Bike Light, Solitaire Replacement, Minimag Upgrades

[tnforever]

Re: Lots of help needed from light experts!

Oh.... the enticement

Which site is this? 4sevens?

Also, I'm a bit confused about the huge range of lights that Fenix has, so many, and they all use 2xAAs... I'm going to have to do more research

I also wanted to buy some lenses for my mags, and I'm still tempted by the minimag multimode, but might wait til they go on clearance (won't happen for a LONG while though) somewhere...

 

[Gunner12]

Re: Lots of help needed from light experts!

The Q5 is a bin of the XR-E model of LEDs. Cree is the company, XR-E is the model, Q5 is one of the many flux bin(output/efficiency) of the model. It is second to the R2 bins.

AA batteries should be 14mm in diameter. The RC-N3 probably has a 16.5 diameter tube in the front to accommodate CR123 batteries and a 14.5 mm diameter tube in the back for AA batteries.

Fenix Naming Scheme:

E = AAA powered
P = CR123 powered
PD = essentially improved designs of the P2D and P3D series. Better tailcap knurling, improved tailcap design with better laynard ring, easier to turn head which is also an anti-roll hexagon shape, lower low, medium, and high, smoother talicap switch. Longer runtime on low, medium, and high.
L = AA or AAA powered
LD = essentially improved designs of the L2D. Better tailcap knurling, improved tailcap design with better laynard ring, easier to turn head which is also an anti-roll hexagon shape, lower low, medium, and high, smoother tailcap switch. Longer runtime on low, medium, and high.
T = CR123 powered with a forward clickie, two mode, tighten for high, loosen for low, uses a Cree XR-E Q5 LED (for now; when they add more models, this might change)

0 = 1 AAA powered, for the E series, 1 5mm LED, currently the Nichia CS, all twisties.
01 = 1 AAA powered, E series, multicolor anodizing, 1 5mm Nichia GS. 1 AAA powered LD series. Cree XR-E Q5 and three modes only, medium-low-high. Reflector is also improved and PWM is faster.
1 = 1 battery, for the E series, 1 Nichia Power LED, for the P series, a twistie. For the T series (T1) a 2 stage forward clickie light powered by 2 CR123 or RCR123 batteries with a clip. Uses a Cree XR-E Q5 LED in a textured reflector. Built to have thicker walls then the E and L series lights.
2 = 2 battery powered or for the P series, 1 CR123 with a clickie.
3 = For the P series, 2 CR123 powered.
10 = TK10 or LD10 --- TK10 an "improved" version of the T1 with a removable grip ring, aluminum bezel, and removable clip. Performance is not changed --- LD10 "improved version of the L1D, Look at LD to see what improved over the L1D.
11 = TK11, an "improved" version of the TK10 and T1 with a smooth reflector and the ability to accept 18650 batteries.
20 = T20 or LD20 or PD20 --- a 2 AA powered light similar to the other T series but has a neutral white LED instead of a cool white one. Has a smooth reflector, a rubber sleeve on the body tube for grip, and a removable clip. --- LD20, "improved" version of the L2D has body knurling. Look at LD to see what changes were made over the L2D --- PD20, "improved" version of the P2D, Look at PD to see what changed.
30 = PD30, "improved" version of the P3D, look at PD to see what changed.

+ = Special stainless steel run, a small run prototype that Fenix sold
P = "Premium" Luxeon I, V2.0 means 2 modes, Luxeon
S = Two mode (tighten for high, loosen for low) Luxeon I, Type II andodizing
T = Two mode (tighten for high, loosen for low) Luxeon III, V2.0 means Rebel 80, twice the output
D = Digital, Multimode
CE = Cree XR-E LED, newer and at least twice as efficient as the Luxeon I/III LEDs. For the same power, it puts out twice or more output
Rebel 80/100 = Luxeon Rebel 80/100 used, usually has a warmer tint
No designation = Luxeon I or III

If there is a thing after the CE, that is to designate the Bin of the Cree XR-E LED used. Q5 means it uses the Cree XR-E Q5 LED. No designation after the CE means it uses the P3 or P4, depending on date of manufacturing.

The Civictor V1 is a 1 AA twistie with Type II anodizing. There was a multimode stainless steel model made.

There was a special Titanium version of the L0D made. It was called the L0D Ti. There was also a Christmas version(red type II anodizing with Christmas decorations) called the L0D SE. There is also a Q4 version. There is was also a stainless steel version of the LD01.

 

[tnforever]

Re: Lots of help needed from light experts!

Thanks for the nomenclature regarding the Fenix lights. Being dirt poor as I am, I'm almost certain I'll wind up getting a RC-N3 Q5, a mag multimode, and maybe a tank in the future. Or maybe I'll wait til next month and get an E01/L2D...

The RC-N3 Q5 and Maglite combined is the same as the L2D basically, but you get two lights of nt bad quality... I really don't know!

So the Q5 is sort of a submodel of the XR-E line of bulbs, like in cars, you have a different trims within the same model?

What's the difference between a L2D CE and L2D Q5? I assume CE is a different LED module.

I've sent a e-mail to shiningbeam to confirm the O-ring sizes

 

[22hornet]

Re: Lots of help needed from light experts!

