3 C in a 2C setup post a pic of it? i bought the FM stainless steel tailcap (for 2C) but i cant fit in 3 C batts......(Energizers).... :thinking:
 
can someone with the 3 C in a 2C setup post a pic of it? i bought the FM stainless steel tailcap (for 2C) but i cant fit in 3 C batts......(Energizers).... :thinking:

I think there was a misunderstanding or someone said something wrong. FM's tailcap gives a little extra room in a C Mag, because AW C Li-Ion cells are about 3mm longer than typical C cells (like Duracell Alkaline). So a 2-C Mag fits 2 AW C Li-Ions with FM's tailcap. 3 Li-Ions need a 3-C Mag

Also, to clarify some of the earlier posts about powering a WA-1185 with 3 x Li-Ion cells....that will work if you have enough resistance in the stock parts of a Mag (springs, bipin holder, switch), and more robust Li-Ions like the AW C cell, or 17670....but if you do all the various 'resistance fixes' that are described elsewhere, the 12.6V (3 x 4.2V--especially the initial startup spike) can flash-kill your bulb, or dramatically shorten its lifespan.

The 1185 does great with 10.85Vbulb. The 1166 does great with 12.55V which you cannot really get from a 3 x Li-Ion setup.
 
:oops: i thoguht the tailcap would allow me to use three "C" cells in a 2C mag... :(

no biggy.... :naughty: i'm sure i will find a use for it eventually...
 
I've gone through about a dozen charge cycles on my FM85. I charge the AW C's up to 4.20 with an Ultrafire 139 charger (I monitor it, mine goes green right at 4.2).

So far, still on the original WA1185 bulb. But I'm crossing my fingers because fresh off the charger the beam is very white :)
 
...So far, still on the original WA1185 bulb. But I'm crossing my fingers because fresh off the charger the beam is very white :)

That is entirely possible, because you have enough resistance in your flashlight parts that some of the 12.6+ volts (& current to the bulb) is being blunted....in essence protecting your 1185.

My first FiveMega light was a 3D Mag85 that uses 3 stacks of 3 x 17500 Li-Ion cells, with everything stock. Those bulbs have lasted a very long time. If I did any resistance fixes, they would not last as long.
 
so i guess i'll supply the flashporn for this thread.

DSC02105.jpg


the these are my 2nd and third builds in the making. i guess this is a sneak peak.

a) black mag 2c. leaden finned head from aspheric. AW soft start and multi-brightness to be used with WA1111 or 5761. black KIU with blue glowpowder. note the kiu holes are much bigger. i just ran a bigger bit through with my drill. KIU bezels open beer bottles well. but leaves a nasty little ding.
*waiting to install FM tailcap here*

b) black mag3c with personal touch with KIU bezel. bigger holes and green glow. KIU high temp socket for use with WA1185 and *FM tailcap coming soon*


anywho, these are all to be used with AW's c lions. i would like my family to just grab one of these when they need. is it advisable to keep LIon batteries charged and laid to rest.. and if so, how long should they rest on the shelf. i will unscrew for the AW driver, as it will drain a tiny amount.
 

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