BEAMSHOTS ADDED How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D BEAMSHOTS ADDED

[vestureofblood]

Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D

The charger I use the most is my 7.2v 1A charger that came with the KD 2x32500 D cell pack. I also have some cheap ones I use for my 18650s but none of them are a "smart" so right now all my cells are protected.

I thought I should look into some new cells because I My AW cells flash the bulb on my M*g 61 on a full charge, and I dont have a 100$ to buy a soft start. Mostly theese cells interest me bucause I just orderd some Osram 62475 (the 6v 35 watt) bulbs and Im not sure my AW Cs will do the job.

 

[TKO]

Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D

The charger I use the most is my 7.2v 1A charger that came with the KD 2x32500 D cell pack. I also have some cheap ones I use for my 18650s but none of them are a "smart" so right now all my cells are protected.

I thought I should look into some new cells because I My AW cells flash the bulb on my M*g 61 on a full charge, and I dont have a 100$ to buy a soft start. Mostly theese cells interest me bucause I just orderd some Osram 62475 (the 6v 35 watt) bulbs and Im not sure my AW Cs will do the job.

If I remember correctly, AW recommends that you not exceed a 5 amp draw from his C cells. (Someone please correct me if this is wrong) If this is the case, you would probably be pushing them pretty hard with a 6v 35 watt bulb. A123's and Emoli, on the other hand, will handle the amp load of any bulb that you would try to put in a light.

Emoli would probably be a better option for you . . . they will handle big amp loads, still have a decent discharge curve and don't require a special charger like A123's do (3.6 volt termination).

 

[bgiddins]

Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D

Would a mod like this be possible for a 4D maglight? Found one the other day while cleaning out moving boxes - was going to through a plain LED upgrade module in it, then I discovered this thread

 

[TKO]

Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D

Would a mod like this be possible for a 4D maglight? Found one the other day while cleaning out moving boxes - was going to through a plain LED upgrade module in it, then I discovered this thread

It would most certainly work!

Four A123's would actually fit a 4D with quite well with the tailcap modification.

Then pick a bulb from here

Take a look at the following:thumbsup:: 62138, 64623, 64610, 64625

The schedule 40 PVC pipe would have to be cut to the correct length, but that's about it as far as changes go.

Good Luck and let me know how you make out.

 

[Flipside]

Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D

Lots of power...use wisely. :devil:

Indeed... These 'little' cells will do 120A in a burst mode... That'll start your car. Easily.

 

[TKO]

Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D

Indeed... These 'little' cells will do 120A in a burst mode... That'll start your car. Easily.

When I started this mod I first tried shortening the existing tailspring, I was excited about the prospect of 7000+ lumens and began playing around with the cells without the shrink wrap or cover and I managed to short things out. I heard a nasty crackling noise and quickly unscrewed the couple of threads I had just managed to engage. The tailspring was so hot I had to drop it. I am quite sure it would have been glowing in no time.

That little incident prompted me to go with the tailcap mod pictured, as the contact patch will always remain centered with no chance of shifting and to quit all testing until those cells were shrink wrapped.

They are powerful indeed.

 

[Burgess]

Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D

Wow, that's awesome !


_

 

[TKO]

Beamshots added in original post.

 

[HarryN]

That is a nice and easy mod - thanks for posting it.

I will admit that I am not entirely comfortable that people routinely put cells inside of plastic and paper tubes, then draw hard on them. By nature, cells get warm when charging and discharging - it seems like their should be a thermal path for some of that heat to get away from the cells.

At the risk of added mass, perhaps consider wrapping the cells in shrink wrap, then mounting them inside of an Al tube instead of a plastic one.

 

[TKO]

That is a nice and easy mod - thanks for posting it.

I will admit that I am not entirely comfortable that people routinely put cells inside of plastic and paper tubes, then draw hard on them. By nature, cells get warm when charging and discharging - it seems like their should be a thermal path for some of that heat to get away from the cells.

At the risk of added mass, perhaps consider wrapping the cells in shrink wrap, then mounting them inside of an Al tube instead of a plastic one.

HarryN,

Thanks!

