Best LED flashlight for night Photography ?

gslabbert5119

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
4
Greetings all, I am new to the forum and need some assistance with a led flashlight that I can use for night photography.

What I require is something that is around 800 lumens or brighter, is compact for international travel, and can be focused either sharp or wide.
The wide is the key though, when it is wide the led needs to throw a smooth even light without any hotspots.

I would need the flashlight to light up (via a light painting technique) a satellite dish on the top of Mauna Kea, and those things are pretty large.

someone suggested a Suprabeam Q7xr, that size would be perfect, but after reading comments on this site it seems that there are better quality and less expensive options.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Gavin
 

hiuintahs

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Messages
1,840
Location
Utah
I would think you'd be after a light that is on the softer white side of the color spectrum such as something in the 5000k or lower on the color temperature scale. I'd probably stay away from the cool white lights. The only light that I can think of is a Fenix PD32UE. That had a fairly wide spot (more floody than most lights this size) and was neutral white. I think finding something that also has the ability to focus is going to further limit the options. But lets see if anyone else has something to add.
 

StorminMatt

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
2,263
Location
Norcal
Although many don't like the P60 format, it can come in handy in situations whrre you want something that's not readily available. And given the cost of P60 modules and hosts, it can be an economical way to go as well. Anyway, for photography, high CRI is THE way to go. And there are a few modules that might work well here. One is the Sportac Triple Nichia 219. This module produces around 600-700 lumens (which is plenty) at 5000K with perhaps the highest CRI (92 CRI) available in a flashlight. And since it is a triple emitter module, it produces a very even, floody light. The module itself is around $35. The only real downfall of this particular module is that it really requires two lithium ion cells to give you good regulation, which means a longer light and more care. It WILL work on one cell if you don't mind a light that dims with use.

Another drop-in that I've had my eyes on lately is one from International Outdoors that goes by the name 'CUXM2'. This drop-in is actually available with a range of emitters. But the one that stands out most to me is the high CRI warm white XP-L emitter (80 CRI). The color temperature isn't listed. But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 3500-4000K. So it's not as neutral as the Sportac. But if you want a warmer light, this could work well. You can also get an orange peel reflector for a floodier light or a smooth reflector for a throwier light. And you can get other tints if high CRI is not as important. In particular, if you luck out, an XM-L2 T6 neutral emitter can actually give a VERY good tint. Best of all, the drop-in is only $16.71 - $1.99 more if you want the high CRI XP-L. All work with 1xLi-Ion.

finally, some people just LIKE the look of an incandescent. If you like the yellow/orange tint of an incanescent, get the high CRI XM-L2 P60 from Nailbender. Color temperature is 3000K. So you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference between this emitter and an incandescent. It is a little pricier at $40. But Nailbender makes some good P60s. And like the P60 from International Outdoors, you can customize your P60 with an orange peel or smooth reflector and different mode choices. It works on 1xLi-Ion.

As for the host, any one of the multitude of Solarforce L2 variants would work. One of the REALLY nice things about them is that they are fairly cheap - under $20 for a host. You can also get various options for them, such as a 1x18650 extender if you want to use more than one cell (like for the Sportac). You can also get a single piece 2xLi-Ion tube. And another thing worth mentioning here is that they sell a MT-G2 head if you want LOTS of light with a pretty good tint. This will, of course, REQUIRE 2xLi-Ion (or more).
 

gslabbert5119

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
4
I would think you'd be after a light that is on the softer white side of the color spectrum such as something in the 5000k or lower on the color temperature scale. I'd probably stay away from the cool white lights. The only light that I can think of is a Fenix PD32UE. That had a fairly wide spot (more floody than most lights this size) and was neutral white. I think finding something that also has the ability to focus is going to further limit the options. But lets see if anyone else has something to add.

Thanks hiuintahs, and typically I would say that you are correct that I would be more interested in a daylight balanced light, however as long as I know what the WB is of the flash in Kelvin I can easily enough balance the lighting correctly. Besides most of my night work is setup in the 3200 - 3800k range. 5500 to too warm for star trails and asto work that typically require light painting.

Gavin
 

gslabbert5119

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
4
Many Thanks StorminMatt, I will look into your suggestions, and carry 2 batteries if they are no too large is not an issue. i already carry somewhere in the range of 75lbs of camera gear , so another lb or 2 will not make that much differnce.. Bulk is more of the issue but I will check your suggestions out. Being WB to 5500 is good and bad as I typically work my night stuff in the 3200 - 3800 K range, but i can adjust the WB pretty easily and the quality of the flood and the throw of the flood is the important part.

