Awesome Kai Cree!

[ET3]

I got mine today. I think its brighter than my L2D on high but less than turbo. Around 100 lumens? Two hose clamps and I've got a cheap, decent, bike light.

 

[robo21]

I got mine yesterday. KD CREE 5 Mode Single AA. I was initially impressed with the output and the 5 modes. Then after only 30 minutes and 4 or 5 cycles through the modes it broke and now i only have 1 mode. At least it still turns on in the high mode.

I sent KD sales department a sales question about the light and simultaneously sent their tech support department an email about my problem and only the sales department replied. :thumbsdow This was just a test to see if either would respond and determine if their office was open.

I didn't expect much for $15 but it's still a disappointment. If anybody has any experience with a fix or dealing with KD, please advise.

TIA

 

[Luminescent]

I got mine yesterday. KD CREE 5 Mode Single AA. I was initially impressed with the output and the 5 modes. Then after only 30 minutes and 4 or 5 cycles through the modes it broke and now i only have 1 mode. At least it still turns on in the high mode.

I sent KD sales department a sales question about the light and simultaneously sent their tech support department an email about my problem and only the sales department replied. :thumbsdow This was just a test to see if either would respond and determine if their office was open.

I didn't expect much for $15 but it's still a disappointment. If anybody has any experience with a fix or dealing with KD, please advise.

TIA

The Kai light uses a nanjig 09 driver board which has two PCB's. The bottom PCB has the main boost converter electronics, and the upper board has a PIC microcontroller, and a small MosFet to provide the PWM switching control to create the different power levels.

Sounds like the MosFet shorted, or your CPU crapped out on the upper board. This is what we refer to in the engineering biz as an 'infant mortality'.

I would ask Kaidomain to RMA and replace your light.

Kai has a convenient product return address in this country so at least you won't have to send it back to China [the U.S. address is in MIAMI FL, the full address is on their we site, but like any company, you need to get an RMA authorization first, so hopfully Kaidomain tech support will respond fairly soon].
For future reference, please also note that these Kai lights use fairly standard "Elly" style hardware and electornics, so if you are handy with a soldering iron and are worried about future problems, you can get a spare driver from DX for $3.50 (assuming that the head of your light is not too heavly potted with epoxy so you can get inside).

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7302

My Kaidomain light is not epoxied, so I ordered one of the DX version drivers, because I noticed that the DX version specs a lower low mode than the one I am seeing on my light now (The DX version lists 100%, 35%, and 10% where I seem to be seeing something like 100%, 75% and 35% on my Kaidomain 5 mode light).

This may or may not work out because DX is a little spotty on tech info sometimes so it remains to be seen if the driver will actually have a lower low power mode or not (because it seems to be the same exact module used in the Kaidomain light), but the PWM ratios are set in software on the little PIC12F629 cpu on the board, and the manufacture (Nanjig) could have quite easily responded to the numerous complaints about the low not being low enough and changed the programming in the little CPU on this version.

Good luck, and I hope Kaidomain fixes this up for you as quickly as possible.

P.S.
By listing the driver, I am not implying that you should be stuck replacing it yourself, because Kaidomain should fix this up for you at this point, but for future reference, I wanted you to be aware that spare parts like drivers, lenses etc are readily and inexpensively available for these "Elly" style Kaidomain lights.

By the way, don't every try a 10440 style lithium cell (3.6 volts) in this light because it will fry immediately (the 1.5 volt Energizer E1 style lithium's are fine, if you can afford them).

 

[robo21]

The Kai light uses a nanjig 09 driver board which has two PCB's. The bottom PCB has the main boost converter electronics, and the upper board has a PIC microcontroller, and a small MosFet to provide the PWM switching control to create the different power levels.

Sounds like the MosFet shorted, or your CPU crapped out on the upper board. This is what we refer to in the engineering biz as an 'infant mortality'.

I would ask Kaidomain to RMA and replace your light.

Kai has a convenient product return address in this country so at least you won't have to send it back to China [the U.S. address is in MIAMI FL, the full address is on their we site, but like any company, you need to get an RMA authorization first, so hopfully Kaidomain tech support will respond fairly soon].
For future reference, please also note that these Kai lights use fairly standard "Elly" style hardware and electornics, so if you are handy with a soldering iron and are worried about future problems, you can get a spare driver from DX for $3.50 (assuming that the head of your light is not too heavly potted with epoxy so you can get inside).

