Beam shots question

m16a

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
940
Location
Being a patriot in the fine state of PA
Not sure if this is the place to put this or not, so if it isn't mods, this isn't a malicious attempt at spam its just a mistake. Anyways, I was wondering, what is the best ISO setting, shutter speed, and aperture setting to use in beam shots, one that mimics the eye best and gives the most accurate representation? Thanks for the help, and once done I will test it and post some for people! Thanks a lot,

M16a
 
Last edited:
You know, I was considering doing some experiments myself in that regard. Its going to vary quite a bit depending on what lights you're testing, the camera and the ambient conditions.

Personally, I prefer to use the minimum ISO (100 on my camera) with a fully open aperture (lowest "f" setting) when taking any pictures at night with my digital camera - this minimizes grain and the ugly chroma noise (from high ISO). For a starting shutter speed, I used manual mode (with the settings above) and adjusted the shutter for what the camera recommended from its metering (full frame metering) on the brightest light I planned to shoot. I then shot both lights and lengthened the shutter a bit to improve exposure for the dimmer light (this will vary of course depending on the comparison, still was loosing a lot of the subtle spill). If you have an "aperture priority" mode, you can also use that to fix the aperture then note what shutter speed the camera decides to use. So, there is some trial and error to it - just shoot for a close approximation to what your eyes see. Its likely that increasing the ISO would help a bit to capture the subtle spill of some lights (and more closely approximate human vision which has far better dynamic range than your average digital camera), so you may want to try that as well depending on your results. I still feel that a low ISO and open aperture is a good starting point. With very bright lights, and depending on the camera, sometimes the aperture will have to be closed a bit to limit internal reflections from the lens (I've had this problem when shooting the moon with my Sony DSC-V3 with telephoto attachment, had to use my smallest aperture in that case - f8), but in most cases you should be fine with a wide aperture.

Guess its not really the answer you're looking for, but one that in my experience is accurate.
 
Last edited:
I agree with the above poster about setting the camera to the lowest ISO and going from there.

Manual setting gives you more control and consistency when attempting to capture a light's beam characteristics. I don't think there is the right shutter/aperture combination.
A tripod is a must and a cable release or the use of the self timer is a good idea to minimize camera shake.

You can also try to bracket your exposures. This is where one or more shots are taken below and above the recommended meter reading. Auto bracketing function found on some cameras is helpful for this.

Since the human eye perceives a lot more levels of brightness than digital can capture, the final shots will never look as you see it, however, with careful attention and patience, overall impression of the throw and spill can be well represented.

Including a known object in your shot such as a tree or other known objects sets a good point of reference.

And of course outdoor shots with other lights to compare it to is the "real world" representation of the lights in action.

Shots on a wall or the "white wall" hunting can demonstrate overall beam shape and pattern when compared to other lights. Both are useful together, but if I were to pick one over the other, the outdoor ones wins hands down.

Beamshots take time and effort. Have fun doing them. We all enjoy them. Reading about a light is nice, but seeing them in action is most excellent.
 
Last edited:
Exposure bracketing is a good idea EV007, I forgot about that. For those cameras with this feature, I would say a +/-0.7EV step might be a good starting point here.

I think (at least for my camera) it sometimes doesn't work very well in very low light situations, but its worth a try.
 

Latest posts

Top