Battery Testing Methods

NightBandit

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
16
Location
Minneapolis, MN
I have searched high and low, but I'm having troubles finding the proper way to test the capacities of my batteries. The more I read, the more confused I get.

Right now I have a simple DMM, is this enough equipment or should I upgrade to something more high tech? I've read that I should test my batteries under load and I've read that I should NOT test them under load. If I should be testing them under load, how do I best accomplish this? Is voltage the most important factor or do I want mAh readings (and how do I get mAh readings)?

Basically, what are the basics on testing batteries that everyone assumes that everyone else knows (but I don't)?

Sorry for the simple question that probably requires a complex answer, but I'm very new to this hobby and need to start with the basics.

Thank you,

NightBandit
 
hmmm i had jus bought a S$ 5 multimeter, it works fine :> the best are actually brand : Fluke, which is very expensive as its damned accuary

if u wish to test under load, there is a item from the RC hobby side :
"Watts Up" Watt Meter and Power Analyzer

as for the pro modders here, they are using the trition charger {http://www.towerhobbies.com/products/greatplanes/gpmm3150.html}
or schulze charger {http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.de/isl6-e.htm}to charge and discharge the batteries , give the users details of the batteries

actually voltage will tell u that either u have a full battery or not and the Amps will tell u how much more juice u can use ?

sorrie if i confused u :)
 
I don't have much experience testing batteries with many tools but I've followed SilverFox's advice and have been using the mini ZTS for several months now. It has never lied to me as I've tested some used batteries remaining capacity in the flashlights and found them to be accurate. I guarantee you someone might step into this thread saying things against the ZTS but my personal experience is good.
 
You could use a resistor and a DMM to do what the ZTS does, but the ZTS might be able to tell you more than you just looking at a number.
 
Another vote for ZTS. I've got the brand new big one - MBT-1 and love it. I'll eventually pick up one the smaller ones to carry.

Bottom line is that just a voltage reading from a DMM is worthless for testing your batteries w/o some type of load applied. Someone recently argued against that statement and turns out that they were using a high drain incan light as their "load."

Take a reading with a DMM, put the cell(s) in a light and run them, take them out and take a reading again. You can do that and get a ball park feel for the condition of your cells (not to mention the drain on the cells), or you can use the ZTS that is likely to give you more accurate results as well as much less drain on your cells and is much faster to use.
 
Hello NightBandit, welcome to CPF.

Is it remaining capacity of the cell, what kind of cell, Nimh, Li-ion, Li-poly, Lead acid, Ni-cd?

A regular DMM would be fine if you are interested of remaining capacity in % if measuring Li-ion, Li-poly, not with regular Liion and Ni-MH and Ni-cd without some load.

A ZTS-tester or Ansmann "Digital Check" (not sold in US) if you want to find out remaining kapacity in Ni-mh Ni-cd regular CR123, buttom cells, the new ZTS tester also can handle Li-ion cells as 17670, 18650, RCR123 cells.

If you want to find out if your cells have 2500 mAh, you could buy a CBAII from :
www.Westmountainradio.com

Two chargers that could handle AA and AAA sizes cells also have the ability to test them:
La Crosse BC-9000 and MAHA C-9000

Anders
 
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I have a DMM, where and exactly what do I need to test cells with under load? Thanks!!
 
Well from the old school - or at least old :D - I've been using a regular meter whether digital or analog for over 40 years to test my batteries and I say it still gives a fair idea of their condition just based on the open voltage reading. I've only had this not work ONE time. That one time the voltage appeared around 1.6 volts on a Lithium AA and it was half dead. A ZTS battery tester is a good way to go if you really have to make 100% sure what's good and what's not but 99.999% of the time a voltmeter even without a load seems to work fine for me. Maybe it's that I've gotten a good feel for what is good and what's not based on fine differences in voltages I read on them. I'm sure a lot of people here are going to disagree with that and that's okay. I've just found that with most batteries if they read at or above the rated voltage then they are going to work fine for a while at least.
 