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7302

My Kaidomain light is not epoxied, so I ordered one of the DX version drivers, because I noticed that the DX version specs a lower low mode than the one I am seeing on my light now (The DX version lists 100%, 35%, and 10% where I seem to be seeing something like 100%, 75% and 35% on my Kaidomain 5 mode light).

This may or may not work out because DX is a little spotty on tech info sometimes so it remains to be seen if the driver will actually have a lower low power mode or not (because it seems to be the same exact module used in the Kaidomain light), but the PWM ratios are set in software on the little PIC12F629 cpu on the board, and the manufacture (Nanjig) could have quite easily responded to the numerous complaints about the low not being low enough and changed the programming in the little CPU on this version.

Good luck, and I hope Kaidomain fixes this up for you as quickly as possible.

P.S.
By listing the driver, I am not implying that you should be stuck replacing it yourself, because Kaidomain should fix this up for you at this point, but for future reference, I wanted you to be aware that spare parts like drivers, lenses etc are readily and inexpensively available for these "Elly" style Kaidomain lights.

By the way, don't every try a 10440 style lithium cell (3.6 volts) in this light because it will fry immediately (the 1.5 volt Energizer E1 style lithium's are fine, if you can afford them).

Thank you for the great reply. Since my post I have received a second reply from "Dora" in the sales dept. What I told her in my email to her was "My 5 mode failed after 30 minutes and now only works in the high mode." Her response was

"I apologize for that.

So the 5 modes changed to 1 modes after working 30 minutes? By the way, what the battery did you used?
- Uses one 1.2V AA or one 1.5V AA battery

Let me know please, i will arrange the order after hear you back again.

Your support was greatly appreciated."

I provided her with the battery info and am awaiting a reply. It's good to know that these lights can be repaired/modded with a little effort.

Thanks again.

Robin

 

[robo21]

The Kai light uses a nanjig 09 driver board which has two PCB's. The bottom PCB has the main boost converter electronics, and the upper board has a PIC microcontroller, and a small MosFet to provide the PWM switching control to create the different power levels.

Sounds like the MosFet shorted, or your CPU crapped out on the upper board. This is what we refer to in the engineering biz as an 'infant mortality'.

I would ask Kaidomain to RMA and replace your light.

Kai has a convenient product return address in this country so at least you won't have to send it back to China [the U.S. address is in MIAMI FL, the full address is on their we site, but like any company, you need to get an RMA authorization first, so hopfully Kaidomain tech support will respond fairly soon].
For future reference, please also note that these Kai lights use fairly standard "Elly" style hardware and electornics, so if you are handy with a soldering iron and are worried about future problems, you can get a spare driver from DX for $3.50 (assuming that the head of your light is not too heavly potted with epoxy so you can get inside).

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7302

My Kaidomain light is not epoxied, so I ordered one of the DX version drivers, because I noticed that the DX version specs a lower low mode than the one I am seeing on my light now (The DX version lists 100%, 35%, and 10% where I seem to be seeing something like 100%, 75% and 35% on my Kaidomain 5 mode light).

This may or may not work out because DX is a little spotty on tech info sometimes so it remains to be seen if the driver will actually have a lower low power mode or not (because it seems to be the same exact module used in the Kaidomain light), but the PWM ratios are set in software on the little PIC12F629 cpu on the board, and the manufacture (Nanjig) could have quite easily responded to the numerous complaints about the low not being low enough and changed the programming in the little CPU on this version.

Good luck, and I hope Kaidomain fixes this up for you as quickly as possible.

P.S.
By listing the driver, I am not implying that you should be stuck replacing it yourself, because Kaidomain should fix this up for you at this point, but for future reference, I wanted you to be aware that spare parts like drivers, lenses etc are readily and inexpensively available for these "Elly" style Kaidomain lights.

By the way, don't every try a 10440 style lithium cell (3.6 volts) in this light because it will fry immediately (the 1.5 volt Energizer E1 style lithium's are fine, if you can afford them).

