BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part XI)

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J_C

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Re: Heat from AKOray K-106 Q5 14500

Mines the DX version which is 5 mode, the flashing\SOS modes I probaby won't touch but it works nice (I like the memory). I tend to run my lights at full power at all times, which is why I'm asking - I was wiring some ethernet cables in my basement this evening by setting my light down on a desk pointing at my work; high works best for me, but it seemed awfully hot after sitting on a desk 5-6 minutes. I'm just wondering if I'll know when its overheating - will it melt down, go dimmer, or shut off?

It's overheating. IF you hold the light and your hand absorbs the heat, to the point where the head tube is cooler, that has a direct relationship to a corresponding reduction in temperature of the driver and LED.

I was concerned about this, it seems that the original 3 mode programmable K-106 is ok with 4.2V Li-Ion, but the other two are like many of DX's lights, they direct drive which is fine with a beefy enough driver and large light/pill, not so much with a little AA diameter light. It's possible with a little AA light but you move to purpose specific materials and overbuilt drivers, rasing the cost compared to all alumium pill, barely double sided boards with no vias on heatsinked pads.

Simple answer that will prolong the life of your batteries and your flashlight, don't charge them past 4.0V so the flashlight never direct drives at such a high voltage.

For the benefit of others if you would measure the battery current yours consumes on this high mode, we can add it to the collective knowledge about these new K-106 variants.

I should add, when I wrote it is overheating I am trying to be objective. Subjectively, given some people don't use their light for long periods and that LEDs get better every year, and that the light is so inexpensive, so long as it doesn't go:poof: at a critical moment, it could be useful to have it a bit brigher... but too many people feel it is a lottery, it may work one day and be gone the next if it feels that hot that quickly.

How you'll know depends on how hot it gets internally, and can change with random variations in quality control. Running that hot it tends to degrade the LED over time, including immediate reduction in efficiency so you end up using more battery current for little if any more light than if set at a little lower mode (especially since eyes adjust well to a few dozen % difference in output). Worst case is some people see a sudden failure, presumably repetitive overheating of the transistor delaminates the copper on the driver board and it overheats and/or the copper deforms and oxidizes away, opening the circuit.
 
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J_C

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As far as the tail, upon closer examination, the tail switch is rated for 1 Amp. Looking at similar switches from the same manufacturer, it is rated for 10,000 cycles. Soooo 14500 I guess it the way to go to prolong life. I'm pleasantly surprised how easy it is to disassemble everything without damage. Even tho the switch contacts are just press fitted, it doesn't seem like there's any way for them to fail aside from getting dirty, but we shouldn't be lubing this end of the light anyways.http://www.calonsw.com/en/pshow.asp?id=826

Oh there are ways. Given it's 1A rating, the contacts may heat up. Given it contacts bare aluminum which is subject to immediate oxidation, the contact resistance goes up, further heat. Further heat causes faster oxidation, a viscous circle.

Lights like these, I feel are most reliable if you strip them down every now and then. Do that and there is little difference in reliability, but if left like it came from the factory and never stripped/examined/etc, there may be problems down the road of not right away.

I wonder how much it would cost for an interior nickel plated process, on the switch cap and threads and/or tube ends depending on which is the primary electrical conduction path. Some use de-ox to slow down this process but wouldn't it be great if they shipped ready to go. I realize this would add to the cost but I have to think small cost increases targeted at the weak points could be a good value still, that we are exiting the era of exotic prices for what are becoming standard brightness LED flashlights.
 

sparkysko

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It is interesting that it is a free floating tail switch as opposed to threaded in. Battery pressure holds it in. I suppose it might be easy enough to make a DX switch with a spring already on it work, or forego the switch and just make it a twisty. As is, the anodizing is thick enough to lock out the light if you unscrew it a 1/4 turn.

On a different note regarding the K106, I'm only pulling 0.6 amps from the battery, whereas BessieBenny's review model pulled 1.2 amps. I just got a lux meter, and at 1 meter, I'm seeing 4,000 lux as the hottest spot, 3,000 being the normal reading of the 'hot' spot (With a worn 14500 at about 4 volts), whereas he was seeing 1900 freshly charged. I would expect to get 1,000 lux or lower.

Am I misunderstanding how lux readings are done? I did it in a room with ambient light of 4 lux. The lowest 'low' i could get was about 200 lux.
 
