Best HID Lights

[Riptide]

I have a couple different questions. But first off, I like light. I travel enough at night around here that I want as much light as possible going down the highway. I've had a couple near miss's with moose and several that could have been bad, but thanks to the lights I was able to see them well in advance. Being up here in Northern Canada, there's lots of animals, and little traffic.

I'm currently running four 4" Rugged Ridge HIDs (euro beam), three 5.5" Eagle Eye HIDs (spot beam) and two 8.5" Vision X HIDs (driving beam). All are 35w.

I don't mind this setup, but I'm getting a new jeep in a bit, and want to try something slightly different. I stayed away from the LF lights before due to the external ballast, (concerned about convenience and durability of the ballast vs the elements). However as I still haven't found my prefect setup, I'd be willing to try this.

I've had some LF 170's in the past and really like the ability to adjust the light (either with filters or the mag style adjustment). However I want more than a 35w light. The Vision X is the most I've spent on an individual light ($250 each). From my reading the larger the light, the easier it is to make the prefect reflector. And while the Vision X light isn't bad... I want more.

Which leads me to my first question. If I bought the LF lights (either several 170s or a couple 240s) could I put a after market 50w (or higher) ballast and bulb without damaging the reflector/housing/etc? LF makes a 50w 240 but it's around $650 per light. I'm pretty sure I can do better than that...

Second question is I'd hate to take the loss on the Vision X lights (which really aren't that bad - getting light out past 500yrds), but how hard would it be to take them apart and upgrade the ballast and light to a 50w? Has anyone heard of someone doing this?

Lastly, I've seen this with a couple different lights, where after a couple years the light output seems to be significantly reduced. I've tried keeping a blackout cover on the lights, and this seems to help. But on my old LF lights, I didn't do this (kept clear covers on all year), and after 18 mths - 2 years there was huge difference in how far the light would project. Does the sun deteriorate the reflectors or something? As I find myself spending more and more on lights, what's the best way to preserve them?

 

[Riptide]

88 views and not one comment? On any part of it?

 

[Arcus Diabolus]

I don't know much about HIDs but if its a battle against the elements how about strapping a Surefire Hellfighter to your jeep, or two. Hope this helps.

 

[Hilldweller]

Riptide,
I wouldn't concentrate on switching to 50W ballasts.
Rather, I'd look at the capsules that you've been getting with the Chinese lights.
As I understand it, the RR, HIDx, and Eagle Eyes all come with 6000K bulbs ---- the bulbs themselves are limiting your performance.
As long as the ballasts and ignighters are working, swap the capsules to 4000K (or 4300 or whatever they have in that range) and you'll notice an instant improvement in light.

As for Lightforce, I don't think that you'd have any reason to use them unless you're breaking things like crazy now. Their primary advantage is their durability.

 

[Riptide]

Riptide,
As for Lightforce, I don't think that you'd have any reason to use them unless you're breaking things like crazy now. Their primary advantage is their durability.

I'm actually thinking of the ability to customize the light/beam pattern (mag light style) and the removable filters. And the ability (from what I've read) to easily adapt the halogen light to an HID one.

Why is it the yellower light for the improvement? (the Vision X HIDs use something lower, and looks more like a halogen light - color wise)

Is it just getting a higher quality bulb, or something else?

I wonder what sort of heat the 35w bulbs put out vs the 50/70w ones.

 

[LiveForNight]

There are people that mod lights to make them more powerful but I have not seen the results personally. Check out the link:

http://www.clubtitan.org/forums/showthread.php?p=756826

Seems like a lot of work just to save a few dollars and in the end have a light that was not engineered for abuse.

BTW: I have found a surefire way to extend the life of my expensive 70w KC Hilites. It's absolutely foolproof........I don't turn them on unless I really need them.

 

[-Virgil-]

You have to decide whether you want to spend a bunch of time and money fiddling around with toys (Lightfarce, Rugged Ridge, Eagle Eye, KC, and other Chinese-made junk) and toy accessories (50w ballasts, colored plastic "conversion" filters, etc.)…or do you want to buy real lights made by a real engineering company (Hella, Bosch, Cibie…IPF if you choose carefully), install them properly and not have to mess with them again, and see well whenever and wherever you need to?

