Best place to get RCR123s

xucchini

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Dec 22, 2006
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Woodland, CA
I want to get some more RCR123s for my Fenix P1D
Also planning to get an Eagle-Tac P10C2 soon so will need a few more batteries.

Any suggestions on where/what to get?
 
dm51- whats the difference in the RC123 and the IMR16340 ? is that the dimension of the 123's? and is this just a performance difference?

i saw on one of the threads here that the numbers indicate the dimensions.


thanks
 
RCR123 and IMR 16340 are the same physical size, but different chemistry.

The numbers work as follows: the first 2 figures are the cell diameter, the next 2 are the length (measurements in millimeters). The last "0" just means it is a cylindrical cell.

The regular RCR123 is a Lithium-Cobalt chemistry, which is what all the commonly used Li-Ion rechargeables are. It has a high capacity, but you can only discharge it safely at a limited current.

The IMR cells are Lithium-Manganese chemistry, which have a lower capacity but can be discharged at higher currents.

You can read about the different Lithium-Ion chemistries in this thread by LuxLuthor.
 
The regular RCR123 cells (Li-cobalt) at 3.7 volts always run the risk of leaks or explosions (either when the cells are deeply charged/discharged, or when the protection circuit malfunctions and fails to protect the cell.). The risk is low (much lower in single cell lights), but it is still a risk, and is dangerous especially in a air-tight flashlight. If the P1D is your EDC, I would seriously think twice about using regular RC123 and carrying the flashlight close to your body. The other thing you will lose is the modes. With regular RC123, you will only get the turbo and strobe modes. Low and high modes will be at turbo level.

For P1D, I wouldn't recommend anything else other than the LiFePo4.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=125353

These are the safe chemistry cells that will not explode when abused and are closer in voltage to primaries (3.2V). Then all your modes (high, turbo, low, strobe and SOS) will work. I have been using my P1D CE Q5 as an EDC for almost a year now with the LifePo4 and they are great batteries. The downside is the capacity. With only like about 500mah, the high mode last about 50 minutes. and turbo probably close to 20 minutes. As for me, it is my EDC, which gets intermittent use throughout the day. I have a set of 4 batteries and simply swap freshly charged ones every few days. Works great!

Dennis
 
from MDs Rechargeable Compatibility chart/guide for popular flashlights!

P1D/(CE), P2D
Battery Size: 1xCR123
Regulation Type: Boost
Recommended Input Voltage Range: 0.9-3V (estimated)
Recommended Rechargeable option: 3V LiFeP04 RCR123
Rechargeable alternatives:
1. 3V regulated LiCo02 RCR123, may provide more runtime
2. protected 3.7V RCR123; will direct drive LED above normal level of operation, could cause overheating and overdrive damage in batches with low Vf emitters. Loss of all low modes.
*All rechargeable options will have substantially reduced runtime compared with CR123 primary.

You are probably better off with primaries or a 3v rechargeable. How often do you go through batteries?
 
Right now I am using orange and white batteries which say:

Powerizer professional for digital camera
3.0V-RCR123A
Rechargable Li-Ion battery
RCR123A 3.0V 680mAh

These seem to recharge fine in the charger I have, and the runtime seems fine (though I have not timed it). I usually change out the battery about once a month or so.

Just want to get more that work the same, or more that will work even better yet still work with my existing charger (I don't remember the make of my charger at the moment, but I'll check when I get home).

Also still planning to get an Eagle-Tac P10C2. Hoping the batteries I use in the P1D will work well in the P10C2. :)
 
Also, if I go on a trip, camping or hiking or whatever I tend to use the light a lot more. So usually just bring a spare charged battery along for the trip.
 
You sound to be in good shape. I don't know where to get the 3.0v rcr's that you have, because I don't have any. I'm sure someone else does, but just hasn't chimed in yet.

I think you want 3.6/3.7 volt rcr's for the eagletac, though.
 
I have a question about batteries too. I have a Surefire 6P LED, and I am receiving 2 Surefire G2 incandecents soon. I would love to stick with the Surefire batteries but they are pretty pricey.

Does it depend on what kind of flashlight you have to determine which cr123a batteries are good for that light? I am a little nervous just buying any brand.

Thanks for the help.
 
