Bi-Pin Flashlights?

You are right, there is no going back. However, sometimes old folks like nostalgia, and using something from the past reminds them of happier days of their youth, perhaps an outing or reading comics under the covers after lights-out. Whatever reason is unimportant, some people like old ways at times--it doesn't mean that they reject advances. Some may stick with the old stuff, but that's okay in a non-critical use. If a 2D incan enables you to find your pill bottle that rolled under the bed, and that is all you use it for, then it's perfectly adequate for the job. I imagine that the majority of folks on this forum though, have a plethora of flashlights for different purposes, both incan and LED, maybe even some LEP and HID! It's all good! Live and let live, or, if you are a British double-aught agent, live and let die. :crackup:
I agree, and nostalgia is real (and of value) for me too, personally. The real challenges / issues arise when one tries to take something from the present and make it duplicate the past, or vice versa. My incan lights are from the past, and my LED lights are mostly in the present, and it's when one tries to combine the two which requires some real work / effort (although sometimes it's worth it). It's easier to combine those worlds with, say, cars than with flashlights, because that market is much larger.
 
If you know how to "build" a light bulb, you could theoretically build a Yuji/#112 bulb and use it in a Tom Thumb light.

I'd love to see some modern CNC aluminum LED lights styled like those old metal flashlights from the past. If they must have 2+ levels of brightness or strobe etc, make them positions on the slide switch. Full bright should be the first click forward from off. Strobe should the be last click to the rear. Some had a momentary pushbutton in the middle of the slide switch.
 
I'd love to see some modern CNC aluminum LED lights styled like those old metal flashlights from the past. If they must have 2+ levels of brightness or strobe etc, make them positions on the slide switch. Full bright should be the first click forward from off. Strobe should the be last click to the rear. Some had a momentary pushbutton in the middle of the slide switch.
Coleman made or makes one I liked a lot. It's one of those 3aaa numbers but also comes in various battery configurations. It's called batteryguard and uses a slider switch.
What I like is it starts on low about as bright as a vintage 2c does but slide the switch further and "tadah!" let there be bright. It's more aligned for camping and isn't built real sturdy. But it's on the right track. Member @greenpondmike mentioned a while back.
 
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