Hi Luminescent,

I just received an email from "Dora" stating that they want me to ship the light back to Hong Kong! I will reply with your info about the Miami address and see what they say.

I don't think it would be worth returning the light to Hong Kong. The postage is probably pretty high. I will check that too.

Thanks again,
Robin

Edit: I just checked with USPS and they want $3.60 for first class mail with NO tracking, NO insurance, NO proof of delivery. They want $23.40 for Priority Mail insured. Which is the ONLY way I could send it with insurance via USPS. This is ridiculous. I either have to gamble that it gets there and risk losing the light and postage = $18.60 or invest $23.00 for return/insured. NO way. This is why it's so important to find good quality and good support the first time around. I'm still waiting for Kaidomain to reply to my email requesting a Miami address and advising them of the prohibitive cost of returning the flashlight.

 

[meuge]

Just received it yesterday, for $15 its a steal, bar none. I like it better than my Fenix L2D-CE.

... in what universe?

 

[robo21]

... in what universe?

Obviously, after the problems I've had with the light and the lousy support from KD, I agree!

 

[meuge]

Obviously, after the problems I've had with the light and the lousy support from KD, I agree!

In my limited experience, the only inexpensive high-power AA LED lights that have acceptable workmanship are from MTE. I have a number of these lights, with both SSC and Rebel LEDs, and they feel solid and are all going strong. I have 2 KD lights, one of which is nonfunctional, the other has been relegated to laboratory duties.

 

[robo21]

In my limited experience, the only inexpensive high-power AA LED lights that have acceptable workmanship are from MTE. I have a number of these lights, with both SSC and Rebel LEDs, and they feel solid and are all going strong. I have 2 KD lights, one of which is nonfunctional, the other has been relegated to laboratory duties.

I'm not familiar with MTE. Do you have a link? After this experience, I am very reluctant to deal with Kaidomain. I have never received any reply from their support department. Only a request from Dora (sales) to ship the light back to Hong Kong. For a $15 light this isn't cost effective and furthermore, I don't feel I should have to pay return shipping on a defective light that quit almost immediately after arrival.

 

[meuge]

I'm not familiar with MTE. Do you have a link? After this experience, I am very reluctant to deal with Kaidomain. I have never received any reply from their support department. Only a request from Dora (sales) to ship the light back to Hong Kong. For a $15 light this isn't cost effective and furthermore, I don't feel I should have to pay return shipping on a defective light that quit almost immediately after arrival.

http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.mte

I own a couple of the 1-mode 1xAA SSC P4 lights, as well as a 5-mode Rebel100 1xAA one, and they are all pretty solidly built.

I prefer the 1-mode, simply because the 5-mode doesn't have a real low mode, and it's terribly inefficient at lower brightness levels, so there really is no good runtime gain. The regulation on these lights doesn't even come close to the quality of the Fenix circuitry, but at less than 1/2 the price, one really can't complain.

Mostly, whenever I shop at KD or DX, I just assume I am taking the risk.

 

[aussiebuddha]

Hi a couple of days ago I received my $15 cree light from Kai.
In the beginning i was kinda annoyed because the thread felt bad and i kept having problems with switching it on/off and changing modes for some reason.

I disassembled the light and found the screws that hold the Star were too small, so i removed them in hope to find some bigger ones to use.

Also, besides the + red and - black cables from the driver to the star there was also a grey one soldered to one of the screws.

I desoldered and tried the light and it worked fine.

So i ended up desoldering the grey cable from the driver and removing iot completely.

I also lubed the threads with vaseline, and now its a different light.

Anyone knows what this grey cable was for?
Is there any harm in removing it?

My light seems to work perfect now and it feels like a light twice the price.

 

[wai king]

Robo 21,

You don't have to pay for the shipping, usually they will give you credit for it. Either at DX or Kai. I have shop there before and that's what they did.

 

[aussiebuddha]

UPDATE: i got excited about fixing it too soon.
The light is still having flickering problems and does not turn on to full power.
I think the driver is buggered. sent kai an email let's see what they say.

 

[selfbuilt]

Anyone knows what this grey cable was for?
Is there any harm in removing it?