I do a lot of riding at night and the L2D is my top choice after my custom modded Surefire. The L2D really is that good for riding.

Hello, Carrot,

When riding, you keep your L2D at what setting? turbo, high or medium?

Kind regards,
Joris

 

[Gunner12]

Re: Lots of help needed from light experts!

The L2D-CE and L2D-CE Q5 are idnetical in every way except the LED. The Q5 is a higher flux bin then the P4 or Q2 of the Cree XR-E LED used in both LED lights so the Q5 version would be around 30% brighter. It's not that visible by eye though.

 

[batman]

for your solitare replacement, you've chosen wisely. The E01 is pretty good. I wish I'd gotten the Arc-AAA P GS, but it was too expensive. For 15 bucks the EO1 is a good deal. It's bright enough to find your way out of a burning airplane,read a book/map, or sneak around in places you shouldn't be anyways.

 

[paulr]

The E01 is a good Solitaire replacement in the 1aaa form factor but if you're really on the cheap and you don't use that type of light so often, some 45 cent fauxtons will do almost as well. Heck, PM me your address and I'll send you a couple for nothing. (They are sold in bags of 10 at dealextreme).

I'd stay away from all the m*g stuff. It was good gear 20 years ago but obsolete now, and the company is doing what it can to stifle anyone else from making better lights.

Fenix-store has some nice bike mounts for its AA lights. You can check Bessybennie's reviews of cheap AA lights for what this week's favorites are. I've personally stayed away from them after a few bad experiences. The Fenixes cost somewhat more but are generally better made.

I think if you have flashaholic tendencies, you're better off spending your $60 on one good light that will keep satisfying you, than three cheap ones that you want to replace soon after. Fenix L2D or E20 with bike mount sounds like about the best choice given the requirements you've laid out. This assumes you already have some nimh cells and a charger.

 

[tnforever]

Hey all, I'm back. Happy to say that I've come into a little bit of money (three cheers for Chinese New Year!) and I've so far help back from buying some things I really want...

SO, I now have a bigger budget to spend my money on, and I've revised my requirements a little bit:

1) Still AA, since I have eneloops that are hardly used (just for my camera) and they are easily found for cheap (eneloops and alkalines both at Costco), and they are much better capacity than AAAs.

2) A good beam pattern. Now this is really subjective. I really hope that those with hotspots won't make me focus into that one spot...

3) I'm also curious about what options there are for heat sinking the Lux 3 in the Mag 3D, it'd be cheaper, and from runtime graphs should improve performance drastically. So far all I've found are sinks for stars and other AM modules

4) Where can I get an SMJLED (or cheap) mod for the original minimag? I noticed lambda lights now sports a high output emitter...

5) Is it worth getting the E01 now if I plan on getting an L0D or LD01? The latter ones are so much better (but SO much more expensive!)

I would prefer to get as much as possible from one site, and I'm open to other light suggestions as long as they are AA powered...

Right now on my list are:

E20 (focusable, bright)
L2D (multimode, brighter)
Minimag (multimode, focusable) - I plan on using this as a signal light on dark roads, and it's a good light and value overall
RC-N3 Q5 (bright)

Having a tough time deciding what combination to get that will serve me with good lighting in dark conditions and bright...

E01 (cheap, tough)
L0D (multimode(!), tough, bright)
KD, tank007 (cheap, bright)

Having a tough time here too...tough is most important to me since I carry it with my keys, and they get dropped every so often. Not necessarily bright needed, but want to be seen by others in an emergency)

 

[tnforever]

Oh, I almost forgot, if your offer still stands, Paulr, tell me! I can always use an extra light! and Thanks for the offer!

 

[jamie.91]

im no expert but i am awaiting delivery on a RC-N3

jamie

 

[Gunner12]

The LD01 should work pretty well form a keychain type light. If you want strobe and SOS, go for the L0D-CE Q4. Low mode should last pretty long. But if te keychain light would be for back up and doesn't need to be that bright, go for the E01.

2), most of the lights have spill, which could help you see what is around the hotspit.

3) For the MagLED drop-ins? There are none as far as I know. You cna swap in a current gen LED for more output though.

4) Check here for the SmjLED.

For the larger light, I don't think focusability is very improtant(defocused = ugly beam). L2D/LD20 for modes and compatiability with other bodies(1AA and 1 CR123), Minimag for price(not sure about durability) and romisen for simplicity and forward clickie.

For the Keychain, either the E01 or L0D/LD01. If you want output and multimode, go for the L0D/LD01. If you want long running and lower price, go for the E01.

 

[tnforever]

Pretty much sums up what I had in mind. The LD01/L0D pretty much outperforms the E01 in every respect, aside from a slightly lower runtime on low... but comes at a hefty price...

So many people have said that focusability is not important, and the L2D is a very attractive deal (too bad 4sevens doesn't have the Q5 version in stock), but I guess I will have to find out myself... I need to get a light that strobes, and another that will shoot a constant beam for when I need both... so difficult to make up my mind!

Unfortunate that no one makes a heatsink for the stock magLED... I might put in a rebel in the future.

Again, thanks, if you didn't know already I'm slow to make decisions...