Lightforce = Lightfarce; see previous discussions here, here, here, and here. You may like playing with "conversion" filters and that kind of thing, but they don't do what they're claimed to do, plain and simple.

And finally (maybe should've put this first) picking lights by wattage is the wrong way to do it. Wattage is the measure of how much electricity the lamp uses, not how much light it puts out. Even if you look at only one kind of bulb (say, a D2S HID bulb) operated on one kind of ballast (say, a legitimate 35w item), there is a huge range of efficiency in the optics of different lamps. You will do far better with two good lamps running legitimate 35w ballasts and properly-made bulbs than with four, six, or eight toy lights running 50w ballasts and off-spec bulbs.

And you don't mention what model Jeep you're getting, but it's a pretty good bet its headlights will warrant some attention; Chrysler doesn't usually put lights on their vehicles that are better than they absolutely have to be for legal compliance.

 

[Riptide]

You have to decide whether you want to spend a bunch of time and money fiddling around with toys (Lightfarce, Rugged Ridge, Eagle Eye, KC, and other Chinese-made junk) and toy accessories (50w ballasts, colored plastic "conversion" filters, etc.)…or do you want to buy real lights made by a real engineering company (Hella, Bosch, Cibie…IPF if you choose carefully), install them properly and not have to mess with them again, and see well whenever and wherever you need to?

Lightforce = Lightfarce; see previous discussions here, here, here, and here. You may like playing with "conversion" filters and that kind of thing, but they don't do what they're claimed to do, plain and simple.

I'm running a JK. Yes the headlights need to be upgraded.

I've used some 170 LF before (halogens) and they were not that bad. The only reason I didn't look at them this time (the first time I did lights), is they didn't have an internal ballast and I didn't want to deal with an external one.

As for the filters and whatnot, the only ones I'd be using would be the combo ones (yellow or clear), which do work (to an extent). And from what I've seen on some youtube video's the HIDs can do the same.

It wouldn't bother me to spend 1k on some decent lights... as long as I knew they would do exactly what I want them to do. But am leery of spending that much, only to be disappointed.

 

[-Virgil-]

I'm running a JK. Yes the headlights need to be upgraded.

You may want to put some of your budget towards the best possible headlamps that can be installed on a JK; that would be the ValeoSylvania XE7 HID units (not the XE7R).

It wouldn't bother me to spend 1k on some decent lights... as long as I knew they would do exactly what I want them to do. But am leery of spending that much, only to be disappointed.

That's wise...so what exactly do you want them to do?

 

[Riptide]

Am looking for a light that will reach out past 500 yards - ideally 600/700yrds with a wide beam. And I'm talking about what I can actually see, not what some device will measure light at.

My Vision X will hit around 500, but the beam pattern isn't wide enough. Stuffing a 50w light and ballast in there won't help the beam pattern but it might get a bit more distance.

 

[LiveForNight]

You have to decide whether you want to spend a bunch of time and money fiddling around with toys (Lightfarce, Rugged Ridge, Eagle Eye, KC, and other Chinese-made junk) and toy accessories (50w ballasts, colored plastic "conversion" filters, etc.)…or do you want to buy real lights made by a real engineering company (Hella, Bosch, Cibie…IPF if you choose carefully), install them properly and not have to mess with them again, and see well whenever and wherever you need to?

KC was started by Pete Brown in his garage in Saugus, California! I guess that's a part of China that I didn't learn about in history class. LOL

They have been in business since the 1970's and have a 23-year warranty! http://www.kchilites.com/warranty/

You need to regroup a little. China also manufactured many of my favorate flashlights and make some good products. Likewise some real crap is manfactured in the US.

Edit: Ask any question you want of Pete Brown's stepson Michael DeHaas on his Myspace site. http://www.myspace.com/231002787 He now owns KC and will usually answer back pretty quick.

 

[Alaric Darconville]

KC was started by Pete Brown in his garage in Saugus, California! I guess that's a part of China that I didn't learn about in history class. LOL

Just because they were founded in a certain location is not absolute proof that their products are made exclusively there. Apple computer was started in Cupertino, California-- the bulk of their products are not made in the USA. Ford was started in America and has factories in Canada and Mexico. Then there's Toyota, who has factories in Canada and the US.