Nightbandit:

What are you testing? Primary or secondary cells? (industry jargon for disposable or rechargeable)

You really cannot gage battery condition with an open-circuit voltage check with a DMM. A possible exception to that MIGHT be alkaline; their voltage sags as they are depleted and I don't believe it recovers all that much when the load is removed.

The best way to test a battery is to put it under some kind of load and check to see how much the voltage sags versus the open-circuit measurement. The fresher the cell, the smaller the sag. Exact numbers are dependent on the type of cell and the size of the load you place on it.

You will get recommendations for a ZTS tester. I have a ZTS Mini and I like it quite a bit. It does exactly what I just described. It puts a load on the cell and watches the change in voltage, then it interprets the results (based on an algorithm programmed by the ZTS folks) and delivers you an approximation of the battery condition in 20% increments. Because there are so many variables and assumptions built into that algorithm it would be hard to give results with finer resolution, and to ZTS's credit they avoid going there.

Where the ZTS is nondestructive (it takes only a tiny fraction of the battery capacity to make its measurement) you can get a much, much better picture of a rechargeable cell by fully depleting it and graphically depicting the results. The popular tool for this is the West Mountain Radio CBA (Computerized Battery Analyzer). It requires connection to a PC with a free USB port.
 
For load a LF bulb for a specific voltage or a resistor could provide a good load for testing, I would test under the same load you are putting your cells through at a close temp.
 
Simplest method.

Stick it in a torch !!

Compare with other batteries.
 
If you are looking for the storage capacity of your cells you could go with a charger like the C9000 from Maha, or the Lacrosse BC-900. This shows the storage capacity of your cells, not what is currently in the cell.

The nice thing is that these not only give you capacity but work as a nice charger as well. :grin2:
 
Thank you to everyone for your suggestions. But as is par for the course (for me), not only do I now know more, but I now realize that I actually know less (of everything that there is to know).

From what I'm hearing, maybe I want either a good battery charger (the Triton, Schulze, Maha or Lacrosse) or a good battery tester (ZTS). The Triton and Schulze look great, but it's more than I want to spend. With the Maha and Lacrosse, it looks like I'm limited to AA and AAA cells (my lights currently use AAA, AA, CR123 and D cells (plus hopefully more in the future). The ZTS looks promising (if a little costly), but I have a question about accuracy. Obviously this works great for many people, but registering in 20% increments leaves some gray spots. There is a big difference between 81% and 103% (which I would assume both register at 100%) or between 61% and 80% (which I would assume both register at 80%). And also, does the ZTS make its readings based just on Voltage, just on amp hours (mAh) or on some combination of both?

With my DMM, I believe (and I may be wrong here), that it will work on any cell size. My DMM will measure voltage, but it won't measure mAh (at least not that I can figure out). It sounds like ideally I want to test my cells under load (a small load). kitelights suggested that I could take a reading on my cell, put it in my light and run it, pull it out and take another reading. This sounds relatively simple to me, but for how long do I need to run the cell(s) in my light (and I do realize that my cell(s) will lose power as I run them this way)? Is there some way to make a simple home set up that uses resistors (or something)?

All that being said, this is not meant to be an exact science for me. I'm not testing batteries for reviews, I just want to know when it's time to charge my batteries (and how full of a charge I'm getting) and for my non-rechargeables, how close to empty they are so I know when to carry spares. Maybe I should just let my light's performance tell me when to change batteries, but keeping track of cell levels seems like half the fun.

Thanks for all your help and insight,

NightBandit
 
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NightBandit said:
...From what I'm hearing, maybe I want either a good battery charger (the Triton, Schulze, Maha or Lacrosse) or a good battery tester (ZTS)...

Or, a good battery discharge unit like the West Mountain Radio CBA if you're talking about secondary (rechargeable) cells.

