Blew up L2T driver board. What now?

[dapyro]

Hello,

Here comes a sad story.
:mecry:
I was modding my Fenix L2T with a seoul. It seemed succesfull when I got the emitter on the inner part of the L2T, because it fired up when I pushed it on the top of the battery tube with batteries. But when I reassembled the head... Nothing.... I disassembled the head and I smelled burned electronics. The inner part was quite warm. The LED still works, I checked it. The driver board still smells bad.

So I screwed my driver board, what can I do now? I loved my L2t and I like to have a great light in this form factor. I like to use it with two nimh AA batteries (2.0 - 3.0 Volts) Can I buy a 700 ma (or more at a max of 1000 ma) driver board somewhere cheap? Where can I get such a cheap nice driver board for an L2T? Or is it better to buy a L2D for the money?

Thanks,

 

[dapyro]

I found this one:

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=637

Will it work for this purpose?

 

[bfg9000]

L1T/L1S tube and 14500 direct drive might be cheaper/easier than sourcing and fitting a small diameter regulator as efficient as Fenix's, plus it'd be a "fun" light. Then you could get that L2D also as a direct replacement (too bad the L1D tube doesn't fit so you can't just get that and switch tubes).

 

[Krit]

I think circuit might dramage from ground of Seoul Emitter short to circuit housing. Be careful when use seoul. It's ever happen once already with my first mod.

 

[Norm]

The Flupic for fenix lights is an ideal replacement,
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1341098&postcount=1
Norm

 

[dapyro]

Does the flupic driver have this firmware?
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=88623

I am afraid that I also blow the flupic with my "modding skills" I already blew 2 circuit boards with modding about 5 flashlights.

I hope I can get it sold so I can buy an L2D. See the following thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2006700#post2006700

 

[dapyro]

L1T/L1S tube and 14500 direct drive might be cheaper/easier than sourcing and fitting a small diameter regulator as efficient as Fenix's, plus it'd be a "fun" light. Then you could get that L2D also as a direct replacement (too bad the L1D tube doesn't fit so you can't just get that and switch tubes).

Thanks for the idea, it would be a fun light indeed, but I already have a cree cr123 light and a Rexlight 2.0 on its way (I hope). So I don't see any needs/function for this option.

 

[cave dave]

Direct drive the Seoul from 2AA Alkalines or 1.7v Li. 10-20 lumens for a long time.

Or just sell the body and tailcap (people always need both) and send the head to me. I'll pay postage. I'd convert it to direct drive off a Nekomane CR123 body.

 

[CodeOfLight]

Buy an L2D and never look back. The new driver will cost you 2/3 of an L2D anyway.

 

[dapyro]

I did once promise myself that I wouldn't buy lights over 50 dollars, so that is holding me back from buying an L2D.

Is it possible to use the driver of an 1AA light? I tried my L1P /civictor V1 head (modded with a seoul) on my L2T body, and it is an impressive nice and bright light this way. But can the driver handle this voltage for a longer time? I am no electronics expert.

Will it be possible to use the driver of a cheap 5 dollar 1AA light from kaidomain or dealextreme?

edit: I found that people even used the combo with an L1P head on an L2P and with a Cr123:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112025&page=6&pp=30

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=115076