Bright EDC light

[joshconsulting]

So, I'm building myself a nice new flashlight for Christmas. I'm looking for very bright while semi-pocketable. Here's what I have so far (prices include shipping, tax etc.):

----------ALL ORDERED----------
Light:
Body: Black Solarforce *$24.66* L2p |ORDERED 12/15| (u.nu/6sk74 w/ Cashback)
Bezel: L2-B2 SS Crenelation *$8.76* |ORDERED 12/15| (u.nu/7rk74 w/ Cashback)
Drop in: Nailbender 2.5A Driver Regulated 3-mode Hi\Med\Low SST-50 GJ w/ Smooth Reflector *$70.00* |ORDERED 12/14|*(u.nu/6pk74)
Total: *$103.42*

Additions:
Batteries: 2x 18650 AW P18650 - 26 *$34.00* |ORDERED 12/13| (u.nu/2qk74)
Grease: NyoGel 760G 25GM Tube *$13.71* |ORDERED 12/15| (u.nu/9u484)
Thermal Paste: Arctic Silver 5 12g *$14.44* |ORDERED 12/15| (u.nu/9w484 w/ Cashback)
Total: *$62.15*

Grand Total: *$165.57*

Questions\Comments\Advice\Anything appreciated. Thanks for looking.

 

[tundratrader]

That sst-50 wont work on 2 cells. It is a 6.6 Volt max. Unless you just have an extra on your list for backup. Otherwise looks like a good hot setup.

Zach

 

[joshconsulting]

Yea, the second one is for backup. I don't think the L2p even accepts 2x18650. Thanks for pointing it out, though

 

[joshconsulting]

Bumpity bump bump, looking for more comments. I like to feel secure in my purchases

 

[tundratrader]

My only comments are that I like things perfect and surefire bodies are perfect. The fit and finish is unbeatable. I would suggest getting a bored body from electron guru if it was going to be my light. The other thing with the solarforce is that it might be a reverse clicky switch. As a host it is probably fine. I am not into crenelated bezels either. 6p's can also be found on the bay if that is where you are shopping for cheap. The sst-50 works perfect with the 17670 cells. Moddoo also said they were coming out with someone new this week. Malkoff is also rumored to be bringing out some new stuff soon. Might be worth the wait to see what those guys are doing. As far as the SST-50 it is just about perfect as far as I am concerned. Bright as could be plenty of spill and plenty of spot. You cant go wrong with that. DO GET the three stage though. I made the mistake of getting a single stage and it is just to much most of the time. Hope that helps.

Zach

 

[joshconsulting]

My only comments are that I like things perfect and surefire bodies are perfect. The fit and finish is unbeatable. I would suggest getting a bored body from electron guru if it was going to be my light. The other thing with the solarforce is that it might be a reverse clicky switch. As a host it is probably fine. I am not into crenelated bezels either. 6p's can also be found on the bay if that is where you are shopping for cheap. The sst-50 works perfect with the 17670 cells. Moddoo also said they were coming out with someone new this week. Malkoff is also rumored to be bringing out some new stuff soon. Might be worth the wait to see what those guys are doing. As far as the SST-50 it is just about perfect as far as I am concerned. Bright as could be plenty of spill and plenty of spot. You cant go wrong with that. DO GET the three stage though. I made the mistake of getting a single stage and it is just to much most of the time. Hope that helps.

Zach

I'm not sure about the Surefire. I'd be paying $70, 3 times as much, for a HAII lights. Is there anywhere I can get a different clickie for the L2p?

 

[tundratrader]

The different HA coatings are north american standards I believe. I am not saying I dont trust solarforce but I do trust others claiming that their product is what is advertised. People seem to be very happy with these though. I really am not trying to hate on them. The tailcap threading is the same as surefire since it is a knockoff. You will be able to replace the tailcap with a surefire one. I would also be worried about using this tailcap with the sst-50 I am not sure what kind of amps it can withstand. Tailcaps are plentiful on the marketplace.

I am sure it will make a great host. I am just a Surefire snob!! You might check lighthound and see what he has. He might have everything you need to save buying at multiple sites. His shipping is fantastic as well.