Right now I am using orange and white batteries which say:

Powerizer professional for digital camera
3.0V-RCR123A
Rechargable Li-Ion battery
RCR123A 3.0V 680mAh

These seem to recharge fine in the charger I have, and the runtime seems fine (though I have not timed it). I usually change out the battery about once a month or so.

Just want to get more that work the same, or more that will work even better yet still work with my existing charger (I don't remember the make of my charger at the moment, but I'll check when I get home).

Also still planning to get an Eagle-Tac P10C2. Hoping the batteries I use in the P1D will work well in the P10C2. :)

The industry does a lousy job of keeping consumer informed about what they own and what it does and how it works. Unfortunately, all of this is very relevant for ANYone who has dipped their toes into the realm of loose cell li-ion rechargeable options.

The thread was opened asking about where to buy RCR123s.

The problem is, as it stands right now, there are no less than 4 cell types available in this size that are rechargeable, and there are 3 different charging requirements within those 4 types of cells.

-------------

The powerizers you have, are 3.7V (LiCo) cells that contain a diode at the top of the cell to buck down the output voltage to about 3.2V working. (roughly). They are not protected cells, and can be over-discharged and damaged severely by a light like P1D that can stay running bright all the way down to about 1V input. Recharging a cell that has been repeatedly discharged below ~3V loaded, is a recipe for disaster. So first I must ask: Have you ever run these cells down to the point that you could see dimming? If so: How many times? Do you own a multi-meter that you can check the voltage of the cells with?

The charger included with these types of cells will have a charge termination around 4.4V. Using the charger included with these cells on any other type of li-ion cell, is a good way to either totally ruin a cell, or cause an explosion. If you are intended on getting 3.7V cells for a different flashlight in the future. You MUST buy an appropriate charger for those cells.

You can get more of those same cells from batteryspace (dot com). And you can use them on the charger you already own.

--------------

LiFePO4 cells are not really 3.0V cells, they are technically 3.2V cells, like the powerizer cells above, they contain no internal protection against over-discharge, however, this chemistry is safe (does not generate it's own oxygen during thermal runaway), and is just more abuse tolerant all around. These are what I recommend for use in P1D and P2D flashlights, even though runtime totally blows chunks. These are safer and more reliable IMO than the voltage regulated style of 3.0V RCR123. They require a charger with a charge termination around 3.6-3.8V, so again, a special charger.

----------------

regular 3.7V (LiCo) RCR123s are available in both protected and unprotected, you will want protected cells, and I recommend AW brand for best fit and quality for use in lights that run at lower drain rates (most LED lights). These cells have been used by many CPFers with good results. Requires a charger with charge termination at 4.20V.

-----------------

IMR16340 is also a 3.7V cell, with a charge termination of 4.20V like the regular 3.7V cell. They are based on a LiMn chemistry and are safer than LiCo and can handle more demanding drain rates (good for higher power incan setups). These cells are not protected, so it is up to the user to terminate the discharge before over-discharge occurs, these cells will suffer from reduced cycle life and performance if repeatedly over-discharged or abused, but are not likely to become dangerous.

----

Eric
 
I have a question about batteries too. I have a Surefire 6P LED, and I am receiving 2 Surefire G2 incandecents soon. I would love to stick with the Surefire batteries but they are pretty pricey.

Does it depend on what kind of flashlight you have to determine which cr123a batteries are good for that light? I am a little nervous just buying any brand.

Thanks for the help.

Yes, every lithium/li-ion flashlight needs to be looked at as an individual situation who's rechargeable options must be taken into consideration.

There are 2 links at the top of my sig line, if you are willing to take the time to read them, you will probably find most of your answers there for what can be done in your G2s and 6P. The new IMR16340 cells from AW have opened up a few new high power incan setups for those lights that are not listed in those links (yet, but will be soon). The 6P is a better candidate for high power LED drop-ins, and the G2s are better candidates for incan options or lower power LED drop-ins. Both have plenty of potential, but generally speaking, if someone is PLANNING on buying a light that's *like* a 6P or G2 but they are expressing interest in using li-ion cells, I point them right straight away from surefire and straight to one of the other manufactures who are making similar size/design lights that are already bored to accept 18mm diameter li-ion cells. There are also after-market bodies for SF lights that will support 18mm parts, the 6P can also be bored by someone who knows what they are doing.

Eric
 
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