... The Triton and Schulze look great, but it's more than I want to spend. With the Maha and Lacrosse, it looks like I'm limited to AA and AAA cells (my lights currently use AAA, AA, CR123 and D cells (plus hopefully more in the future)...

So, are you using or planning to use rechargeable versions of CR123 and D cells? If not, and you've got a mix of primary and secondary cells you want to test, forget the charger-based solution and the WMRCBA, and go straight to ZTS.

...The ZTS looks promising (if a little costly), but I have a question about accuracy. Obviously this works great for many people, but registering in 20% increments leaves some gray spots. There is a big difference between 81% and 103% (which I would assume both register at 100%) or between 61% and 80% (which I would assume both register at 80%). And also, does the ZTS make its readings based just on Voltage, just on amp hours (mAh) or on some combination of both?

The ZTS Mini will test all of the cells you've mentioned so far and it cost $29.95 last time I looked. In theory, you are right about the "gray spots" in the test results. In practice, you need to think about what you plan to do with the results. Generally, you are trying to anticipate your future need for a particular flashlight and decide if the exisiting partially-depleted cells are going to last, or if they need to be changed/charged... aren't you? For this purpose, I find the ZTS percentage readout is more than sufficient. If you have a more exacting purpose in mind, maybe you could explain it to us.

With my DMM, I believe (and I may be wrong here), that it will work on any cell size. My DMM will measure voltage, but it won't measure mAh (at least not that I can figure out).

Of course, your DMM is going to provide a voltage reading on any size cell under the sun. You are not wrong about that. And NO, it cannot measure mAh capacity. You are right again. The only way to really measure capacity is to completely drain the cell while measuring how much time and how much current is required to do that. That will give you milliamps and hours... mAh, ta-da. (This is exactly what the WMRCBA does). But fully draining a cell, if it is not rechargeable, is obviously an exercise in futility. So people like ZTS have done extensive testing to learn how a cell reacts to a brief load that does NOT drain the cell significantly, and correlated this reaction to the percent of remaining capacity. They build this into the algorithm of the tester. You can do it yourself, but you'll be playing with your flashlights and DMM for a long time before you can even hope to accurately approach the 20% resolution provided by the ZTS. (OK maybe it's your goal to play with your flashlights, this is CPF after all.)

It sounds like ideally I want to test my cells under load (a small load). kitelights suggested that I could take a reading on my cell, put it in my light and run it, pull it out and take another reading. This sounds relatively simple to me, but for how long do I need to run the cell(s) in my light (and I do realize that my cell(s) will lose power as I run them this way)? Is there some way to make a simple home set up that uses resistors (or something)?

There is no single correct answer to any of those questions. There are a number of problems with the above - for one thing, you will quickly learn that as soon as you remove the load from a battery, it starts to "recover". The voltage begins to inch its way back up. It's not actually healing itself although it appears to be. It throws a monkey-wrench into the idea of testing, running, and retesting. You would have to be super-consistent in the amount of time it takes to make your second reading after shutting off the light, or you're just wasting your time.

All that being said, this is not meant to be an exact science for me. I'm not testing batteries for reviews, I just want to when it's time to charge my batteries (and how full of a charge I'm getting) and for my non-rechargeables, how close to empty they are so I know when to carry spares. Maybe I should just let my light's performance tell me when to change batteries, but keeping track of cell levels seems like half the fun.

OK, there you go. It's not an exact science. (Is there an echo in here?) For the purposes you just described, you need a ZTS, end of story. And no, I don't work for them.
 
A ZTS reading of 61% will not show up as 80%. You do three tests in each battery several seconds apart, and if you have some readings at 60% and others at 80% you can call it 70% as an expert does here in the forum. It is as exact as can be for all practical purposes.
 
You do three tests in each battery several seconds apart, and if you have some readings at 60% and others at 80% you can call it 70%
Or you can call it 40% or 90%, all is good. What is important is that you can have hours of fun "testing" your batteries.
 
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