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sparkysko

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I have no idea how you guys are making the runtime/brightness charts, so I'll just give my data in text.

Using a Akoray 106 purchased Sept 1, 2009, I wanted to test the regulation on a 14500. I enabled the lights built in protection, and was also using a protected trustfire 14500. I checked on the lux readings every 5 minutes. The light output was constant, and did not change more than 1/10th of 1% during all of my readings. I got 50-55 minutes of fully regulated maximum brightness, and then a few minutes later, when I checked on it again, the light had turned itself off from the lights protection circuit, so this light has a very steep cutoff at the end. After waiting a few minutes, I measured the resting voltage of the 14500, and it was at 3.2 volts.

I kinda wish they'd set the low voltage cutoff higher, but I don't think this will be in the unsafe zone.
Edit: Actually, I didn't have the LVC enabled.
Edit edit: Behavior of lights LVC is to flash off and go into dim mode with li-ion. I accidentally turned the light on/off again and it appears that the battery LVC then kicked in. Unable to post numbers since I dirtied the test.
 
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phlowcus

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Unscrewing glued threads?

Hey guys, I am owning the MTE C3-907 (sku 26929) since some weeks and apart from it being a general disappointment (I might write a review later) it now started to flicker heavily. The problem is that the head is glued to the body. I tried to simply apply a lot of force but I cannot unscrew the head.
Any tipps please?
 

bessiebenny

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I have no idea how you guys are making the runtime/brightness charts, so I'll just give my data in text.

I guess others do it similar but her'es how I do ot.

I have a lightmeter that I got from DX and I actually soldered two more wires to the light sensor's output so that I can hook it up directly to the digital multimeter's positive and negative input for uA (micro-amps) reading. This way, I'm just using the light sensor's output directly without going through the actual light meter. My DMM has serial RS232 PC output so I can hook it up to a PC and use an app to take snapshots of the reading every minute.

p1000361x.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5594/p1000361x.jpg

Hey guys, I am owning the MTE C3-907 (sku 26929) since some weeks and apart from it being a general disappointment (I might write a review later) it now started to flicker heavily. The problem is that the head is glued to the body. I tried to simply apply a lot of force but I cannot unscrew the head.
Any tipps please?

Flickering is usually a contact issue. Make sure the switch module is all okay. You should use a multimeter to measure the resistence between points where the current should flow through to make up the circuit. For the head if it's glued, try to warm it up first (leave the light on for a while etc) then if possible, get a plumbing pipe grappler / rubber wrap (I got it for like $5 from a hardware store) to allow for strong grip when rotating. The glue should break and it should unscrew in most cases.
 

bessiebenny

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On a different note regarding the K106, I'm only pulling 0.6 amps from the battery, whereas BessieBenny's review model pulled 1.2 amps. I just got a lux meter, and at 1 meter, I'm seeing 4,000 lux as the hottest spot, 3,000 being the normal reading of the 'hot' spot (With a worn 14500 at about 4 volts), whereas he was seeing 1900 freshly charged. I would expect to get 1,000 lux or lower.

Am I misunderstanding how lux readings are done? I did it in a room with ambient light of 4 lux. The lowest 'low' i could get was about 200 lux.

I will try and remeasure as I did have some contact issues before.
Maybe the results might differ if I do it again. Will do by the weekend.

btw, I've posted new photos in my review here:
http://www.jayki.com/1032

Also, the K-106 is a bit weird that if you set it the custom mode to high with the 14500, then it seems brighter also when you change the battery then to a AA NiMh. But If you use AA NIMh to program the mode to high, it's not as bright. Well, that's the case with mine anyways. But seriously, every few months, these flashlights from these brands change the driver without any announcement. So samples over time may differ both in brightness and runtime etc.
 

sparkysko

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I am not an expert, but many glues lose their strength at 70C. PVC wire insulation melts at 75 or 80C. You could try boiling it, but risk hurting the wire insulation. Heat from a torch or lighter might work, as you could hopefully heat up the threads enough in a short time, but not enough to get heat inside the device melting the wires.

Depending on the adhesive used, acetone might work. If they used loctite or something similar on the threads, it is impervious to acetone and most chemicals however.

Careful not to destroy the temper on the aluminum.
 

sparkysko

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Thanks for the updated review. That's a *SIGNIFICANT* difference between 14500 and AA. With my new 16607, nimh cells are 80% as bright as 14500. You can't tell the difference. After using the light for 15 minutes or so it drops to about 65-70% of 14500 brightness and stays in that range until the light dies 2 hours later.