I charge the A123's (individually for now) at 5 amps and they do not feel warm when I disconnect them from the BC6. I have, however, felt quite a bit of warmth with NiMH and LiIon. A123's have an operational range of -30C to +60C.

I just ran the light on high (11.7 amp draw) for 2 minutes and removed the rearmost cell and it did not seem noticeably warm. Maybe someone with a thermistor and A123's can chime in here with an actual measurement as my hands are out of calibration.

Lux measured 198 degrees F 8mm below the bulb envelope when 16.5 volts was applied, so the head of the light definitely gets hot and some of this this heat, of course, eventually migrates down the body of the light. Due to the construction of the switch almost all of the heatsinking would be found between the flashlight body and the cells, so I feel that the PVC actually insulates the cells from heat from the body, which is far hotter than the heat in the cells.

 

[N10]

i was just wandering...about the runtimes you posted..the soft start AW switch isn't regulated from what i've read about it...are your runtimes kind of "regulated"..or as they usually say it here.."flat"?..very nice light though..!

 

[TKO]

i was just wandering...about the runtimes you posted..the soft start AW switch isn't regulated from what i've read about it...are your runtimes kind of "regulated"..or as they usually say it here.."flat"?..very nice light though..!

You are right that AW's switch is not regulated. Runtimes are approximate.

The light behaves in a "regulated fashion" in that it runs with the same apparent output (with no discernible dimming) because of the LiFeO4 flat discharge curve they hold their voltage with very little "sag" until they are spent and then output drops off indicating time to charge. No gradual dimming.

 

[TorchBoy]

Okay, here are some comparison beamshots taken at 7ft:

Cocoa colored wall
...
The Sleeper at 7000 + Lumens (white thermostat disappears:thumbsup

Ah, that's the kitchen in there. It was a bit too dim in the other pics. :twothumbs

I would imagine that because of their very low internal resistance they wouldn't get very warm even at high currents.

 

[lctorana]

What did the wife say about the huge burn mark you left on the wall?

 

[Raoul_Duke]

I love the simplicity of this mod.

Just went into the "plant Room" at work and found some PCV pipe....might have to speak to my manager about him making a small donation to the cause.

I like the idea that the PCV may isolate the cells from the heat of the body.

I may choose to run this in a 5D over the 7C as you may have a point there.

I guess the cell to check would be the one closest to the switch.

Not sure on the internal make up of the AW switch, but if it was a kiu switch the wires are directly connected and a direct heat path to the +ve on the front cell.
also heard of high resistance in the tailcap area at high current draws causing heat build up.

I didnt realise/ remember that the A123 cells were rated to 60 deg C

If the lamp has been measured a 95 deg C then with it being enclosed there may be more heat than we realised :thinking:

I doubt it makes that much difference, as 10~12A is not a big drain on these cells.....(having run 4 and 5 emoli in 6C 7C for some time and measuring cell temps ( by hand) they were warm but comfortable after a long run and HOT head) but it would be nice to know;
I think my cells were a little warmer after the light was turned off for a while, indicating that the close fit of the C body on the cells the cells were soaking up some of the heat not dissipated by the body.

Sorry to wander of topic but does anybody know Emoli 26700 temp ranges off the top of their heads?

Love this mod...Will have to build one just like it. :twothumbs

 

[TKO]

What did the wife say about the huge burn mark you left on the wall?

LOL

Wall? What wall, honey? Now we can see into the kitchen.

She is used to me running around lighting things up.

 

[TKO]

I love the simplicity of this mod.

Just went into the "plant Room" at work and found some PCV pipe....might have to speak to my manager about him making a small donation to the cause.

I like the idea that the PCV may isolate the cells from the heat of the body.

I may choose to run this in a 5D over the 7C as you may have a point there.

I guess the cell to check would be the one closest to the switch.

Not sure on the internal make up of the AW switch, but if it was a kiu switch the wires are directly connected and a direct heat path to the +ve on the front cell.
also heard of high resistance in the tailcap area at high current draws causing heat build up.

