Bi-pin or MR-16?

SafetyBob

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
766
Location
Yukon, Oklahoma
OK, my emolis are on the way. So is are my Kiu Mag kits. So that means I have power and I have a nice way to use any bulb under the sun.

So I was clicking around some of the places you guys have recommended that you get your Orsram and such bulbs at. I look at some of the MR-16 bulbs.....$1.99 for a 35 watt 12 volt bulb. I think I saw a 50 and 100 for close to the same. So why would I want to really play around with 8 and 10 dollar a piece bi-pin bulbs when I can play with these MR-16's.

OK, I will actually make a M@g85. Everyone has to build one. I got that and will do. Maybe a couple of other bi-pins too. These 50 and 100+ watt 12 volt MR-16s just seem to good to be true. Am I missing something here? What is wrong with the MR-16s that is right with the bi-pins?

Bob E.
 
The problem is the beam your want to achieve. I don't know exactly the kind of MR16 you're looking at, but IIRC most of them are fairly flooded. You could, however, run regular 12V bi-pins that almost every hardware store carries.

Becareful that with those long life halogens designed for space lighting, you'll need some serious overdrive to make them bright, as well as getting a desireble color temp. You should probably run them at 12V, or 5 cells.

I'm running a 6V, 5000 hr bulb. Even at 12 V hot off the charger (probably 11 v-bulb) it seems like the bulb has a lot left.
 
Got it!! I noticed that there was spot, flood, 8 degree spot, and a whole bunch more. Guess for $1.99 or so it can't hurt much, what bulb(s) are you specifically running?

Oh, reflectors. I know I need to get an aluminum reflector and will most likely go with a MOP from fivemega. Please check my math. With the WA01185 I will need the 10.5mm opening and the bigger 50 and 100watt bulbs require the 12.7mm opening?

Have you put in any of your lights the 10 Amp Judco switch that Lux is using?

Bob E.
 
well... that is a great question.... Roy answered it perfectly, I'm only going to agree and add some further comment.

Most MR16s are 12V 2000-6000 hour bulbs, which means you have to come up with ~17-21V at the pack to get anything worthwhile efficiancy wise. these higher voltage requirements really make for large cumbersome mods, or require the use of many smaller cells, which leads to lower energy storage, and lower runtimes.

Another interesting issue, is that if a bulb is designed to run for 4000 hours, then the fill gas is probably optimized to perform at that drive level and have the best lumen maintenance (keeps the envelope clear). When you drive such a bulb hard (like to 10-40 hours life) it is likely to suffer from quickly degrading output.
 
Thanks Mdocod, of course I thought I had found the almost undiscovered country of incans with the MR-16 bulbs. Guess it will be fun to try one or two and will report back here.

Off to get my aluminum reflector and some bulbs. Everthing else here or on the way. I really can't wait for dark and my first lighting of a M@g85!!

Bob E.
 
Those seem like very good options indeed. I don't think they'll work with the emolis though, as 3 cells is not enough and 4 would probably be too much on a 12V, 50hr bulb.

A 10 or 11 cell pack of Elite1700s on the other hand, seems to be perfect on a quadbore/rewrapped 3D.
 
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