I had figured you use a datalogger. I'm just amazed that all of the runtime charts seem to look identical. I'm guessing it's the default chart format for Microsoft Excel or you guys are using a standardized sheet from some webpage. Open Office didn't have any similar looking charts, and I'd be embarrassed to post the charts I made.

On a different note, the lux meter I'm using is the el cheapo 40$ harbor freight 5 in 1 multimeter. When I turned it on, I believe I saw 'RS232' flash on the LCD sceen, although there isn't an external port visible, I wouldn't be surprised if they could be easily hacked for it. Unfortunately they automatically turn off after 30 minutes.
 
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bessiebenny

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Thanks for the updated review. That's a *SIGNIFICANT* difference between 14500 and AA. With my new 16607, nimh cells are 80% as bright as 14500. You can't tell the difference. After using the light for 15 minutes or so it drops to about 65-70% of 14500 brightness and stays in that range until the light dies 2 hours later.

Hmm. It'll be interesting to see how long yours will last with 14500.
Yeah. My sample definitely isn't that bright with AA NiMh as you can see.
But from what I've read of other people's posts, mine seem about right.
Hence many say that this light is better when used with a 14500.
Either they changed the driver significantly or one of ours is not right.
 

sparkysko

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Hmm. It'll be interesting to see how long yours will last with 14500.

Between 50-55 minutes with Trustfire 14500 @ 600mA starting current
2 hours with 2100 mAh NIMh (rayovac 4.0) @ ~1.2 A starting current (1.5A with Hybrio NIMH)

I just rechecked the brightness in a more controlled setting, at an arbritrary distance I got:

2600 lux: 14500
1350 lux: NIMH Hybrio
1100 lux: NIMH Rayovac 4.0

I rechecked several times, including programming the light for max mode with nimh and 14500 inserted and got similar ratio of brightness.

I take back what I said, until today we had originally done testing in a less scientific fashion, two people standing still trying to get max lux readings waving the meter and flashlight around. Today I made the meter and light stationary so that I could get reproducible results.
 
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bessiebenny

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Ahh. Thanks for those test results. Sounds quite similar to mine now it seems.

I've ordered some new protected 14500's so once received, I'll do the runtime test with it and update the review with the runtime chart. (I only have non-protected 14500 atm)
 

Ozem61

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I noticed in the SKU 16607 Akoray 106 that Trustfire protected 14500's rub a small bit when inserting them (Rub on the strap that goes to the protection circuit). Over time I'm concerned this will eat through the heatshrink and short out the battery.

Anyone using any other 14500's that slide into the light easier? I can't bring myself to use unprotected cells in my pocket.

Check out the comment by mattjs on the http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19626 page. This cell is slightly thicker than the similarly coloured and labeled item at http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3435.

I found this while doing a very heavy search while considering the Akoray/Nkoray 106 purchase.

Cheers - Ozzie
 

sparkysko

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I am using 3435s. However I noticed while twisting the battery that my tube is slightly oval rather than round. I did the 'rolling on hard table' trick and it makes it less severe. The battery can fall out under its own weight and it doesn't feel like it'll damage the heatshrink now. Nowhere near as tight as in a Ultrafire C3 or something.
 

old4570

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The Other Akoray !

With so much interest in Akoray , Im surprised no one has taken any interest in the AK-16 .. Programmable 3 mode - CR123A - 14500 - 1xAA capable Light .

I saw this over at KD and for some time ho-humed about it , then finally gave in and ordered one .. Its taken a while to get .

Ive recently taken to multi battery lights , and with so many EDC's not running on primaries I thought this one might make a nice addition to my collection .

I only just got it in the post today : And am just playing with it for now ...

More later :










Some pictures till I get some performance figures up :

Performance :

Ok lets jump straight to the 14500/CR123A = just over 10,000 lux in my lightbox wich is around 200Lumen ..

AA's
Cheap Dry Cell = 2000Lux or around 40Lumen
Alkaline's = 4600Lux to 5000Lux 90-100Lumen
Rechargeable's = 4600 to 4800Lux or around 95Lumen

Measuring current is not easy but ill give it a go ...