The length of the warranty also doesn't mean that the lights will perform safely, either. Sure, they'll come on, they won't be falling off the car, but if their beam patterns aren't good the day they're made, they'll be just as bad 23 years later.

 

[LiveForNight]

Pose that response to Michael DeHaas on Facebook and see what his answer is! He might be interested in your design ideas. He appears at many of the Lucas Oil Off Road races in Arizona and Nevada.

 

[-Virgil-]

KC was started by Pete Brown in his garage in Saugus, California

Yes...many years ago. And now all of their lights are the same Chinese trash also available under a dozen other brand names.

a 23-year warranty

Yes. It's quite a good sales gimmick with zero influence or indication of the lamps' performance or durability. It's cheap to toss another set of cost-almost-nothing Chinese lamps at an unhappy customer, relative to the good job a 23-year warranty does of gulling customers ignorant of lighting performance into buying the lamps thus covered. Marketing psychology works!

Ask any question you want of Pete Brown's stepson Michael DeHaas

Why would I want to go ask for self-interested propaganda? I am more confident in the conclusions I reach on my own test bench and test vehicles, thanks.

 

[-Virgil-]

Pose that response to Michael DeHaas on Facebook and see what his answer is! He might be interested in your design ideas. He appears at many of the Lucas Oil Off Road races in Arizona and Nevada.

OK, you want to idolize Michael DeHaas for some reason, go buy his lights -- then there is no need to be asking advice from the people here who know what we're talking about (and who have no particular interest in seeing you buy or not-buy this or that brand of light).

As for the Lucas Oil races...what does that demonstrate except that he keeps company with sellers of other dubious products that don't do what is claimed?

 

[LiveForNight]

You have to decide whether you want to spend a bunch of time and money fiddling around with toys (Lightfarce, Rugged Ridge, Eagle Eye, KC, and other Chinese-made junk) and toy accessories (50w ballasts, colored plastic "conversion" filters, etc.)…or do you want to buy real lights made by a real engineering company (Hella, Bosch, Cibie…IPF if you choose carefully), install them properly and not have to mess with them again, and see well whenever and wherever you need to?

I notice you didn't rebut this: "China also manufactured many of my favorate flashlights and make some good products. Likewise some real crap is manfactured in the US."

Hey, you want to be prejudiced against Chinese manufacturers, have fun. Try buying a vehicle without Chinese steel!

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Let's talk about a product's advantages or disadvantages, and not generalize about the quality or lack of quality of a products country of origin. Enough said.

Bill

 

[secarob]

I notice you didn't rebut this: "China also manufactured many of my favorate flashlights and make some good products. Likewise some real crap is manfactured in the US."

Hey, you want to be prejudiced against Chinese manufacturers, have fun. Try buying a vehicle without Chinese steel!

All the while he's typing on his cheap Chinese keyboard and clicking his cheap Chinese mouse

 

[LiveForNight]

Let's talk about a product's advantages or disadvantages, and not generalize about the quality or lack of quality of a products country of origin. Enough said.

Bill

Yes sir, I agree.

 

[-Virgil-]

I notice you didn't rebut this: "China also manufactured many of my favorate flashlights and make some good products. Likewise some real crap is manfactured in the US."

I figured I'd give you a chance to decide to let that not-very-germane line of conversation die. We can dispense with the thing about crap made in the US because that's true but irrelevant; nobody's making the kinds of lights we're talking about in the US. There is a multifaceted automotive lighting industry in China. Some reasonably good products come from there; they are without exception produced by factories owned and staffed by Western companies. The indigenous Chinese industry produces only junk not even close to meeting the standards required for export to countries where quality matters.

In accordance with our moderators requirement to avoid generalizing, here is a very specific collection of topical links you may want to see:
link, link, link, link, link, link, link, link, link and link, linkety linkety link.

Hey, you want to be prejudiced against Chinese manufacturers

No, I don't want to be prejudiced against anyone or anything. That's a difficult task, because prejudice is a part of human nature. Fortunately, there's no such difficulty here because prejudice means an adverse opinion or leaning formed without just grounds or before sufficient knowledge, and the links above amply demonstrate just grounds and sufficient knowledge to default to an adverse opinion of Chinese auto parts and accessories.