Thanks again
Gavin

Although many don't like the P60 format, it can come in handy in situations whrre you want something that's not readily available. And given the cost of P60 modules and hosts, it can be an economical way to go as well. Anyway, for photography, high CRI is THE way to go. And there are a few modules that might work well here. One is the Sportac Triple Nichia 219. This module produces around 600-700 lumens (which is plenty) at 5000K with perhaps the highest CRI (92 CRI) available in a flashlight. And since it is a triple emitter module, it produces a very even, floody light. The module itself is around $35. The only real downfall of this particular module is that it really requires two lithium ion cells to give you good regulation, which means a longer light and more care. It WILL work on one cell if you don't mind a light that dims with use.

Another drop-in that I've had my eyes on lately is one from International Outdoors that goes by the name 'CUXM2'. This drop-in is actually available with a range of emitters. But the one that stands out most to me is the high CRI warm white XP-L emitter (80 CRI). The color temperature isn't listed. But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 3500-4000K. So it's not as neutral as the Sportac. But if you want a warmer light, this could work well. You can also get an orange peel reflector for a floodier light or a smooth reflector for a throwier light. And you can get other tints if high CRI is not as important. In particular, if you luck out, an XM-L2 T6 neutral emitter can actually give a VERY good tint. Best of all, the drop-in is only $16.71 - $1.99 more if you want the high CRI XP-L. All work with 1xLi-Ion.

finally, some people just LIKE the look of an incandescent. If you like the yellow/orange tint of an incanescent, get the high CRI XM-L2 P60 from Nailbender. Color temperature is 3000K. So you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference between this emitter and an incandescent. It is a little pricier at $40. But Nailbender makes some good P60s. And like the P60 from International Outdoors, you can customize your P60 with an orange peel or smooth reflector and different mode choices. It works on 1xLi-Ion.

As for the host, any one of the multitude of Solarforce L2 variants would work. One of the REALLY nice things about them is that they are fairly cheap - under $20 for a host. You can also get various options for them, such as a 1x18650 extender if you want to use more than one cell (like for the Sportac). You can also get a single piece 2xLi-Ion tube. And another thing worth mentioning here is that they sell a MT-G2 head if you want LOTS of light with a pretty good tint. This will, of course, REQUIRE 2xLi-Ion (or more).
 

gslabbert5119

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
4
Damn StorminMatt, and here I thought a flashlight was simply a flashlight that to a few batteries, man do I need some educating. Things have certainly changed, I guess in the last few years. Now I am going to have to educate myslef re: LED flashlights and the various modules if that is the way that I end up going.

Can you provide me with a typical module format that would suit my needs as you understand them.

Much appreciated.

Gavin
 

StorminMatt

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
2,263
Location
Norcal
Can you provide me with a typical module format that would suit my needs as you understand them.

For night photography, I would recommend the Sportac Triple Nichia and a Solarforce L2 host. Of course, you also need batteries. I feel like this combination is GREAT for night photography. You have lots of bases covered, including good output, high CRI, and low cost (about $50 total).
 

SureAddicted

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 18, 2008
Messages
930
Location
Sydney, Australia
Greetings all, I am new to the forum and need some assistance with a led flashlight that I can use for night photography.

What I require is something that is around 800 lumens or brighter, is compact for international travel, and can be focused either sharp or wide.
The wide is the key though, when it is wide the led needs to throw a smooth even light without any hotspots.

I would need the flashlight to light up (via a light painting technique) a satellite dish on the top of Mauna Kea, and those things are pretty large.

someone suggested a Suprabeam Q7xr, that size would be perfect, but after reading comments on this site it seems that there are better quality and less expensive options.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Gavin

How far does the beam need to travel to illuminate the Satellite dish?
For night photography, your main area of concern would be the beam characteristics, tint doesn't matter as much as it can be tweaked in WB, or set a custom WB profile.
You would most probably want a diffused beam, there aren't many flashlights with a diffused lens, other than the Olight SR Mini. The optics in that light further enhance the beam as it provides a more uniform/floodier type beam.
Other than that, you could just buy a diffuser or DIY for most flashlights.
 

Latest posts

Top