14500/CR123A = 1.16A
Rechargeable AA = 1A
Alkaline AA = 1.15A
Primary CR123A 3v = 2.5A = around 6500Lux

Build quality is typical Akoray .. Program mode , I need to get used to this , but currently have it set to 3 different light levels ...
Its not dark yet , but ill take a beamshot on high ...
Cree is a little ringy against a white wall , but as usual I expect it to be fine outdoors ...
+ I think I have the ability to swap heads with my 6 mode KD Q3 ..[ Looks like an Akoray build ]

Anyhow , id call this one a keeper , I'm not selling it ...

From KD :

PDC AK-16 CREE Q5 3-Mode Flashlight (1*16340/1*14500) SKU: S006734
$23.27 Shipped


Product Name: Aluminum Alloy Flashlight
Material: Aviation Aluminum Alloy
Radiant: CREE LED
Batteries: Alkaline battery, Ni-MH battery, Li-ion battery
Working Voltage: DC 0.7-4.5V

Functions:

Adjustable light: Modes adjustable light,
and the brightness of each mode can be made by the user personally,
or to be flash (includes alarm, 1-15 times/second fast strobes and SOS,
and you can randomly choose any fast strobes in 1-15 times/second)

Battery protection: the product can identify Alkaline battery, Ni-MH battery,
Li-ion battery, and also has over discharge protection for Ni-MH battery and Li-ion battery.
But for the disposable cell, it can be used in unprotected mode till the discharge completed.

Note: the battery can't be reversed for a long time, because it will be damaged.
Operation introduction:

1) Turn on, and press the switch 3 times lightly (transfer between protected battery and unprotected battery). Flash 1 time, it will be unprotected battery mode; Flash 2 times, it will be protected battery mode.

2) In any condition, press the switch 5 times lightly to "setting", functions: from low to high, to alarm, to 1 time/second slow strobe, to 15 times/second fast strobe, to SOS, then cycle again. After enter "setting", fast strobe 1 time, then enter to be the first mode setting (the second mode, strobe 2 times; the third mode, strobe 3 times), wait 3 seconds, cycle and show the above brightness and functions. If turn off>1 second, it will memory the present mode. 4 seconds later, turn on, it will directly enter to the next mode setting. If do it over 5 seconds, it can't enter to the next mode setting. In the setting processing, press the switch 1 time lightly, it will skip directly to the next mode setting.
Note:
1) Use rechargeable battery, please do not use battery protected mode.
2) Use disposable battery, please do not use battery unprotected mode.

Introduction

Introduction

1. Description

Emittor Type=CREE XR-E Q5

Reflector = OP Aluminum

Drop-in LED Circuit=Buck Voltage Regulated

Springs = Steel Silver Coated

Modes = Low /High/Strobe PROGRAMMABLE

Swith Type:=Tactic Click Reverse Swith

Finish Type=Harden Type II

Construction=Aluminum

Lumen/Runtime=230lumen/120minutes

LED Tint=WC

Lens Material=Glass

2.Dimensions:

Length: (9.6cm) Weight:(50.0g) Head Dia.:(2.1cm)

3.Regulations:

Battery Type:1*16340/1*14500 Battery + AA

Voltage input range"=(3.7V~4.2V) [ Actually 0.7-4.5v ]

Voltage & Current (DC Power Supply)=3.7V~770mA,4.2V~610mA,

4.Highlights:

Waterproof & shockproof=YES

O-rings location=Lens, LED heatsink joint,tail cap

BeamType=Medium

Focusing=Fixed

Glued/potted=No

 
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Hrvoje

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KD Viewfinder

This flashlight looks identical to the Ultrafire WF-008 recoil thrower, that means the building quality is excellent. But, this one is 18650 battery only, and has 3 mode driver (high, low and of course strobe). I don't know what led is inside, but description on the KD said 130 lumen, so I guess it is probably Cree P4. Current draw from protected 18650 Trustfire 2400 mAh (voltage 4 V) is 0.6 A on high, 0.08 A on low and 0.3 A on strobe. I will try to replace the original driver with 2 mode 1 A 7135 based driver to see is there any brightness and throw difference. Putting some R2 inside would be also nice, but that would be difficult task. However, for $20 it is a lot of bang for the bucks.

Hrvoje

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xcnick

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Re: The Other Akoray !

With so much interest in Akoray , Im surprised no one has taken any interest in the AK-16 ..

I spoke of it in the Akoray thread. The best thing I did was make it work with a 17500. The Fenix diffuser and filters fit perfectly.
 
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