Try re-attaching to the wire to the screw, but with a metal grommet for better contact than solder.

The wire is likely used for grounding the driver to the frame. The earlier versions of this light body style with lux clones used an extension of the -'ve wire to wrap around the screw threads of one of the screws holding the star down (which was serviceable, if inelegant, for making contact with the frame). Later versions had a third bare metal wire doing much the same thing. The first cree versions use a bit a solder to hold the third wire against the heatsink frame near the star (which was ridiculous and rarely worked well). I see they still haven't invested in the $0.02 part that would resolve this problem ...

 

[nanotech17]

i sent mine back to Kai because to me this latest version with Q2 is not as powerful as the previous with the P4 - the P4 after tweaking i got max 810mA at the tailcap but this latest version with Q2 after tweaking i got only 520mA at the tailcap and yes it's dim.Not as bright as the P4 version.Either the driver is lemon or something else.

 

[Luminescent]

UPDATE: i got excited about fixing it too soon.
The light is still having flickering problems and does not turn on to full power.
I think the driver is buggered. sent kai an email let's see what they say.

The third wire is needed to give a solid ground to the frame, without that there is a ring around the driver board that might work but will give the intermittent flickering you are seeing when the contact gets a little oxidized.

The idea of soldering the wire to the screw is that since you can't solder to aluminum directly, you solder to a screw that can bite into the frame and get a 'gas tight' metal to metal ground that will not get flaky, but this is made troublesome in the lights I have seen by the fact that the small self-tapping screws are too damn small to get the kind of bite that you would like.

These 'Elly' style lights have been sold by both DX and Kai, and regardless of where you get them, there seem to be a number of common problems:

1. Bad grounds. This is the one they were trying to fix with the wire soldered to the screw, but loose screws will often make the ground flaky again anyway.

2. Shorts between the back of the aluminum reflector, and the top of the CREE LED emitter, to prevent these shorts Kai uses a small piece of silvery plastic, but if you torque down the head enough you can punch through the plastic and get a short to one side or the other of the emitter chip anyway:

- a short to the positive side of the CREE will kill the output and likely destroy the driver,

- a short to the negative side of the CREE forces the light into the high mode and eliminates all program modes.

3. Problems due to crappy soldering causing opens when wires pop off, or melting the cheap thermoplastic wire insulation on another wire and causing shorts.

With a little higher quality fit on the screws and better wire and workmanship, this would be a pretty solid light.

Mine works very well now that I have straightened out everything, and I am quite happy with the high output, and nice white tint on the CREE that I received (tint seems to vary from unit to unit though, so your mileage may vary).

 

[robo21]

Robo 21,

You don't have to pay for the shipping, usually they will give you credit for it. Either at DX or Kai. I have shop there before and that's what they did.

Thanks, I emailed them and they did confirm that. They also gave me the option of buying something else and then sending me a new light without returning the defective light. So I ordered a CREE Q2 2 mode light which my buddy has and really likes.

 

[robo21]

http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.mte

I own a couple of the 1-mode 1xAA SSC P4 lights, as well as a 5-mode Rebel100 1xAA one, and they are all pretty solidly built.

I prefer the 1-mode, simply because the 5-mode doesn't have a real low mode, and it's terribly inefficient at lower brightness levels, so there really is no good runtime gain. The regulation on these lights doesn't even come close to the quality of the Fenix circuitry, but at less than 1/2 the price, one really can't complain.

Mostly, whenever I shop at KD or DX, I just assume I am taking the risk.

I just received my MTE 5-Mode 100 Lumens Rebel Flashlight - SKU #6162. You are correct, the build quality seems much nicer than the Kai CREE. However, I'm very disappointed in the output. It is not nearly as bright as the Kai CREE and the beam is greenish and contains artifacts in the hotspot. :sigh: This is no doubt due to the smooth reflector.

I've tried both Duracell Alkalines and NiMH AA's in this light but the output seems about the same. If the output was at least equal to the Kai CREE on high I'd be happy.

It could be the light is defective or it could be that I'm spoiled by my other torches. The Ultrafire EMR1 from Supertactical really impressed me with the build quality and the performance. I guess trying to find an AA torch that performs, is reliable and has a quality feel is out of the question.