bezel ring for A2, loose tailcap threads?

[dkk73]

Hello All,

I am new to this forum and also flashlight addiction (but I am clearly prone to it).

After buying a Y/G A2, I found a used white A2 on eBay for my wife (see? rationalization; a sure sign of addiction ).
It seems that the tailcap is a bit loose, and this results in some "bounce" in switch activation.

From other reading, it sounds as if the o-ring is the most likely culprit:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2705877&postcount=4
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2785052&postcount=30

So I will order some from Lighthound, in addition to some NyoGel.

Two questions:
(1) How likely is thread wear to be an underlying problem?
(2) I can't find a replacement bezel o-ring. How often should this be replaced, and is there any "standard" source? (vs. digging around in the hardware store for something that might "look right").

Thanks for any advice!
Cheers,
David

 

[greenLED]

:welcom: dkk.

I'm not sure I understand what's going on with your A2. Your comment about o-rings further confuses me.

If the o-rings are missing on the A2 you bought (tailcap *and* bezel?), call SureFire and they'll most likely send you replacements for free.

There is just a little "play" with the A2 tailcap, but I wouln't call it "loose" in any way, shape or form.

The threads on the A2 are quite beefy - thread wear shouldn't be an issue at all.

Hope that helps.

 

[effulgentOne]

For further clarification, by bezel o-ring, I assume you mean the o-ring on the body that seals the head? Most people don't actually ever remove the bezel.

 

[dkk73]

:welcom: dkk.

I'm not sure I understand what's going on with your A2. Your comment about o-rings further confuses me.
...

Hi greenLED,

Thanks for the welcome. What I mean is that the tailcap rocks back and forth (perpendicular to the long axis of the flashlight) a bit. When I first pulled the light out of the envelope, it felt loose compared to my new A2. As I depressed the tailcap switch, there was momentary flicker, and a tiny interval of no light between the LED and incandescent stage.

I wondered if the tailcap threads were loose. After some reading, I figured that, as you say, that's unlikely to happen. There is some indication that O-ring wear will allow some play in this manner (as the O-rings add some rigidity and bulk to the "outer diameter" of the main flashlight body).

Probably not a big deal, as you say.

 

[dkk73]

For further clarification, by bezel o-ring, I assume you mean the o-ring on the body that seals the head? Most people don't actually ever remove the bezel.

Yes, correct. I figure that some O-ring wear is due to motion, but much is due to oxidation and aging. Thus, I thought that, if I am going to replace the tailcap O-ring, I might as well replace the bezel O-ring as well.

Agree regarding little need to remove the bezel. I've already been bitten by the curiousity-maybe-mod bug and have looked. In fairness, I was also doing this to troubleshoot the cause of the momentary flicker I mentioned above. Interestingly, the flicker is now gone, so maybe I've snugged something up along the way.

 

[effulgentOne]

Yes, correct. I figure that some O-ring wear is due to motion, but much is due to oxidation and aging. Thus, I thought that, if I am going to replace the tailcap O-ring, I might as well replace the bezel O-ring as well.

Agree regarding little need to remove the bezel. I've already been bitten by the curiousity-maybe-mod bug and have looked. In fairness, I was also doing this to troubleshoot the cause of the momentary flicker I mentioned above. Interestingly, the flicker is now gone, so maybe I've snugged something up along the way.

Just so we are on the same page, as I understand it the "bezel" is the ring around the end of the light that says "Caution hot surface," while the head is entire assembly, which includes the bulb and LEDs. You have to open the head to change or reposition the bulb, while the bezel is not designed to be user removable - it's glued to the rest of the head.

On my A2, the tailcap does rock a little bit, but almost insignificantly, certainly not problematically. I've also found that the incan is "hesitant" when my batteries are low, and sometimes requires multiple presses to light up to full regulated brightness, but that it's essentially instant with fresh batteries. Is this similar to the flicker you describe?

 

[JNewell]

In fairness, I was also doing this to troubleshoot the cause of the momentary flicker I mentioned above. Interestingly, the flicker is now gone, so maybe I've snugged something up along the way.

In my experience the L1/L2/A2 are more subject than other SF lights to flickering or not lighting up at all if the head/bezel is even slightly loose.

 

[dkk73]

Just so we are on the same page, as I understand it the "bezel" is the ring around the end of the light that says "Caution hot surface," while the head is entire assembly, which includes the bulb and LEDs. You have to open the head to change or reposition the bulb, while the bezel is not designed to be user removable - it's glued to the rest of the head.

On my A2, the tailcap does rock a little bit, but almost insignificantly, certainly not problematically. I've also found that the incan is "hesitant" when my batteries are low, and sometimes requires multiple presses to light up to full regulated brightness, but that it's essentially instant with fresh batteries. Is this similar to the flicker you describe?

(1) Ah, sorry. I stand corrected. I mean the O-ring that is exposed when you unscrew the entire head. Should I replace that as well and is there a source someone can recommend?

(2) That flicker is somewhat different from what you describe in that it is only dependent upon the depth of button press. I figured it had to do with changing the position/pressure on the switching elements as the tailcap rocked slightly. That said, I did not try batteries of different strengths. It does stand to reason that a bit of resistance in the circuit, coupled with low batteries, could result in the same effect on the basis you describe. Plus or minus some contribution to varying pressure from a wobbly tailcap. I will admit I did not control for these factors.

I think what I might try and do is get a new tailcap O-ring, some lube, and also clean the contacts. Then, if I have any problems, I can worry about it then.

Thank you guys (and gals) for your help with this.

 

[dkk73]

In my experience the L1/L2/A2 are more subject than other SF lights to flickering or not lighting up at all if the head/bezel is even slightly loose.

I wonder why. A bit of extra resistance, or close mechanical tolerances? A whole new universe of distraction, in my pocket...

 

[JNewell]

I wonder why. A bit of extra resistance, or close mechanical tolerances? A whole new universe of distraction, in my pocket...

Not sure, never tried to figure out why. Screwing the head down tightly eliminates the problem and I've found that they do not unscrew by themselves in service.

 

[greenLED]

dkk, the A2 is somewhat picky when it comes to resistance. Just make sure all the contacts are always clean and it should work OK.

Regarding the flickering, make sure the clip is fully seated in place, and the head fully tightened. Also, take a peek inside the tailcap. You should see 3 metal tabs (silver) inside it. If you have less, you might need a replacement tailcap.

As far as replacing the o-rings, I'd call SF and ask for replacements.