I didnt realise/ remember that the A123 cells were rated to 60 deg C

If the lamp has been measured a 95 deg C then with it being enclosed there may be more heat than we realised :thinking:

I doubt it makes that much difference, as 10~12A is not a big drain on these cells.....(having run 4 and 5 emoli in 6C 7C for some time and measuring cell temps ( by hand) they were warm but comfortable after a long run and HOT head) but it would be nice to know;
I think my cells were a little warmer after the light was turned off for a while, indicating that the close fit of the C body on the cells the cells were soaking up some of the heat not dissipated by the body.

Sorry to wander of topic but does anybody know Emoli 26700 temp ranges off the top of their heads?

Love this mod...Will have to build one just like it. :twothumbs

Raoul,

If this mod wasn't simple, I wouldn't have been able to come up with it.

I checked LuxLuthor's Most Powerful Maglite Mod List and found that The Sleeper would rank #4 and hold the distinction of being the most powerful mag bodied mod on the list (#1 through #3 are Elephant body based mods) at least until someone comes up with something brighter.

There is flexibility with the mod, also. I plan on popping in an Osram 64447 IRC 65 watt for twice the runtime and still over 3700 lumens and only 100 or so degrees F at the bulb.

I have not noticed any heat issues in the tailcap area. Even with protracted use on High with the 64633 (11.7 amp draw).

Here is a thread that talks about insulating the heat in the bezel and potentially away from the cells using this material. I am going to order some and try it, as the head of the light gets quite hot and I can see where this heatsinks into the body.

There is some temperature data on page two of this pdf file concerning Emoli 26700. I am not sure if it will answer your questions, but I hope that it is helpful.

If you should build a Sleeper, let me know and good luck!

 

[BVH]

Maybe a little expensive for just shrinkwrap, but the MEC Solderless Power Tubes come with what looks to be the exact same, ultra-thin wall shrink tubing you can install yourself. Works on the A123's and the Emoli's.

Search: Solderless Power Tubes

 

[Raoul_Duke]

Dude...I'd go easy on the fibra frax or whatever insulation you use.

I would think a bit ( a circle or ring) around the base of the Kiu lamp holder/ wires / posts..would help keep the IR & heat that spills back from the reflector at bay...but I wouldent wrap the reflector in it or go to nuts.

It does hold back the heat...but that heat has to go somewhere.

I have seen (photos of) reflectors that melted on High heat lamps, that were packed with ceramic insulation and we are in that temp range.

I've been running the 64633 enough now in a 15.6V ( starts of hot some where in the 16V~17V region on a hot pack) 2D pack to be satified that the 2" aluminium reflectors can take the heat from the lamp...but they do use the air space betwwen that and the head to move some of that heat away.

On my modded switch under the Kiu socket was packed with fiber frax, and a bit on top of he kiu could haver been added, but I swapped it ot with an AW for the 3 levels and never got round to it.

Runs well enough on low for extended periods.

Prehaps a bit between the cells and swich may help a bit...but then you still need a direct connection to the switch base...so unsure of the heat there.

I will do some testing when I get home in 2 weeks.

Raoul,

If this mod wasn't simple, I wouldn't have been able to come up with it.

I checked LuxLuthor's Most Powerful Maglite Mod List and found that The Sleeper would rank #4 and hold the distinction of being the most powerful mag bodied mod on the list (#1 through #3 are Elephant body based mods) at least until someone comes up with something brighter.

There is flexibility with the mod, also. I plan on popping in an Osram 64447 IRC 65 watt for twice the runtime and still over 3700 lumens and only 100 or so degrees F at the bulb.

I have not noticed any heat issues in the tailcap area. Even with protracted use on High with the 64633 (11.7 amp draw).

Here is a thread that talks about insulating the heat in the bezel and potentially away from the cells using this material. I am going to order some and try it, as the head of the light gets quite hot and I can see where this heatsinks into the body.

There is some temperature data on page two of this pdf file concerning Emoli 26700. I am not sure if it will answer your questions, but I hope that it is helpful.

If you should build a Sleeper, let me know and good luck!

 

[TKO]

Raoul,

Thanks for the tip. I appreciate the advice and will forgo the insulation.

It was more an experimentation thing, anyway, as I have not had a real issue with heat.