best non rechargable battery for aa zebralight
- Thread starter raggie33
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this_is_nascar
Flashaholic
Why alkaline and risk leakage? If anything, use one of those Energizer Ultimates.
raggie33
*the raggedier*
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- Aug 11, 2003
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ive heard they only leak if there old and depleted. the ultimates are way dimmer which still shocks me
has anyone tried duracell optimums?
they are not alkalines but are "oxyrides"
slightly higher ocv.
but much lower ir.
as for the energizer ultimate being dimmer thats odd. those do well at higher loads in my c9000 tests.
too bad i dont have that light here to put it on my lab supply and track performance vs voltage.
a boost converter should present LESS load at higher voltage.and draw less current at the same regulated output.
they are not alkalines but are "oxyrides"
slightly higher ocv.
but much lower ir.
as for the energizer ultimate being dimmer thats odd. those do well at higher loads in my c9000 tests.
too bad i dont have that light here to put it on my lab supply and track performance vs voltage.
a boost converter should present LESS load at higher voltage.and draw less current at the same regulated output.
ChrisGarrett
Flashlight Enthusiast
Energizer Lithium Ultimates are really the best choice for primaries, as long as the host doesn't go dwanky.
Chris
Chris
likethevegetable
Enlightened
+1 for Energizer Ultimate Lithium. Very light, great cold weather performance. The battery indicator is not accurate at all tho.
You are correct on the battery leakage occurring when depleted.
Lithium batteries typically run at a lower voltage output. I found that I had the best luck with the Duracell Alkaline batteries. It is frustrating when you pay 2-4 times more for batteries and get either lower output or no appreciable gain in life.
A Costco membership can get you a 30-40 pack for $11 - $16, depending on if they are on sale.
The indicator on Zebralights don't work well with lithium primaries (AA or CR123). Only rechargeables.
Donald
Newly Enlightened
You heard wrong on the "only" part. It may be, and probably is correct, that alkaleaks are more likely to leak if old and depleted, and probably especially in the smaller sizes. However, I several years ago, had a new pack of AA Duraleaks from Costco that expired in 2023. Obviously that date has not even arrived yet. I had used a few. Then I noticed they had started leaking in the package. I returned them and have never purchased alkaleaks again. I do have flashlights such as Olights that come with with an AAA or AA Chinese brand alkaline battery. I tend to, but don't always risk using them and replace with an eneloop after that. I intend to again review Project Farm and other reviews (some probably at this site) of batteries as I need more hybrid batteries. I dimly recall reading/seeing good things about a particular version of hybrid batteries from Amazon and from Ikea, but do not have any experience with them. I see a thread here on best AA rechargeable batteries I also want to review.
I have given away several i3T and i5T Olight flashlights with the included alkaleak and keep some around. So I sent an i3T I had over to England with my daughter for a friend of hers she was visiting. It worked right out of the box, which it should not have. The battery had leaked and eaten right through the yellow disk of insulating film it is packed with to prevent activation until it is removed. My weekend project is going to be to go through any NIB flashlights that have an included alkaleak, and remove them, damaging the box as little as possible.
I have had one or two eneloops become suspect. Not sure if it was prior contamination from an alkaleak or the battery leaking very slightly that caused discoloration. No eneloop so far have caused any electronic damage. I just disposed of the suspect batteries.
I plan on reviewing this thread and similar ones to keep my battery choices informed. The most important part to me about any battery is that it does not leak. I have lost more electronics, including flashlights/headlamps/lanterns to leaking batteries, than any other misadventure.
That is really odd. I never would've thought that lithium primaries would produce less light. I mean, it's not much difference, but it is noticeable. Any idea why this is? I mean a brand new Energizer Ultimate lithium AA cell reads at 1.8V and I consider them dead at 1.25V.
So this updates my opinion of lithium primaries:
Pros:
very cold tolerant
zero leakage
lightest weight of any AA/AAA cell out there
most capacity of any AA out there (3000mAh vs 2450mAh for Eneloop Pro vs 1900mAh for regular Eneloop vs 2700mAh for alkaline)
Cons:
expensive
not rechargeable
slightly lower light output
Actually I posted the pics to show that there is NO difference in output between the two batteries. At least that's what my eyes tell me
n2mb_racing
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2020
- Messages
- 52
I run the Vapcell L10 in mine. I use the entire battery on each run I take. I run the light at the highest output, which runs 45 min - 1 hour on high.
I've tested the output, and it is a real 1050 mAh cell, even after more than a year of use.
www.illumn.com
I've tested the output, and it is a real 1050 mAh cell, even after more than a year of use.
14500 Vapcell INR14500 L10 1050mAh 3A High Discharge Flat Top Li-ion Battery
14500 Vapcell INR14500 L10 1050mAh 3A High Discharge Flat Top Li-ion Battery
www.illumn.com
JimIslander
Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2012
- Messages
- 689
I buy Lithium primaries to eliminate the chance of utterly destoying my lights. They also have extremely long shelf life vs. charge. Output is more than enough.
The only Zebralight I ever lost was one my buddy borrowed and filled with an alkaline battery. Couldn't get it out, and it was filled with battery guts.
I would have to see a real test that includes voltage, current flow, and a real lumens measurement to judge actual brightness differences. I can see how it could happen if the light is programmed to ramp down based on voltage. But again, Lithiums are my doomsday batteries. Absolutely no reason to not use rechargeables day to day, even on extended backcountry hikes.
The only Zebralight I ever lost was one my buddy borrowed and filled with an alkaline battery. Couldn't get it out, and it was filled with battery guts.
I would have to see a real test that includes voltage, current flow, and a real lumens measurement to judge actual brightness differences. I can see how it could happen if the light is programmed to ramp down based on voltage. But again, Lithiums are my doomsday batteries. Absolutely no reason to not use rechargeables day to day, even on extended backcountry hikes.
GadgetGeek
Newly Enlightened
This. I've already had one flashlight ruined by alkalines. Eneloop or Energizer Ultimate for me.
terjee
Enlightened
Energizer Lithium, easy choice…
… but for anyone reading this thread, thinking about non-rechargeable due to cost, take a look at IKEA rechargeable "NiMH2" / ready to use batteries. They have an awesome cost/performance.
… but for anyone reading this thread, thinking about non-rechargeable due to cost, take a look at IKEA rechargeable "NiMH2" / ready to use batteries. They have an awesome cost/performance.
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