Bad switch on DX-X1
- Thread starter bp044
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ackbar
Enlightened
I replied to your inquiry in the DX review thread.
If it is indeed the switch, you may request one from DX (it is a cheap part that i'm sure they will send to you free of charge. otherwise i'm certain you can find a switch on the DIY section that will work with it.
If it is indeed the switch, you may request one from DX (it is a cheap part that i'm sure they will send to you free of charge. otherwise i'm certain you can find a switch on the DIY section that will work with it.
Using a needlenose pliers I unscrewed the brass part out , back in and various
other positions between. The switch still wont turn the light on
kosPap
Flashlight Enthusiast
well we do need the sku and a pic of the dissaembled switch...
Then we could walk you through a switch replacement only (yourself or a friend with a soldering iron)
See:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207613
Then we could walk you through a switch replacement only (yourself or a friend with a soldering iron)
See:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207613
Many thanks to those coming to my rescue. I now believe the problem is not with the switch but with the electronics in the front piece that contains The Led. I can take digital pictures and download to my computer but do not know how to get them into apost as I have never done this.
matrixshaman
Flashlight Enthusiast
You'll need to upload pics to any of the pic hosting services like imageshack.com - free to use. Once uploaded it will give you a forum code for the pic which you simply insert in a reply.
When I use paperclip from negative terminal of battery to body of light it works, so after all that I assume it is the switch. Thanks for for photo host info. Whats next ?
BlazerBud
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2008
- Messages
- 28
I have some of these. Same problem, The switch is poorly grounded to the tail cap. The switch is fine, it just isn't contacting the flash light body correctly, I am planning on soldering some more meat to the tabs on the switch and then threading it all back together.
I don't have that particular light. Like I said, your next step is to test continuity from the negative terminal to whichever part contacts your battery tube.
You could have a bad switch. Or, your switch could be fine, and it just isn't making contact to (brass?) ring which in turn has to touch the non-annodized end of the battery tube. If so, you need to take an appropriate instrument to un-screw the switch housing (needle nose, snap ring pliers, pointy tweezers, etc) and see if the switch contact is making good connection.
Or, your battery could just be too long, make sure it isn't sticking past the battery tube and stopping the tailcap from screwing on all the way. Sometimes you need to loosen the head some to gain length. But, that works best on bodies that can carry the current through the threads. That model appears to be annodized at both ends.
If you don't have a meter, I would suggest picking up a cheapy. But, you could rig together a test light with a lamp, some wire, and a couple batteries.
The point of the exercise is to find out where the break in your circuit is exactly.
You could have a bad switch. Or, your switch could be fine, and it just isn't making contact to (brass?) ring which in turn has to touch the non-annodized end of the battery tube. If so, you need to take an appropriate instrument to un-screw the switch housing (needle nose, snap ring pliers, pointy tweezers, etc) and see if the switch contact is making good connection.
Or, your battery could just be too long, make sure it isn't sticking past the battery tube and stopping the tailcap from screwing on all the way. Sometimes you need to loosen the head some to gain length. But, that works best on bodies that can carry the current through the threads. That model appears to be annodized at both ends.
If you don't have a meter, I would suggest picking up a cheapy. But, you could rig together a test light with a lamp, some wire, and a couple batteries.
The point of the exercise is to find out where the break in your circuit is exactly.
kosPap
Flashlight Enthusiast
from what i can understand from that photo you may have a problem that I encountered with several MTE C2s
Let me dscribed it...the scrw on retaining ring was glued. And it made contact with the switch board underside closing the circuit with the flashlight body (acted like a bridge)
...that meant that if the batteries excerted too much pressure the swicth&board would push on the rubber tailcap, soem room would be created and contact would be lost...
In that case removing the ring partly solves the problem...adding a slder ring on the board circular contact helps too...
Let me dscribed it...the scrw on retaining ring was glued. And it made contact with the switch board underside closing the circuit with the flashlight body (acted like a bridge)
...that meant that if the batteries excerted too much pressure the swicth&board would push on the rubber tailcap, soem room would be created and contact would be lost...
In that case removing the ring partly solves the problem...adding a slder ring on the board circular contact helps too...
I assume you mean the white plastic part which has a small metal tab on the side and one on the top ?
I can put a blob of solder on each of them if that is what you are refering to. Is there a risk of melting the plastic part itself when soldering the tabs ?