Zach

 

[joshconsulting]

Most points touched on here (didn't look at the Wiki, maybe a lot more there)... the key process difference is HA-II is done at "room temp" (roughly 68-72F is ideal) and modest current levels (12 amps per square foot I believe is the average standard number, but don't quote me on that). HA-II and HA-III BOTH grow into the surface, however HA-II is roughly a 1/3 to 2/3 ratio (1/3 in, 2/3 out), so it's not as deep as HA-III which is a 1:1 ratio (1/2 in and half out), and also HA-III allows thicker overall layers, although HA-II can get pretty thick as well if done right.
Related to the above "growth" effects is the pore size, basically either version makes "cells" of aluminum oxide which resemble hollow tubes or a "honeycomb" effect... HA-II has larger pores which allows more colors to be used to color the final product (dyes have different particle dimensions depending on color used, etc). HA-III has smaller pores, which means only the finest particle dyes can be used, which are the green and black basically (there are other types of anodizing where the anodizing process itself makes the material appear either gold, or "shimmering" depending on method, I won't go into that much detail here).
Now onto HA-III, it is done at a much cooler temperature (sub-50 degrees bath temps), and at a MUCH higher current density (30-70 amps per square foot or something like that, it's been awhile since I researched it). It is also done with a much lower concentration of acid (about half of HA-II I believe, which is around 19-23% by volume, so around 8-12% by volume for HA-III). Basically by reducing the acid concentration and temperature, the newly formed oxide layer is attacked much more slowly by the acid, and in conjunction with the much higher current, can penetrate more deeply into the base material and extend out farther as well. But the high current requirements, and the other stricter requirements (each anodizing shop guards their specifics pretty well as each has their own recipe) make this much harder for "DIY" HA-III. You need a very well controlled current source (hitting an "on" switch would likely burn any connections to the part due to the sudden voltage and current spike and bring a quick halt to any effects), typically this process is ramped up, regulated, and monitored for specific "end of process" effects (voltage changes, current changes, etc). Just not easily replicated at home, you could do it for something very small (an aluminum locket or clasp maybe) if you had a 3-amp power supply, but if you even have a 1/2 sq ft surface area (reasonable for a flashlight for instance), you'd need at least 15-30 amps of current, regulated, and the other requirements. Best to find a shop that can toss it in with their other jobs.

From what I've heard, type 3 is considerably better then type 2. Good to know the clickie fits; does that mean I could buy a Brass + McClickey tail from http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=234868, or a Z41 Tailcap and drop it in?

Oh, and thanks a lot for the help. If it seems like I'm being defensive and valuing my opinion over others, it's just my natural instinct to take the other side of an argument to try and figure out which is better.

 

[tundratrader]

Type 3 is more durable no question about that. The difference between a C2 and a 6P finish is considerable. What I was questioning was if the solarforce is indeed type 3.

The electron/moddoo/mcclicky clickies will indeed work. They are stable with whatever dropin you throw in. You can just buy a z41 and upgrade down the road.

I dont know what type of lights you currently own or if this will be your first high end light. But if you are wanting a bright led with big nasty smash somone crenelated bezel. You might want to look at the E2DL as a first light. But again I am biased. Also the sst-50 is only slightly brighter with the cr123 cells. But not enough to outweigh the guilt free lumens with an aw cell.

Zach

 

[joshconsulting]

The product, ebay, and CPF pages (http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=202776) all say type 3, as well as every review I've read. I'm fairly confident that given Jake's reputation, it is indeed type 3.

As for the clickey, does that mean I need to buy a z41 in order to use the mcclicky switch? Is your recommended upgrade?

To be honest, the crenelation is more for looks then smashing - it was either the smooth stainless or the crelenated for ~$3 more, and I like the curved look. And it's always nice to know that it's there if I need it.

This will indeed be my first high-end. I'm going from Minimag Incan->Inova X5->Minimag LED->DX K-106->This

Heat will probably be my worst enemy on high with a regulated 2.5A driver in a small body flashlight, so I guess I'll leave my order for AWs 18650s.

Thanks again for the help,
-Josh

 

[joshconsulting]

Bump. Still one remaining question: Can I drop a McClickie into an L2p tailcap? If so, is the McClickie really worth $20 over the standard clickie?

 

[joshconsulting]

Bump. Anyone? I'm waiting for a response before I pull the trigger, but even if I can drop a McClickie in, I doubt it's worth $20.

 

[joshconsulting]

Updated with grease and thermal paste. Anyone have a convincing argument towards dropping $25 on a McClickie?

 

[joshconsulting]

400 new views, 0 new posts. Last bump before this thread dies a painless death

EDIT: Ordered the SST-50 dropin.